Fall Events Nearly Complete

photo: pont des arts

With a bit of fall weather on the Pont des Arts.

And With Bonus Out-of-Town Stuff

Paris:- Saturday, 29. September 2001:- Writing this while listening to a guy shouting 'Figaro, Figaro' on the radio reminds me of how many times I have to write 'Paris' while doing this column. Now he's just done it again. 'Figaro, Figaro, Fig-AR-ooOOHhhh!'

I know you are going to say that sometimes I get to write 'Versailles' instead, or maybe 'Bois de Boulogne,' or 'Auvers-sur-Oise.' But mostly it is 'Paris' after 'Paris,' week after blinking week.

To prepare you in advance, in case you are not already sitting down, this is a warning to look out for 'Paris' being substituted by Fountainebleau and Manhattan in this issue. Geographically, Fountainebleau is within this magazine's scope because I think it is in the Ile-de-France, while Manhattan is a bit further away.



Jeu de Rois, Roi des Jeux - merely presents an exhibition about the pre-tennis game of Jeu de Paume, without associating it with Henri IV; Leonardo or Joséphine, like many other things at Fountainebleau. On view from Tuesday, 3. October until Monday, 7. January. Except Tuesdays, open from 9:30 to 17:00. Take a SNCF train from Gare de Lyon to Fountainebleau-Avon, where you'll find a bus to take you the rest of the way to the Château. There is a combo ticket including transport and entry to the exhibition. In Fountainebleau. InfoTel.: 01 60 71 50 70.

Image Par Image - shows off everything you wanted to know about animated films - how they are made, including the latest digital imaging techniques. Illustrated with films dating from 1888 to 2001. Hands-on demos are also possible for visitors. Until 28. January 2002. Closed Tuesdays, open from 10:00 to 18:00 weekdays and from 14:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. At the Abbaye de Maubuisson, Rue Richard de Tour, at Saint-Ouen-l'Aumône. Acess via SNCF train from Saint-Lazare or Gare du Nord, direction Pontoise. InfoTel.: 01 34 64 36 10.

'Brighton Beach Scumbags' - is the title of a funny theatre piece by Steven Berkoff, a Brit born in Stepney, which is less funny. It is put on by 'Dear Conjunction' and it is about xenophobia, homophobia, crude lovers of beer, bad junk food, worse newspapers, and Brighton in UK. Sound like fun? From Wednesday, 3. October until Friday, 9. November, on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday at 19:00, and in English in order to be inoffensive. At the Sudden Théâtre, 14-bis. Rue Sainte-Isaure, Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Joffrin. InfoTel.: 01 42 62 35 00.

International Dance Festival - will be taking place from Tuesday, 2. October until Saturday, 20. October. Featured troupes will be the Alvin Alley American Dance Theatre, the ballet of the Prague National Theatre and the Tokyo Ballet. All to be at the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 08 40.

Arnold Böcklin - exhibition to be held from Tuesday, 3. October until 15. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

La Comédie Humaine - Balzac's opus, in its 1840 'Edition Furne' was a deluxe edition with a popular price, which launched modern publishing techniques. At the time the trick was to price the work low enough to discourage counterfeits and reading rooms, yet high enough return a profit to bookshops and the author. From Tuesday, 3. October until Sunday, 6. January 2002. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Crossing Through Life - for the second consecutive year, Noël Pasquierposter: expo, french consulate new york, noel pasquier and his mainly blue paintings turn up on view at the General Consulate of France, in Manhattan. Until Wednesday, 31. October, from Monday to Friday, from 9:00 to 13:00.At the Consulat Général de France, 934. Fifth Avenue, New York City. Métro: MTA line 6, at 77th Street.

Image: ©Noël Pasquier

Hans Namuth and Philippe Halsman - Namuth was art director of Harper's Bazaar, plus did 500 portraits of Jackson Pollock and other famous people. Unless it's a typo, Halsman's photos are also on view. Starting Friday, 5. October and continuing until 6. January 2002. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Lieu-commun. Superposition - originally conceived for the Institut Français of Bremen, seven contemporary artists lend their works to fit the space in the Atelier here. From Friday, 5. October until Wednesday, 10. October. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Artistes à la Bastille - performances, poetry, music, and open doors of artist's ateliers, are the program for the coming weekend from Friday, 5. October until Sunday, in the area mostly east of the Bastille. Included are the Cour Damoye and the Viaduc des Arts. For complete information, the centre of the action is the Maison du Faubourg at 28. Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine, Paris 12. Métros: Bastille, Ledru-Rollin, Voltaire, Charonne and Faidherbe-Chaligny. InfoTel.: 01 44 73 83 53.

Montmartre - Vendanges - last year the Butte's own vineyard produced aposter: vignes, montmartre 'Cuvée Lapin Agile,' and this year may even be better. Find out on Saturday, 6. October when Montmartre has its annual wine fête and costume parade, which starts at the Mairie at 14:00 and is expected to arrive at the Rue des Saules about 16:00, more or less. Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Jofferin or Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

Montmartre's vineyard.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - a long and important program of opera, theatre and dance is included within this festival, which is dedicated to Merce Cunningham. Also to be featured is a new installation by Jenny Holzer, on view at the Salpêtrière from 20. September until 4. November. From Monday, 17. September until Friday, 21. December, when winter starts. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00. Also see the Festival d'Automne's Web site.

Festival Ile-de-France - for six weeks, the eight departments surrounding Paris have their autumn festival too, this year with European themes. Beginning in September and continuing until Sunday, 14. October. For more info try the Ile-de-France Web site or InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums and include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Until Sunday, 7. October. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75. After the current exhibition, this museum will close until 2004 for renovations.

Territories - will be an exhibition demonstrating the crossroads between art, informationposter: expo, l'or des rois scythes, grand palais and the news, as interpreted artistically. From Tuesday, 9. October until 30. December; except Mondays, from 13:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 74.

Raphaël - Grâce et Beauté - Casanova said nobody did human figures better and he knew what he was talking about. Raphaël Sanzio and 80 of his paintings will turn up in the Senat's little gallery located in a Medicis park, for an extended stay after a 20-year absence from Paris. Beginning Wednesday, 10. October and continuing until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

FIAC 2001 - if you are going to have 200 modern art exhibitions at once you will need a big space for it. The art galleries taking part in this year's show have been limited to 160, enabling about 30 percent of them to be first-time exhibitors. From Wednesday, 10. October until Monday, 15. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. No InfoTel., but try the FIAC's Web site for more info.

Photo Exhibitions - featuring photographers André Martin, Alain Bublex, Alain Maccheroni and Michel Butor, from Wednesday, 10. October until Sunday, 11. November. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Art & Essai - will be shown during 'Paris Capitale du Cinéma, from Wednesday, 10. October until Tuesday, 16. October. Location not yet announced.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level, at a time of change and danger. See these tendencies from Thursday, 11. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. To be open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00, in the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

Les Sports - as sculpted by Bouchard, for the 1924 Olympics foreseen for Paris. Beginning on Wednesday, 10. October and continuing until 13. March 2002. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

17th Festival Paris 13 - from Monday, 15. October until Wednesday, 31. October. Info from 8. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. InfoTel.: 01 45 80 18 62.

Fête de la Science - it is the 10th year of this popularization of science, and it is also the 100th anniversary of the Nobel Prizes. This year's France-wide 'fête' also emphasizes European collaboration across the spectrum of the sciences. Datesposter: expo, image par image, abbaye maubuisson are Monday, 15. October until Sunday, 21. October. For details, see France's research and the education Web sites, as well as the site of thePalais de la Découverte.

Traversées (New French Wave) - France's artists have a 'new energy' which will be on show at this exhibition, also featuring architecture, music and literature. From Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Arts de la Jongle - more 'nouveau cirque' features several units such as Jongle, Lili and Non Nova. From Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 18. November. Various days and times. At the Espace Chapiteaux, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Mix Move - new music meets new technologies for three days, from Friday, 19. October until Sunday, 21. October. At the Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 00 33.

L'Orient de Saladin - is an exhibition about the life and times of the Crusades - which have no relationship to our times. Starting on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until 10. March 2002. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Figure de Passion - will be an exhibition featuring Baroque painting and music. Beginning on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until Sunday, 20. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Cité de la Musique, at the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavaletposter: thtr gennevilliers's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings of Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. From Wednesday, 24. October until 20. January 2002. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Kannibals et Vahinés - how we looked at the south seas, as seen through popular literature from the end of the 18th century until now. With comics, cinema, travel magazines - from Jules Verne to Tintin. Starting on Wednesday, 24. October, until 18. February 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00..

Le Plus Belles Robes du Cinéma - come from the collection of the Cinémathèque Française, and many have never been exhibited before. Illustrated with sketches, photos and film extracts. From Wednesday, 24. October until 24. February 2002. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. Pavillon des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, 101. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

La Juif Errant - an exhibition around the legend, within other legends, of the 'Wandering Jew.' From Wednesday, 24. October until 24. February 2002. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

Les Défis du Vivant - is constituted by a series of exhibtions, divided into three grand themes, concerning the identity of man and the effects of industry, politics, social and ethical issues. From Wednesday, 24. October until 1. May 2002. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 19:00 on Sundays, closed on Mondays. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Rencontres 2001 - seems to be a basket of dance, music, theatre, exhibitions and 'multimedia,' lasting from Wednesday 24. October until Sunday, 11. November. See the Cultures Urbaines Web site for details. In the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 001 40 03 75 75.

L'Atelier de Gilbert Boyer - is an installation based on a text by Zadkine and a voyage to Canada - Gilbert Boyer from Quebec explores the ties between public and private spaces. From Thursday, 25. October until 27. January 2002. From Tuesdayposter: expo, memoire engloutie, brunei to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione - only says 'Trapèze' but I think you'll know what it means. Beginning on Saturday, 27. October and continuing until 27. January. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Friday and 14:00 and 17:00 on Wednesday and Saturday, with 14:00 and 20:30 for Sundays. No shows on Monday and Thursday, except during school holidays when the show must go on. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris11. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 28 81.

International Cinema - holds a meeting or festival from Wednesday, 31. October until Sunday, 11. November. Check on times for screenings from Tuesday to Sunday, which are usually from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Malraux et la Modernité - for the centennial of his birth, André Malraux is honored for his half-century or artistic endeavors and as a 'visionary of culture.' From Monday, 12. November until 31. March 2002. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Sous le Soleil de Mithra - may be an exhibition of sculptures inspired or done by Picasso - most likely at Mithra - beginning on Wednesday, 28. November and continuing until 4. March 2002. From 9:30 to 18:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition to begin on Tuesday, 25. September and continue until 25. February 2002. Coming to the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

L'Or des Rois Scythes - this exhibition will fill up the Grand Palais until Thursday, 31. December. Beginningposter: thtr de la cite, saison 2001,02 on Thursday, 11. October, also see De Gaudi à Miro, until Monday, 14. January 2002. Reservations required for morning visits until 13:00; come as you are afterwards. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Dubuffet's - centennial means a major retrospective for this painter. On view until the end of the year. From 11:00 to 21:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Sculpture Biannual - is the 8th and it is 'European' in scope with 84 pieces. Continuing until Sunday, 14. October, daily from 10:00 to 20:00, and probably outside as well as free. In the Jardin des Plantes, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu or Gare d'Austerlitz. InfoTel.: 01 42 78 99 91.

Musée d'Art Moderne - Dan Graham is featured until Sunday, 14. October. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Maillol Peintre - is an exhibition of 60 of the painter's works, from the period of 'Nabi' to the '40s. Until Saturday, 20. October; from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

La Mode et l'Enfant - 'mode' did exist for kids, for at least three centuries before our own, and it is on display, including costumes for royal kids. Until Sunday, 18. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Mode - Galleria, 10. Avenue Pierre-1st-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 88 00.

Les Neuf Enceintes de Paris - each phase of Paris has its own wall, rampart, barrier or today's Perifreak! This exhibition shows them all, all at once, and from now until Sunday, 18. November; from 10:00 to 17:00 - all at the Musée de l'Armée, Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varennes or Latour-Maubourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Jenny Holzer - after the projections of texts around Paris were postponed, now the exhibition, until Sunday, 4. November - in the Chapelle Saint-Louis de la Salpêtrière, 47. Boulevard de l'Hôpital, Paris 13. Métro: Saint-Marcel. Free entry. This is all within the Festival d'Automne program. Details at 156. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Babel TV - Patrick Mimran will be at the Orangerie de Bagatelle until Monday, 15. October, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. Whatever else it is besides a 'major event,' see Babel TV when you've got time to visit the Orangerie de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

François et Nicolas de Poilly - contributed to Paris reputation, beginning in 1630, as the capital of European engraving. In addition to a 100 of prints, views ofposter: portes ouvertes, ateliers 14th Paris at the beginning of Louis XIV's reign. Until Thursday, 11. October. Daily from 10:45 to 17:45, at the Mairie of the 5th - Centre Cultural du Panthéon, 11. Rue de Mirbel, Paris 5. Métro: Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Patrimoine Disparu - from the time of Clovis until the end of the industrial revolution all sorts of important monuments - châteaux and jardins - have been disappearing. It's a wonder that there is anything left to look at. Madame de Pompadour's Bellevue at Meudon may be long gone, but a wisp of drawings remain. On view until Sunday, 16. December. Closed on Tuesdays. To be at the Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

"Moi Zénobie, Reine de Palmyre" - the cultural centre of the Panthéon has arranged this exhibition to tell us about the reign of Zénobie in the third century in Egypt. From now until Sunday, 16. December, from Monday to Saturday, from 10:45 to 17:45. On Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:40. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Aux Frontières de l'Art Brut - continues a show begun two years ago with the works of seven others artists, operating between 'art brut' and 'art naive.' Also see 'Noir sur Blanc' which presents eight other artists, working without colors. Until Sunday, 6. January 2002. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.:01 42 58 72 89.

Savignac - one of the best poster designers in the last half the last century, Raymond Savignac had his first displayed in 1933. This exhibition runs until Saturday, 12. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.:01 42 78 14 60.

Lettonie, Latvija - is an exhibition from the collection of the National Museum of History of Latvia. The occasion is the 800th anniversary of the founding of Riga. Until Sunday, 20. January. Except for Tuesdays and holidays, from 9:15 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 44 05 72 00.

Un Art Populaire - is an exhibition presenting some strange, some wonderful, 'popular' art with 150 works by 50 artists from all continents. Until Sunday, 4. November; from 12:00 to 20:00 daily except Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 50.

"Mille Sabords!" - features Tintin, Haddock, the dog and the other characters from the ever-lasting comic book series by Hergé. Until Monday, 10. December; from 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. It's the Captain Haddock connection that put this into the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

Jouer la Lumière! - features threads, textiles, lace - all of which changes with light and one's viewpoint. Recommended by Metropole's club members. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00; on Wednesdays until 21:00. Until Monday, 31. December. At the Musée de la Mode, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

The Louvre - is a huge place, somewhat like a 'hypermarché' of a museum. In addition to the tens of thousands of exhibits on permanent display, there are also special exhibitions. One on now is called 'Le Quartier du Musée du Louvre, XVIIe Siècle,' which continues until 31. December. Also see 'La Peinture Comme Crime' from Thursday, 18. October until 14. January 2002. From 9:00 to 18:00 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. The Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 57 60.

Gestations - photographer Muriel Toulemonda was invited to Budapest for two months, to study horses, the Danube's waters and Budapest's contradictions. The results will be on display until Sunday, 18. November. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00. Free entry. At the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00.

Helen Levitt - for a long time known only to insiders for her 'Street Photography,' this exhibition shows photos of immigrants, from the '60s to the '90s. Until Monday, 19. November. Except Tuesdays, hours are from 12:00 to 19:00. At the Centre National de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile or George V. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - the Cata combs are open again, with a new photo exhibition continuing until February 2002. Note - the 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Photographies Hongroises - 'from the romantic to the avant-garde,' features 100 photos rarely seen outside Hungary from the 1880-1925 period - from Budapest's Hungarian Museum of Photography, selected by Kàroly Kincses, with Anne Cartier-Bresson and Catherine de Bourgoing. This important exhibition continues until Sunday, 28. October. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Panorama of Hungarian Photographers - without details, this appears to be another fresh-air exhibition, on view until sometime in October. To be found in the garden of the Palais-Royal, 1. Place du Palais-Royal, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Forum des Images - features films about films, the cinéma about the cinéma, until Sunday, 28. October. Otherwise, screenings of Paris' film collection in mini-cinemas from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images, Porte Sainte-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

The Cinémathèque Française operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Notre Dame de Paris - Victor Hugo's really big 'Paris' show is back in town, again, I think. Isn't this a re-run or a re-make? Whichever it is, playing daily except Mondays, until the end of December. Usually at 20:30, but 15:00 and 20:30 on Saturdays and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre Mogador, 25. Rue de Mogador, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01 53 32 32 00.

Irma La Douce - this is the Alexandre Buffort version of the musical comedy, with extra entertainment by the performers and musicians in the theatre's bar. Starting on Wednesday, 10. October and continuing until Sunday, 6. January 2002. Times are possibly at 20:00 and 15:00 on Sundays with the pause day of Monday. At the Opéra Comique, 1. Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Le Marchand de Venice - is by Willy Shakespeare, who was smarter by far, than we are today. Odd dates until December, but usually at 20:30 or 14:00. In the Salle Richelieu at the Comédie Française, 2. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 58 15 15.

Opéras - have resumed in Paris at their locations in the Palais Garnier and at the Place de la Bastille. Current and comming productions include Rigoletto, Verdi's 'Attila' and Benjamin Britten's 'Billy Budd.' For ballet, check the Web site for both, or phone InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68, which is a toll number.

Leclerc et Ses Hommes - Crossed Destinies - the victor of Koufra, liberator of Paris and Strasbourg, did it all with a wide variety men from all stations in life, who contributed to his and their own destinies. Presented with a background of comics from 1948-49, this exhibition continues until Sunday, 20. January 2002. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Objectif Mars - is an exhibition of the history of Earth's 'sister' planet,' as seen - or imagined - from Earth. Until Thursday, 6. January, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. Closed Monday. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Decoding Hair - or, 'Le Cheveu se Décode' is an exhibition about hair, which is more fascinating than you may think, regardless of it being short, long, blond or green. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 6. January 2002. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Nouveau Cirque - the circus renews itself and even experiments, with the 'Scènes de Cirque.' Continues until Saturday, 13. October. From Wednesday to Saturday, at 20:30. At the Cabaret Sauvage, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

250 Years of Ads - from the 18th century to the present, see the permanent collection of the Musée de la Publicité. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00, until 21:00 on Wednesdays, and 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends. Musée de la Publicité, at 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Jardin Botanique - is Paris' 'show' garden, featuring its ordinary, its rare and its exceptional plant-life, such as a rare tree from Easter Island. Daily from 9:30 to 19:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 43 28 47 63.

Antique Métro Rides - because of the métro's 100th anniversary last year, the RATP has decided to re-re-run the oldposter: reunion des musees nationaux 2001, 02 red and green 'Sprague' wagons dating from the '30s. The line chosen for this is the six, between Kléber and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Brief photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. Trains leave from the Kléber station at 14:30 and 16:30. These trains will be running one more Sundays only - on the 7. October. Reservations are necessary. InfoTel.: 01 48 04 22 65.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles, plus five other moblie locations. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77, which is necessary to call for the guided tours.

En Route Pour la Cirque - an exhibition of yesterday's and today's circus, for both little kids and big adults - in this 'Year of the Circus' lasting until April 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00; on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air until the end of the year but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day or not. If so, first lift-off at 9:00, until dark. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard or Javel. Liftoff info at InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Paris' Big Wheel - presents Paris views from another high place, which is called Concorde. Meant to come down at the end of 2000, the concession has been extended until Monday, 7. January 2002. so there are a couple of days left for your ride. From 11:00 to 00:30 Place de la Concorde, Métro Concorde.

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