One 'Last Chance' One-Night Stand, Once

photo: fall, small paris park

Before the rains came it was still fall.

Plus Many Long-Running Items, Forever

Paris:- Saturday, 1. December 2001:- What seemed wise last week - to say this column is 'long enough' - holds true this week as few expired items get cut, and some more overlooked, bit no less worthy, items get added.

The 'Year of the Circus' continues in Paris. No less than 12 will be performing for most of December and some continue into January, with more starting in January and February, and the whole thing goes until the end of February. Don't miss seeing some of them.



A Midsummer Night's Dream - by Willy Shakespeare, is being performed for one night only by the University of Cambridge European Theatre Group on their European Tour 2001, which has been doing whistle-stop one-night stands for 43 years. They get away with this by adding flamenco and other erotic bits to Shakespeare. All of this takesposter: shakespeare, university cambridge theatre group place - one night only! - at 19:00 on Wednesday, 5. December at the Théâtre Bernard Marie-Koltés, Bâtiment L, at the Université Paris 'X' in Nanterre. Métro: take the RER 'A' in the direction of Saint-German-en-Laye, to Nanterre-Université. No InfoTel, just show up as you are. Tickets are 20 to 50 francs.

It looks more like a midsummer night's delerium - but one chance only.

Les Défis du Vivant - a wide-ranging cascade of exhibitions, debates and conferences inspired by the scientific musings of Joël de Rosnay - on the nature of man and his future in the 21st century. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 19:00 on Sundays, closed on Mondays. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

La Magie de Magritte - featuring 12 of Magritte's works, designed to be educational, with puzzling games for young kids, to show off the life and work of the painter. For kids 4 and up. Until Sunday, 31. March. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. Closed Christmas and New Years days. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Hôpital et Utopies - or 'Demain Sera Meilleur,' is an exhibition featuring the long history of hospitals and the search for their utopic perfection. Until Sunday, 17. March, from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Assistance Publique - Hôpiteaux de Paris, Hôtel de Miramion, 47. Quai de la Tournelle, Paris 5. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 50 05.

Paquebots de Rêves - is an exhibition about luxury liners. The kinds that crossed the Atlantic and all of the world's high seas in high style. Continuing until Saturday, 23. March. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Poste, 34. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 42 79 24 24.

Salon du Cheval - horses will invade Paris by filling up four of the big halls at Paris Expo, until Sunday, 9. December. This salon is choc-full of events, some perhaps unusual in Europe, but including traditional competitions such as the world's championships for Arabian horses, show-jumping, and the 'Horse Wood' trophy. Not including donkeys and ponies, 800 horses will be on view.

The Nuit du Cheval show takes place on Wednesday, 7. and Thursday, 8. December, at 20:30. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00, on Tuesday, 4. December until 22:00. The Salon du Cheval will take place at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Toll InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

Salon Nautique - is otherwise known as the boat show, and is international in scope. Get your feet wet until Monday, 10. December. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 except for until 23:00 on Thursday, 7. December, and with the close-down at 17:00 on the last day. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 00 51.

Jean-Baptiste Farkas - puts on a sort of evolving do-it-yourself show with ordinary objects turned to unordinary purposes. This starts on Friday, 7. December and continues until Sunday, 27. January, from Monday to Saturday, from 13:00 to 19:00. In the Espace d'Art Contemporain, 55. Rue du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Métro: Montparnasse or Edgar Quinet. No entry charge.

MuseumExperts Com/Fr - is a two-sided Web site for museum professionals and forposter: mag, beaux arts, la cuisine the people who go to them. The 'Sitem' part deals with the nuts and bolts behind the displays and the 'Sime' part features up-to-date news about what is going on at the museums. The idea, created by Jean-François Grunfeld, has been put online by France's Ministry of Culture, with the URL of http://www.museumexperts.com.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - a long and important program of opera, theatre and dance is included within this festival, which is dedicated to Merce Cunningham. All of the rest, including Jean Cocteau's 'Antigone,' until Friday, 21. December. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00. Also see the Festival d'Automne's Web site.

"Mille Sabords!" - features Tintin, Haddock, the dog and the other characters from the ever-lasting comic book series by Hergé. It's the Tintin connection that has brought 300,000 to see this, and cause long lines on weekends. Only until Monday, 10. December, from 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. At the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

Patrimoine Disparu - from the time of Clovis until the end of the industrial revolution all sorts of important monuments - châteaux and jardins - have been disappearing. It's a wonder that there is anything left to look at. Madame de Pompadour's Bellevue at Meudon may be long gone, but a wisp of drawings remain. On view until Sunday, 16. December. Closed on Tuesdays. At the Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

"Moi Zénobie, Reine de Palmyre" - the cultural centre of the Panthéon has arranged this exhibition to tell us about the reign of Zénobie in the third century in Egypt. Until Sunday, 16. December, from Monday to Saturday, from 10:45 to 17:45. On Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:40. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Utopic Parks - At the turn of the last century Paris found itself behind other major cities in the 'park-race,' and this called for all sorts of plans - many of which remained 'plans.' In the last 20 years 150 new gardens have been created, bringing the total of green flecks to 420. For the phantom ones, see this exhibition from Thursday, 6. December until Sunday, 24. February 2002, at the Maison du Lac in the Parc de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy or Cour St-Emilion. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Africolor - is a festival of African music and dance being held in various locations in Montreuil, Saint-Denis and other areas beyond Paris' northern rim. Beginning on Friday, 14. December and continuing until Christmas Day. For details, try the Africolor Web site, or their office at 145. Rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20. InfoTel.: 01 47 97 69 99.

Tango Pasion - by 'A Los Amigos,' features choregraphy by Hector Zaraspe with El Sexteto Mayor and Guillermo Galvé as the featured singer. On Wednesday, 19. December, then from Friday, 21. December until Sunday, 6. January. No shows on 25 December and 1. January. At the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt. InfoTel.: 01 49 52 50 50.

The seasonal sights are on show soon or already here with decorated windows at the Galeries Lafayette, the Bon Marché, Samaritaine and Printemps. The Avenue Montaigne lights up along with the Rue Royal and the Champs-Elysées on Thursday, 29. November. Then it is the turn of the Place Vendôme and the Rue de la Paix on Monday, 3. December. Most lights stay lit until the end of December or until early in January.

Christmas 'Marchés' - take place, beginning at the end of November, at Montparnasse, the Place de la Bourse, the Place de la Nation, the Place Bastille, at Bercy, and at the Place Maurice-Chevallier in Menilmontant. The pedestrian area near the Pompidou Centre will also be a vast marché until Sunday, 23. December.

Crêches - the big one is inside Notre Dame cathedral, beginning on Wednesday, 5. December. Thenposter: expo, huges sambin, chateau d'ecouen there will a tour of some - at Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile, Saint-Sévérin and Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis. This tour begins on Wednesday, 26. December and continues until New Year's Day. From 10:00 to 20:00 daily. See the Catholique.Com Web site for details about all of this.

Also see 'Noël la Paix Dans le Monde' - which features 200 crêches from around the world, starting on Saturday, 8. December, until Sunday, 6. January, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Paroisse Saint-Joseph Artisan, 214. Rue La Fayette, Paris 10. Métro: Louis-Blanc.

Choirs - for the season begin at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile on Saturday, 8. December, and the following Friday at the Eglise Saint-Roch. After mid-month, frequency increases, with a Sunday concert at the Théâtre du Châtelet. A Christmas Eve mass will be held in the chapel of Saint-Louis de l'Ecole Militaire. The Grand Choir of the Moussorgsky State Opera from Saint Petersburg performs nightly from Tuesday, 25. December until Tuesday, 1. January 2002 at the Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile.

Christmas Trees - fashion designers turn their talents to decorating Christmas trees and about 80 of these will be on view from Thursday, 20. December until Wednesday, 2. January, from 11:00 to 18:00. At the Espace Pierre Cardin, 1-3. Avenue Gabriel, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 27 35.

Le Mystère de Noël à Notre Dame - is a really big show, an opera in fact, featuring the 'Bonne Nouvelle' of Christmas with digital images. Actually these are based on the works of Rembrandt, Van Eyck and Giotto, with some by Rouault and Chagall. Famous actor's voices tell the story, with subtitles in English. Beginning on Saturday, 1. December and continuing until Sunday, 6. January. Shows every hour from 10:00 to 18:00. In front of Notre Dame, on the Ile de la Cité, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 56 56 44 22. See Catholique.Com's Web site for details about this.

Ice Skating - the Hôtel de Ville's outdoor ice skating rink will be back in the place in front of Paris' main city hall, possibly on Thursday, 6. December. It will be open daily for twirling - from 9:00 to a late 22:00, going by last year's times - and continue until late in February. Skates will be available for rent. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Early 2002 - See Carla Accardi's 'Urgent Painting' at Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne beginning on Monday, 2. January. 'Le Carnaval' shows up at the Maison de Balzac on Tuesday, 15. January. For fashion, see 'Madame Carven' at the Musée Galleria, beginning on Friday, 25. January.

Sous le Soleil de Mithra - is an exhibition of religious subjects inspired by antiquity and done by Picasso - most likely also concerning some heads of bulls. Continuing until Monday, 4. March 2002. From 9:30 to 17:30, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavalet's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings of Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. Marcel Proust was featured in Metropole earlier this year. Until Sunday, 20. January. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

La Nouvelle Athènes - many think the Second Empire period of the 19th century represented the 'Belle Epoque' but forget the preceding intimate and literary period that associated Balzac, Dumas, Baudelaire, Chopin and Georges Sand, with the 'July Monarchy,' all within a small area in the 9th arrondissement's 'Nouvelle Athènes.' Paintings, sculpture and photographs from the period are on view. From Friday, 7. December until Sunday, 10. February 2002, from 13:00 to 19:00, at the Fondation Taylor, 1. Rue La Bruyère, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Free entry.

Arnold Böcklin - is featured in an exhibition showing the influence of Italy on this 19th century Swiss painter, usually considered to be 'Germanic.' Also see 'Klinger/Brahms,' featuring for the first time in France, Klinger's 26-metre long 'Brahmsphantasie.' Both artists on show until Sunday,13. January. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Paris - Barcelona - is subtitled 'From Gaudi to Miro' and features the artistic interaction between the two cities from the 19th century to the middle of the 20th, featuringposter: expo, nouvelles images du japon painting, sculpture, architecture, photography - and Surrealism, of course. Lots of big names. Until Monday, 14. January. Except Tuesdays, open 10:00 to 19:15 and from 10:00 to 21:15 on Wednesdays. Reservations required for morning visits up to 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Cleamenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Raphaël - Grâce et Beauté - Casanova said nobody did human figures better and he knew what he was talking about. Raphaël Sanzio and 80 of his paintings will turn up in the Senat's little gallery located in a Medicis park, for an extended stay after Raphaël's 20-year absence from Paris. Continues until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level of 'Impressionism.' See these tendencies and Metropole's feature in this issue. Until Sunday, 13. January. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Free entry. In the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

L'Orient de Saladin - or 'Au Temps des Ayyoubides,' is an exhibition about the life and times of the Crusades, which are unrelated to our times. Continues until Sunday, 10. March 2002. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Kannibals et Vahinés - how we looked at the south seas, as seen through popular literature from the end of the 18th century until now. With comics, cinema, travel magazines - from Jules Verne to Tintin. On show until Monday, 18. February 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00..

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition continuing until Monday, 25. February 2002. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

La Juif Errant - an exhibition around the legend, within other legends, of the 'Wandering Jew.' This continues until Sunday, 24. February 2002. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

L'Or des Rois Scythes - this big exhibition will fill up the Grand Palais until Thursday, 31. December. Reservations required for morning visits until 13:00; come as you are afterwards. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Dubuffet's - centennial means a major retrospective for this painter. On view until the end of this year. From 11:00 to 21:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Nostalgies Coréennes - features 100 paintings and 27 screens from the 17th to 19th centuries, all from the harmonious collection of Lee U-Fan. Until Monday, 14. January, from 10;00 to 18:00, except on closed Tuesdays. Musée National des Guimet, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Dans la Lumière du Nord - is a retrospective of Bengt Olson's works, with about 60 pieces on show. Many feature northern nature scenes, in their frozen state. This continues until Monday, 14. January, when it may still be winter here. Except Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Mali-Kow - is an exhibition where you can discover the various realities of Mali, though objects and films from this African country. Until Sunday, 24. February 2002. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00, in the Pavillon Paul Delouvrier. At the Parc et Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Jean Cocteau - 'à Montparnasse, ailleurs et aprés.' Presented by Roger Pic and Pierre Bergé. This continues until Sunday,poster: thtr, berg & beck, mus d'art et histoire judaisme 3. February 2002. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Worth a visit just to see this museum belonging to the past. At Le Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Etienne Falconet à Sèvres - is subtitled ' the art to please.' Etienne Falconet was the head of the 'Manufacture' at Sèvres in the period from 1756 to 1766, when everybody in Europe was asking for his pieces - and about 120 of them will be on show. Also see the works by Robert Deblander, done within the last 50 years. Until Monday, 4. February 2002. Except Tuesday, open from 10:00 to 17:00. Musée de Céramique, Sèvres, Place de la Manufacture, in Sèvres across the bridge from the métro stop, Pont de Sèvres. InfoTel.: 01 41 14 04 20.

Lam Métis - Wifedo Lam was born in Cuba in 1902, with roots in Africa and China. He moved to Spain and painted there until his involvement with the civil war landed him in a sanatorium near Barcelona, which led to his arrival in Paris in 1938, where he met Picasso for the first time. With WWII he moved with other French artists to Cuba, then to New York. Afterwards he returned to Paris and finally settled in Italy. In one period in the '70s he produced 500 artworks. For this exhibition, see a selection from Wifedo Lam's paintings done between 1938 and 1961. Until Sunday, 20. January. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

August Strindberg - has been subtitled 'Painter and Photographer' for this exhibition which continues until Sunday, 27. January. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. The temporary entry to this museum is on the Quai Anatole France. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Giorgio Morandi - Dans l'Ecart du Réel - has been assembled by London's Tate Modern and shows 80 works featuring a series from the '50s and '60s. Until Sunday, 6. January. Also see Traversées (New French Wave), featuring France's artists who have 'new energy,' on show here featuring architecture, music and literature. Until Sunday, 13. January. Both at Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Atelier de Gilbert Boyer - is an installation based on a text by Zadkine and a voyage to Canada - Gilbert Boyer from Quebec explores the ties between public and private spaces. Until Sunday, 27. January. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Niki de Saint-Phalle has donated some of her 'objects' to this museum. Executed in the period from 1980 to 1997, some of these are unique pieces. On view from 11:00 to 18:00 weekdays, from 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 21:00 on Wednesdays. At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Les Sports - as sculpted by Bouchard, for the 1924 Olympics foreseen for Paris. Continuing until Wednesday, 13. March 2002. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Territories - is an exhibition demonstrating the crossroads between art, information and the news, as interpreted artistically. Until Sunday, 30. December, except Mondays, from 13:00 to 19:00. Watch for the coming 'Italia Antigua' exhibition, from January to the end of March 2002. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 74.

Aux Frontières de l'Art Brut - continues a show begun two years ago with the works of seven others artists, operating between 'art brut' and 'art naive.' Also see 'Noir sur Blanc' which presents eight other artists, working without colors. Until Sunday, 6. January. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.:01 42 58 72 89.

Savignac - one of the best poster designers in the last half the last century, Raymond Savignac had his first displayed in 1933. This exhibition runs until Saturday, 12. January. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.:01 42 78 14 60.

Lettonie, Latvija - is an exhibition from the collection of the National Museum of History of Latvia. The occasion is the 800th anniversary of the founding of Riga. Untilposter: alberto giacometti, atelier du sculpteur Sunday, 20. January. Except for Tuesdays and holidays, from 9:15 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 44 05 72 00.

Jouer la Lumière! - features threads, textiles, lace - all of which changes with light and one's viewpoint. Recommended by Metropole's club members. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00; on Wednesdays until 21:00. Until Monday, 31. December. At the Musée de la Mode, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Humour et Fantaisies - with Maurice Henry, also featuring works by Gus Bofa, Beuville, Chastel, Roger Wild and André Girard. Continues until Friday, 11. January. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30. At the Atelier An-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

The Louvre - is a huge place, somewhat like a 'hypermarché' of a museum. In addition to the tens of thousands of exhibits on permanent display, there are also special exhibitions. One on now is called 'Le Quartier du Musée du Louvre, XVIIe Siècle,' which continues until 31. December. Also see 'La Peinture Comme Crime' featuring artists as diverse as Odilon Redon and Jackson Pollock. until 14. January 2002. From 9:00 to 18:00 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. The Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 57 60.

Le Voyage Souterrain - is taken from a two-month voyage by Olga Tchernicheva on Paris' own métro, within the framework of a Paris-Moscow search for happiness. Until Friday, 4. January, from Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00. In the exhibition space in the Hôtel d'Albret; which houses the city's Cultural Affairs headquarters. At 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00. No entry charge.

Photographs - by Don McCullin until February 2002. Also see the exhibits by Marie-Laure de Decker and Jorge Molder, until Sunday, 13. January. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Jean Nouvel - is an architect who presents a 'manifesto' here without models, drawings or other objects, by using only manipulated images. Until Monday, 14. January. Except on Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 21:00. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Paris, Like In the Movies - For the first time, Paris' architectural museum turns into a cinema to show some 'home movies,' such as the one shot by Louis Etevez in 1924. Until Sunday, 6. January. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

One Hundred Eyes - is an photographic exhibition by Mac Adams, lasting until Sunday, 6. January. Open from Wednesdays to Sundays, from 13:00 to 18:30. At the Centre Photographique d'Ile-de-France, 107. Avenue de la République, in Pontault-Combault. By SNCF train for 30 minutes from Gare de l'Est, in the direction of Tournan or Coulommiers and get off at Emerainville or Pontault-Combault. InfoTel.: 01 70 05 49 80.

Hans Namuth and Philippe Halsman - Namuth was art director of Harper's Bazaar, plus did 500 portraits of Jackson Pollock and other famous people. Unless it'sposter: paris en banlieue, mus nogent sur marne a typo, Halsman's photos are also on view. Continuing until Sunday, 6. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - the Cata combs are open again, with a new photo exhibition continuing until February 2002. Note - the 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Forum des Images - the new theme from its film collection is called 'Corps à Corps,' on show from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00 - from now until Tuesday, 22. January. This includes 31 boxing films. Also see new 'Images from Japan' from 13 to 23. December. At the Forum des Images, Porte Sainte-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

The Cinémathèque Française - see Jerzy Skolimowski's films at Chaillot until Sunday, 30. December. George Romero's horrors are being shown until Sunday, 16. December at the Grands Boulevards. The Cinémathèque operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Le Voleur de Noël - is the Lido's big show for little kids, with lots of spectacular effects normally used for other types of shows in this nightclub. Several dates in December and two in January. Showtimes are usually 14:00 and 16:00. At the Lido de Paris, 116-bis. Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8. Métro: George V. InfoTel.: 01 40 76 56 10.

Le Cirque Sur l'Eau - Medrano presents the watery Saint-Petersburg circus, featuring - perhaps - swimming tigers but not Ester Williams. Until Friday, 14. December. Located at 43-45. Rue d'Aubervilliers, Paris 19. Métro: Stalingrad. InfoTel.: 01 45 15 01 01.

Paris Aime le Cirque - is the allover name given to the first half of the 'Year of Circus Arts,' which features a largeposter: waiting for richard, thtr gennevilliers program - to be followed in March 2002 by part two. The huge program becomes bigger in October and November, to saturate the season of Noël. For additional details check out the Web site of the magazine, 'Cirques Aujourd'hui.'

Arts de la Jongle - more 'nouveau cirque' features several units such as Jongle, Jongle Cabaret, Cirque Lili and Non Nova. Until next Sunday, 18. November. Various days and times. Followed by 'Cirkus Cirkör & Orionteatern,' until Sunday, 30. December. At the Espace Chapiteaux, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione - says 'Trapèze' - with a look back at the film, some of which was shot at the Cirque d'Hiver. Continuing until 27. January. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Friday and 14:00 and 17:00 on Wednesday and Saturday, with 14:00 and 20:30 for Sundays. No shows on Monday and Thursday, except during school holidays when the show must go on. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris 11. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 28 81.

En Route Pour la Cirque - an exhibition of yesterday's and today's circus, for both little kids and big adults - in this 'Year of the Circus' lasting until April 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00; on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Impulsion II - is subtitled 'Hommage aux Saltimbanques,' which means pure circus with clowns, juggles, wild animals and sawdust. Except on Mondays, until 24. February 2002. Cirque National Alexis Gruss, on the Pelouse de Madrid, Allée de la Reine Marguerite, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Bus: 43, from Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 08 00.

Le Grand Cirque de Mexique - shows up with the Cirque Phénix, with Mexico's National Ballet orchestra. Various times and dates, from Saturday, 24. November until Sunday, 6. January. At the Pelouse de Reuilly in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Charenton or Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 08 25 03 90 40.

Figure de Passion - is an exhibition featuring Baroque painting and music. Continues until Sunday, 20. January. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Cité de la Musique, at the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Notre Dame de Paris - Victor Hugo's really big 'Paris' show is back in town, again, I think. Isn't this a re-run or a re-make? Whichever it is, playing daily except Mondays, until the end of December. Usually at 20:30, but 15:00 and 20:30 on Saturdays and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre Mogador, 25. Rue de Mogador, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01 53 32 32 00.

Irma La Douce - this is the Alexandre Buffort version of the musical comedy, with extra entertainment by the performers and musicians in the theatre's bar. Continuing until Sunday, 6. January. Times are possibly at 20:00 and at 15:00 on Sundays with the no-show day on Monday. At the Opéra Comique, 1. Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

La Malade Imaginaire - is by Molière, in this production by Claude Stratz.. Odd dates from Friday, 7. December until March 2002. In the Salle Richelieu at the Comédie Française, 2. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 58 15 15.

Opéras - are in full swing in Paris at their locations in the Palais Garnier and at the Place de la Bastille. Current and comming productions include Shéhérazade, Pétrouchka, La Bayadère, Puccini's La Bohème and La Khovantchina. For both opera and ballet, check the Web site, or call Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Malraux et la Modernité - for the centennial of his birth, André Malraux is honored for his half-century of artistic endeavors and as a 'visionary of culture.' A big and important show, continuing until Sunday, 24. March 2002. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Histoires de Calendriers - is also known as 'De Temps en Temps' and it is an exhibition of the idea of changing time rather than the mechanics of keeping track of it. On display, 200 pieces from 2000 years. Until Friday, 8. February 2002. Except Tuesdays, open from 12:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Rohan, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Investigating Shivers - an exhibition showing how closely crime investigation and crime literature were involved, according to Dr. Watson. Until Wednesday, 26. December, from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the Bibliothèque de Littérature Policière - aka BILIPO; 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

La Comédie Humaine - Balzac's opus, in its 1840 'Edition Furne' was a deluxe edition with a popular price, which launched modern publishing techniques. At the time the trick was to price the work low enough to discourage counterfeits and reading rooms, yet high enough return a profit to bookshops and the author. Until Sunday, 6. January. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Leclerc et Ses Hommes - Crossed Destinies - the victor of Koufra, liberator of Paris and Strasbourg, did it all with a wide variety men from all stations in life, who contributed to his and their own destinies. Presented with a background of comics from 1948-49, this exhibition continues until Sunday, 20. January. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Objectif Mars - is an exhibition of the history of Earth's 'sister' planet,' as seen - or imagined - from Earth. Until Thursday, 6. January, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. Closed Monday. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. InfoTel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Decoding Hair - or, 'Le Cheveu se Décode' is an exhibition about hair, which is more fascinating than you may think, regardless of it being short, long, blond or green. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 6. January. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Queen for a Day... - features the collection of Michelle Muller's 'fèves' - haricots? - beans?? - dishes, games, Parisian monuments, comics, animals - and crowns! - all very decorative, and wih old documents. I can't figure this out. Until Friday, 1. February 2002. At the Hôtel Ambassador, 16. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 01 44 83 40 40.

'A Table' - In the 19th Century - is a show about tables, cooking, restaurants and everything concerning the act of eating, which may include more than just the 19th century version. In Orsay's 'Salle des Fêtes.' Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Le Plus Belles Robes du Cinéma - come from the collection of the Cinémathèque Française, and many have never been exhibited before. Illustrated with sketches, photos and film extracts. Some very big designer names are shown here. Until Sunday, 24. February 2002. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. Pavillon des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, 101. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Jouets de Princes - includes the period of 1770 to 1870, when toys for royal kids formed part of their education for their future royal jobs rather than for sheer fun. Many French parents think the same today - growing up is a 'serious' business, royal or not. Until Monday, 28. January. Except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 12:30 and from 13:30 to 17:00. At the Musée des Châteaux de Malmaison et de Bois-Préau, Avenue du Château, in Malmaison. Take either the métro or the RER to La Défense, then the bus 258 to the Bois-Préau or the château. InfoTel.: 01 41 29 05 55.

Jeu de Rois, Roi des Jeux - merely presents an exhibition about the pre-tennis game of Jeu de Paume, without associating it with Henri IV, Leonardo or Joséphine, like many other things at Fountainebleau. Where the game is played in Paris was featured in Metropole last year. On view untilposter: aux frontiers de l'art brut, halle st pierre Monday, 7. January. Except Tuesdays, open from 9:30 to 17:00. Take a SNCF train from Gare de Lyon to Fountainebleau-Avon, where you'll find a bus to take you the rest of the way to the Château. There is a combo ticket including rail transport and entry to the exhibition. In Fountainebleau. InfoTel.: 01 60 71 50 70.

Héros Populaires - since sometime before the Middle Ages Europe has had more than its share of heros, both real and fictional - including anti-heros. This exhibition's poster features Cuba's Ché, and you can expect Cinderella too. Until Monday, 10. June 2002. Daily from 9:45 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires, 6. Avenue Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 16. Métro: Sablons in Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 44 17 60 70.

Jardin Botanique - is Paris' 'show' garden, featuring its ordinary, its rare and its exceptional plant-life, such as a rare tree from Easter Island. Daily from 9:30 to 19:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 43 28 47 63.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air until the end of the year but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day or not. If so, first lift-off at 9:00, until dark. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard or Javel. Flight info at InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Paris' Big Wheel - presents Paris views from another high place, which is called Concorde. Meant to come down at the end of 2000, the concession has been extended until Monday, 7. January 2002. So there are only a couple of days left for your ride. From 11:00 to 00:30, at the Place de la Concorde, Métro Concorde. Six 'Paris-SOS' associations have called for the wheel's removal because the attraction's operator has been asking for another year's parking rights. Will this big wheel keep on rolling?

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