Christmas Starts Early

photo: fall leaves, jardin des plantes, friday

The was sun everywhere in Paris last week - especially in the Jardin des Plantes.

On Account of the 'Year of the Circus'

Paris:- Saturday, 13. October 2001:- Halloween gear is beginning to show up in shop windows and there are a few posters for tricky parties around. But I think Christmas may be more important, so its first items for this year appear below at the end of 'Coming Events.'

This is also the 'Year of the Circus' in Paris, which has not really had a lot of fanfare. As near as I can make out, no less than eight or nine will be performing from November to about the end of December, and another three start in December and continue into January, with more starting in January and continuing into February. Don't miss seeing one of them.



Paris Aime le Cirque - is the allover name given to the first half of the 'Year of Circus Arts,' which features a large program - to be followed in March 2002 by part two. The item, above, just ending, is part of this. A huge program becomes bigger in October, to saturate the season of Noël. For additional details check out the Web site of the magazine, 'Cirques Aujourd'hui.'

Fête de la Science - it is the 10th year of this popularization of science, and it is also the 100th anniversary of the Nobel Prizes. This year's France-wide 'fête' also emphasizes European collaboration across the spectrum of the sciences. Beginningphoto: sculpt, mon oncle, hommage a jacques tati, ©melanie quentin now, this 'fête' continues until Sunday, 21. October. For details, see France's research and the education Web sites, as well as the site of thePalais de la Découverte.

'Mon oncle, hommage à Jacques Tati,' ©Melanie Quentin

August Strindberg - has been subtitled 'Painter and Photographer' for this exhibition which continues until Sunday, 27. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. The temporary entry to this museum is on the Quai Anatole France. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

La Nouvelle Athènes - many think the Second Empire period of the 19th century represented the 'Belle Epoque' but forget the preceding intimate and literary period that associated Balzac, Dumas, Baudelaire, Chopin and Georges Sand, with the 'July Monarchy,' all within a small area in the 9th arrondissement's 'Nouvelle Athènes.' Paintings, sculpture and photographs from the period are on view. From Thursday, 18. October to Sunday, 2. December, from 12:00 to 18:00, at the Mairie of the 9th, 6. Rue Drouot, Paris 9. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. From Friday, 7. December until 10. February 2002, from 13:00 to 19:00, at the Fondation Taylor, 1. Rue La Bruyère, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Free entry at both locations.

17th Festival Paris 13 - from Monday, 15. October until Wednesday, 31. October. Info from 8. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. InfoTel.: 01 45 80 18 62.

Traversées (New French Wave) - France's artists have a 'new energy' which will be on show at this exhibition, also featuring architecture, music and literature. From Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Arts de la Jongle - more 'nouveau cirque' features several units such as Jongle, Lili and Non Nova. From Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 18. November. Various days and times. At the Espace Chapiteaux, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Mix Move - new music meets new technologies for three days, from Friday, 19. October until Sunday, 21. October. At the Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 00 33.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - a long and important program of opera, theatre and dance is included within this festival, which is dedicated to Merce Cunningham. Also to be featured is a new installation by Jenny Holzer, on view at the Salpêtrière until 4. November. The rest, until Friday, 21. December, when winter starts. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00. Also see the Festival d'Automne's Web site.

Maillol Peintre - is an exhibition of 60 of the painter's works, from the period of 'Nabi' to the '40s. Until Saturday, 20. October; from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

International Dance Festival - will be taking place until Saturday, 20. October. Featured troupes will be the Alvin Alley American Dance Theatre, the ballet of the Prague National Theatre and the Tokyo Ballet. All to be at the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 08 40.

L'Orient de Saladin - or 'Au Temps des Ayyoubides,' is an exhibition about the life and times of the Crusades, which are unrelated to our times. Starting on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until 10. March 2002. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Arnold Böcklin - in an exhibition to be held from Tuesday, 23. October - not 3. October as announced - until 15. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Figure de Passion - will be an exhibition featuring Baroque painting and music. Beginning on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until Sunday, 20. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Atphoto: scuplt, ©niki de saint phalle the Cité de la Musique, at the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Scuplture, ©Niki de Saint Phalle

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavalet's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings of Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. From Wednesday, 24. October until 20. January 2002. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Kannibals et Vahinés - how we looked at the south seas, as seen through popular literature from the end of the 18th century until now. With comics, cinema, travel magazines - from Jules Verne to Tintin. Starting on Wednesday, 24. October, until 18. February 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00..

Le Plus Belles Robes du Cinéma - come from the collection of the Cinémathèque Française, and many have never been exhibited before. Illustrated with sketches, photos and film extracts. Some very big designer names are shown here. From Wednesday, 24. October until 24. February 2002. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. Pavillon des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, 101. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

La Juif Errant - an exhibition around the legend, within other legends, of the 'Wandering Jew.' From Wednesday, 24. October until 24. February 2002. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

Les Défis du Vivant - is constituted by a series of exhibtions, divided into three grand themes, concerning the identity of man and the effects of industry, politics, social and ethical issues. From Wednesday, 24. October until 1. May 2002. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 19:00 on Sundays, closed on Mondays. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Rencontres 2001 - seems to be a basket of dance, music, theatre, exhibitions and 'multimedia,' lasting from Wednesday 24. October until Sunday, 11. November. See the Cultures Urbaines Web site for details. In the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 001 40 03 75 75.

L'Atelier de Gilbert Boyer - is an installation based on a text by Zadkine and a voyage to Canada - Gilbert Boyer from Quebec explores the ties between public and private spaces. From Thursday, 25. October until 27. January 2002. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione - says 'Trapèze' - with a look back at the film, some of which was shot at the Cirque d'Hiver. Beginning on Saturday, 27. October and continuing until 27. January. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Friday and 14:00 and 17:00 on Wednesday and Saturday, with 14:00 and 20:30 for Sundays. No shows on Monday and Thursday, except during school holidays when the show must go on. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris11. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 28 81.

International Cinema - holds a meeting or festival from Wednesday, 31. October until Sunday, 11. November. Check on times for screenings from Tuesday to Sunday, which are usually from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Carrousel du Louvre - hosts the treat of the Salon Européen du Chocolat, from Wednesday, 31. October to Sunday, 4. November. The following weekend sees the Salon du Patrimonie Culturel take its place with an emphasis on military objects. From Saturday, 8. November to Sunday, 11. November. The Salon Paris Photo follows, from Thursday, 15. November to Sunday, 18. November. Generally, hours are from 10:00 to 20:00 daily. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoil, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre.

Malraux et la Modernité - for the centennial of his birth, André Malraux is honored for his half-century or artistic endeavors and as a 'visionary of culture.' From Monday, 12. November until 31. March 2002. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

King or Queen for a Day... - features the collection of Michelle Muller's 'fèves' - haricots? - beans?? - dishes,poster: le roi lear, thtr la tempete games, Parisian monuments, comics, animals - and crowns! - all very decorative, and wih old documents. I can't figure this out. From Wednesday, 14. November unti 1. February 2002. At the Hôtel Ambassador, 16. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 01 44 83 40 40.

Sous le Soleil de Mithra - may be an exhibition of sculptures inspired or done by Picasso - most likely concerning heads of bulls - beginning on Wednesday, 28. November and continuing until 4. March 2002. From 9:30 to 17:30, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Mali-Kow - is an exhibition where you can discover the various realities of Mali, though objects and films from this African country. Beginning on Wednesday, 7. November and continuing until 24. February 2002. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00, in the Pavillon Paul Delouvrier. At the Parc et Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Histoires de Calendriers - is also known as 'De Temps en Temps' and it is an exhibition of the idea of changing time rather than the mechanics of keeping track of it. 200 pieces will be on display, from 2000 years. Staring on Monday, 12 November and continuing until 8. February 2002. Except Tuesdays, open from 12:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Rohan, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Photographs - by Don MacCullin, from Wednesday, 21. November until February 2002. Also see the exhibits by Marie-Laure Decker and Jorge Molder, beginning on the same date and continuing until 20. January. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Africolor - is a multi-site music festival, beginning on Friday, 14. December and continuing until Christmas Day. Info from Africolor, 145. Rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20. InfoTel.: 01 47 97 69 99.

The Group Lhoist Collection - features photos by Roy Arden, Bernd and Hilla Becher, Elliot Erwitt, Rodney Graham, and Josef Koudelka. From Wednesday, 5. December until 11. February 2002. Except Tuesdays, hours are from 12:00 to 19:00. At the Centre National de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile or George V. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Christmas 2001 - seasonal sights start with the Galeries Lafayette's decorated windows, on Saturday, 10. November, almost with Halloween still warm. Then the Avenue Montaigne lights itself up on Thursday, 15. November, followed by the Rue Royal on Thursday, 29. November, or the Champs-Elysées which will be illuminated at November's end or early in December. Whichever, then it is the turn of the Place Vendôme.

Choirs for the season begin at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile on Saturday, 8. December, and the following Friday at the Eglise Saint-Roch. After mid-month, frequency increases, with a Sunday concert at the Théâtre du Châtelet. A Christmas Eve mass will be held in the chapel of Saint-Louis de l'Ecole Militaire. The Grand Choir of the Moussorgsky State Opera from Saint Petersbourg performs nightly from Tuesday, 25. December until Tuesday, 1. January 2002 at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile.

Paris - Barcelona - is subtitled 'From Gaudi to Miro' and features the artistic interaction between the two cities from the 19th century to the middle of the 20th, featuring painting, sculpture, architecture, photography - and Surrealism, of course. Lots of big names. Until Monday, 14. January 2002. Except Tuesdays, openposter: sex volontaire, thtr natione la colline 10:00 to 19:15 and from 10:00 to 21:15 on Wednesdays. Reservations required for morning visits up to 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Cleamenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Raphaël - Grâce et Beauté - Casanova said nobody did human figures better and he knew what he was talking about. Raphaël Sanzio and 80 of his paintings will turn up in the Senat's little gallery located in a Medicis park, for an extended stay after a 20-year absence from Paris. Continues until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level of 'Impressionism.' See these tendencies and Metropole's feature in this issue. Until Sunday, 13. January 2002. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Free entry. In the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition continuing until 25. February 2002. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.


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