A Week of No 'Last Chances'

photo: cirque d'hiver, trapeze, bouglione

The Cirque d'Hiver is not a museum, but an all-
weather circus.

Means a Nearly Complete Program

Paris:- Saturday, 24. November 2001:- There comes a time when it seems wise to say this column is 'long enough.' Far from everything that is going on in Paris is mentioned here - for example, there are all of the permanent exhibits at all of the museums, galleries, bibliothèques and many other places.

The 'Year of the Circus' continues in Paris. No less than eight or nine will be performing from November to about the end of December, and another three start in December and continue into January, with more starting in January and continuing into February. Don't miss seeing some of them.



Le Voleur de Noël - is the Lido's big show for little kids, with lots of spectacular effects normally used for other types of shows in this nightclub. Several dates in December and two in January. Showtimes are usually 14:00 and 16:00. At the Lido de Paris, 116-bis. Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8. Métro: George V. InfoTel.: 01 40 76 56 10.

Le Voyage Souterrain - is taken from a two-month voyage by Olga Tchernicheva on Paris' own métro, within the framework of a Paris-Moscow search for happiness. Until Friday, 4. January, from Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00. In the exhibition spaceposter: morris, tango pasion, thtr champs elysees in the Hôtel d'Albret; which houses the city's Cultural Affairs headquarters. At 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00. No entry charge.

Le Cirque Sur l'Eau - Medrano presents the watery Saint-Petersburg circus, featuring - perhaps - swimming tigers but not Ester Williams. From Saturday, 1. December until Friday, 14. December. Located at 43-45. Rue d'Aubervilliers, Paris 19. Métro: Stalingrad. InfoTel.: 01 45 15 01 01.

Salon du Cheval - horses will invade Paris by filling up four of the big halls at Paris Expo, from Saturday, 1. December until Sunday, 9. December. This salon is choc-full of events, some perhaps unusual in Europe, but including traditional competitions such as the world's championships for Arabian horses, show-jumping, and the 'Horse Wood' trophy. Not including donkeys and ponies, 800 horses will be on view.

The Nuit du Cheval show takes place on Wednesday, 7. and Thursday, 8. December, at 20:30. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00, on Tuesday, 4. December until 22:00. The Salon du Cheval will take place at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Toll InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

Lutèce à Cheval - will be a parade through Paris with 150 horses, starting at 10:00 on Sunday, 2. December at the Porte de Versailles. The route will be along the Rue de Vaugirard, Boulevard Montparnasse, Rue de Rennes, Boulevard Saint-Germain, Pont Sully, Boulevard Henri IV, Bastille, Rue Saint-Antoine, Rue de Rivoli, Pont du Carrousel, Quai Voltaire, Rue des Saints-Pères and then back up Rennes, to follow Rue Lecourbe back to the Porte de Versailles, arriving about 13:00. No-charge show.

Sous le Soleil de Mithra - may be an exhibition of sculptures inspired or done by Picasso - most likely concerning heads of bulls - beginning on Wednesday, 28. November and continuing until 4. March 2002. From 9:30 to 17:30, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Salon Nautique - is otherwise known as the boat show, and is international in scope. Get your feet wet from Saturday, 1. December until Monday, 10. December. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 except for until 23:00 on Thursday, 7. December, and with the close-down at 17:00 on the last day. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 00 51.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - a long and important program of opera, theatre and dance is included within this festival, which is dedicated to Merce Cunningham. All of the rest, until Friday, 21. December, when winter starts. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00. Also see the Festival d'Automne's Web site.

Utopic Parks - At the turn of the last century Paris found itself behind other major cities in the 'park-race,' and this called for all sorts of plans - many of which remained 'plans.' In the last 20 years 150 new gardens have been created, bringing the total of green flecks to 420. For the phantom ones, see this exhibition from Thursday, 6. December until 24. February 2002, at the Maison du Lac in the Parc de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy or Cour St-Emilion. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Jean-Baptiste Farkas - puts on a sort of evolving do-it-yourself show with ordinary objects turned to unordinary purposes. This starts on Friday, 7. December and continues until Sunday, 27. January, from Monday to Saturday, from 13:00 to 19:00. In the Espace d'Art Contemporain, 55. Rue du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Métro: Montparnasse or Edgar Quinet. No entry charge.

Tango Pasion - by 'A Los Amigos,' features choregraphy by Hector Zaraspe with El Sexteto Mayor and Guillermo Galvé as the featured singer. On Wednesday, 19. December, then from Fiday, 21. December until Sunday, 6. January. No shows on 25 December and 1. January. At the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt. InfoTel.: 01 49 52 50 50.

The seasonal sights are on show soon or already here with decorated windows at the Galeries Lafayette, the Bon Marché, Samaritaine and Printemps. The Avenue Montaigne lights up along with the Rue Royal and the Champs-Elysées on Thursday, 29. November. Then it is the turn of the Place Vendôme and the Rue de la Paix on Monday, 3. December. Most lights stay lit until the end of December or until early in January.

Christmas 'Marchés' - take place, beginning at the end of November, at Montparnasse, the Place de la Bourse, the Place de la Nation, the Place Bastille, at Bercy, and at the Place Maurice-Chevallier in Menilmontant. The pedestrian area near the Pompidou Centre will also be a vast marché until Sunday, 23. December.

Crêches - the big one is inside Notre Dame cathedral, beginning on Wednesday, 5. December. Then there will a tour of some - at Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile, Saint-Sévérin and Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis. This tour begins on Wednesday, 26. December and continues until New Year's Day. From 10:00 to 20:00 daily. See the Catholique.Com Web site for details about all of this.

Also see 'Noël la Paix Dans le Monde' - which features 200 crêches from aroundposter: klinger, brahms, mus d'orsay the world, starting on Saturday, 8. December, until Sunday, 6. January, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Paroisse Saint-Joseph Artisan, 214. Rue La Fayette, Paris 10. Métro: Louis-Blanc.

Choirs - for the season begin at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile on Saturday, 8. December, and the following Friday at the Eglise Saint-Roch. After mid-month, frequency increases, with a Sunday concert at the Théâtre du Châtelet. A Christmas Eve mass will be held in the chapel of Saint-Louis de l'Ecole Militaire. The Grand Choir of the Moussorgsky State Opera from Saint Petersburg performs nightly from Tuesday, 25. December until Tuesday, 1. January 2002 at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile.

Christmas Trees - fashion designers turn their talents to decorating Christmas trees and about 80 of these will be on view from Thursday, 20. December until Wednesday, 2. January, from 11:00 to 18:00. At the Espace Pierre Cardin, 1-3. Avenue Gabriel, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 27 35.

Le Mystère de Noël à Notre Dame - is a really big show, an opera in fact, featuring the 'Bonne Nouvelle' of Christmas with digital images. Actually these are based on the works of Rembrandt, Van Eyck and Giotto, with some by Rouault and Chagall. Famous actor's voices tell the story, with subtitles in English. Beginning on Saturday, 1. December and continuing until Sunday, 6. January. Shows every hour from 10:00 to 18:00. In front of Notre Dame, on the Ile de la Cité, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 56 56 44 22. See Catholique.Com's Web site for details about this.

Ice Skating - the Hôtel de Ville's outdoor ice skating rink will be back in the place in front of Paris' main city hall, possibly on Thursday, 6. December. It will be open daily for twirling - from 9:00 to a late 22:00, going by last year's times - and continue until late in February. Skates will be available for rent. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Early 2002 - See Carla Accardi's 'Urgent Painting' at Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne beginning on Monday, 2. January. 'Le Carnaval' shows up at the Maison de Balzac on Tuesday, 15. January. For fashion, see 'Madame Carven' at the Musée Galleria, beginning on Friday, 25. January.

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavalet's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings of Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. Marcel Proust was featured in Metropole earlier this year. From Wednesday, 24. October until Sunday, 20. January 2002. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

La Nouvelle Athènes - many think the Second Empire period of the 19th century represented the 'Belle Epoque' but forget the preceding intimate and literary period that associated Balzac, Dumas, Baudelaire, Chopin and Georges Sand, with the 'July Monarchy,' all within a small area in the 9th arrondissement's 'Nouvelle Athènes.' Paintings, sculpture and photographs from the period are on view. Until Sunday, 2. December, from 12:00 to 18:00, at the Mairie of the 9th, 6. Rue Drouot, Paris 9. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. From Friday, 7. December until 10. February 2002, from 13:00 to 19:00, at the Fondation Taylor, 1. Rue La Bruyère, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Free entry at both locations.

Arnold Böcklin - is featured in an exhibition showing the influence of Italy on this 19th century Swiss painter, usually considered to be 'Germanic.' Also see 'Klinger/Brahms,' featuring for the first time in France, Klinger's 26-metre long 'Brahmsphantasie.' Both artists on show until Sunday,13. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Paris - Barcelona - is subtitled 'From Gaudi to Miro' and features the artistic interaction between the two cities from the 19th century to the middle of the 20th, featuring painting, sculpture, architecture, photography - and Surrealism, ofposter: la nuit du cheval course. Lots of big names. Until Monday, 14. January 2002. Except Tuesdays, open 10:00 to 19:15 and from 10:00 to 21:15 on Wednesdays. Reservations required for morning visits up to 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Cleamenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Raphaël - Grâce et Beauté - Casanova said nobody did human figures better and he knew what he was talking about. Raphaël Sanzio and 80 of his paintings will turn up in the Senat's little gallery located in a Medicis park, for an extended stay after Raphaël's 20-year absence from Paris. Continues until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level of 'Impressionism.' See these tendencies and Metropole's feature in this issue. Until Sunday, 13. January 2002. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Free entry. In the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

L'Orient de Saladin - or 'Au Temps des Ayyoubides,' is an exhibition about the life and times of the Crusades, which are unrelated to our times. Continues until 10. March 2002. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Kannibals et Vahinés - how we looked at the south seas, as seen through popular literature from the end of the 18th century until now. With comics, cinema, travel magazines - from Jules Verne to Tintin. On show until 18. February 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00..

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition continuing until 25. February 2002. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

La Juif Errant - an exhibition around the legend, within other legends, of the 'Wandering Jew.' This continues until 24. February 2002. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

L'Or des Rois Scythes - this big exhibition will fill up the Grand Palais until Thursday, 31. December. Reservations required for morning visits until 13:00; come as you are afterwards. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Dubuffet's - centennial means a major retrospective for this painter. On view until the end of the year. From 11:00 to 21:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Nostalgies Coréennes - features 100 paintings and 27 screens from the 17th to 19th centuries, all from the harmonious collection of Lee U-Fan. Until Monday, 14. January, from 10;00 to 18:00, except on closed Tuesdays. Musée National des Guimet, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Dans la Lumière du Nord - is a retrospective of Bengt Olson's works, with about 60 pieces on show. Many feature northern nature scenes, in their frozen state. This continues until Monday, 14. January, when it may still be winter here. Except Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Mali-Kow - is an exhibition where you can discover the various realities of Mali, though objects and films from this African country. Until 24. February 2002. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00, in the Pavillon Paul Delouvrier. At the Parc et Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Jean Cocteau - 'à Montparnasse, ailleurs et aprés.' Presented by Roger Pic and Pierre Bergé. This continues until 3. February 2002. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Worth a visit just to see this museum belonging to the past. At Le Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Etienne Falconet à Sèvres - is subtitled ' the art to please.' Etienne Falconet was the head of the 'Manufacture' at Sèvres in the period from 1756 to 1766, when everybody in Europe was asking for his pieces - and about 120 of them will be on show. Also see the works by Robert Deblander, done within the last 50 years. Until 4. February 2002. Except Tuesday, open from 10:00 to 17:00. Musée de Céramique, Sèvres, Place de la Manufacture, in Sèvres across the bridge from the métro stop, Pont de Sèvres. InfoTel.: 01 41 14 04 20.

'Revue' - Frédéric Lecomte - from this 'multimedia' artist, the reverse image of chaos, with a deviant order superposed on disorder. Whatever it is, it is not supposed to be boring. This exhibition continues until Friday, 30. November. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 19:00, at the Espace Paul Ricard, 9. Rue Royale, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine.

Lam Métis - Wifedo Lam was born in Cuba in 1902, with roots in Africa and China. He moved toposter: morris, boris kochno, opera garnier Spain and painted there until his involvement with the civil war landed him in a sanatorium near Barcelona, which led to his arrival in Paris in 1938, where he met Picasso for the first time. With WWII he moved with other French artists to Cuba, then to New York. Afterwards he returned to Paris and finally settled in Italy. In one period in the '70s he produced 500 artworks. For this exhibition, see a selection from Wifedo Lam's paintings done between 1938 and 1961. Until Sunday, 20. January 2002. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

August Strindberg - has been subtitled 'Painter and Photographer' for this exhibition which continues until Sunday, 27. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. The temporary entry to this museum is on the Quai Anatole France. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Giorgio Morandi - Dans l'Ecart du Réel - has been assembled by London's Tate Modern and shows 80 works featuring a series from the '50s and '60s. Until Sunday, 6. January. Also see Traversées (New French Wave), featuring France's artists who have 'new energy,' on show here featuring architecture, music and literature. Until Sunday, 13. January 2002. Both at Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Atelier de Gilbert Boyer - is an installation based on a text by Zadkine and a voyage to Canada - Gilbert Boyer from Quebec explores the ties between public and private spaces. Until Sunday, 27. January 2002. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Niki de Saint-Phalle has donated some of her 'objects' to this museum. Executed in the period from 1980 to 1997, some of these are unique pieces. On view from 11:00 to 18:00 weekdays, from 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 21:00 on Wednesdays. At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.


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