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photo: coupe de ville of the year

At long last, Metropole brings you the 'Coupe de
Ville of the Week.'

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Paris:- Saturday, 11. May 2002:- I think I picked the wrong week to skip this column. It seems like there are more local events - or more news of them is pouring in. Many are for Parisians, but there's no reason why visitors can't benefit from them too.

Or, it could be that there has been a definite shift - away from the formal and monumental, to the local and colorful. For regular visitors who have seen the big sights more than once, no more twiddling your fingers wondering what to do next.

Please note that I don't have any more solid information about the 'Paris Plage' item below, other than having plugged it for years. If it is really real, it might be time to start bringing your resort and seaside gear.

This May also has its usual weekend 'bridges.' Keep in mind the long Pentecôte weekend of Saturday,18. to Monday, 20. May.



Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ reopens today, at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles, plusposter: expo, l'invention du sentiment, cite musique five other mobile locations. Bike rentals are from about 3 euros per hour and tours are from 13 euros, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77, which is necessary to call for the guided tours.

Seasonals - It may seem kind of early in the year for the summer season to start, but the Seine-side speedway will be closed on Sundays and holidays from 9:00 to 17:00, until next fall. Right bank - from the Tuileries to Bercy and on the left bank - from the Quai Anatole France to the Quai Branly.

Bike routes all year round - on Sundays and holidays, from 10:00 to 18:00, in the 5th arrondissement around Mouffetard, and in the 10th, around the canals from the Quai de Valmy and up to the Quai de Jemmapes. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Balade à Vélo - to discover the artisanal and industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

4th International Montmartre Festival - 'En Europe,' featuring the union of culture, from the Atlantic to the Urals. From Friday, 17. May to Saturday, 1. June. In, on Montmartre. Paris 18. InfoTel.: 01 42 64 04 60.

Mai des Montparnos - started yesterday at the Coupole, and continues mainly on weekends until the beginning of June. Next weekend - artists' 'open doors' in the 14th and 16th arrondissements with the 'Marché de Création at Edgar Quinet. On 25 and 26. May the party moves to the 13th, including the galleries in the Rue Louise Weiss. On the first June weekend, 'open doors' in the 15th, plus at Les Frigos, at the Quai de la Gare in the 13th. Paris 6, 13, 14 and 15.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic, clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, until 25. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Art ou Nature? - is an exhibition beginning on Saturday, 18. May, continuing until Saturday, 15. June. From 11:00 to 18;00, in the Orangerie du Luxembourg. The outdoor part has the same start date, but continues until 21 September. 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 33 99.

Balloons Away - Eutelsat has replaced Fortis as the sponsor of the tethered balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën. These take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. For flight conditions call 01 24 26 20 00. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Ubu, Opéra - Alfred Jarry is back, just in time, in this opera version of - what? Direction and music by Vincent Bouchot. Dates are 14, 16, 17, 18 . and 19. May. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Pirates! - keep on sailing, sailing. Over the horizon by now, but now prolonged until 14. October. See full listing below.

A Fleur de Terre - features the photos of Olivier Grunewald until Wednesday, 15 May. Open daily except Monday, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays and some holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Palais de la Découverte,poster: charlety s'envole, 2 june Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Madame Pompadour et les Arts - the connection is made with many portraits of her, plus other works, including furniture and textiles. Also see her newly-restored apartment. Until Sunday, 19. May, from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Musée des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon, in Versailles. SNCF trains from Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or RER line 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 00.

Carlos Santos - Samaruck - features a lot of magic and music, in sort of an aerial opera somewhere between the air, earth and possibly, Catalonia. Until Sunday, 19. May. At the Espace Chapiteaux at La Villette. Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Anyone for Tennis? - tennis fans can make their annual way to the Roland Garros shrine, beginning on Monday, 27. May, when winter is expected to be over - but usually never is. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil.

Paris Jazz Festival - this year's edition begins on Saturday, 18. May and continues until Tuesday, 28. May. From 15:30 weekdays and from 16:30 on weekends. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

international Old Book Fair - this is Paris' big annual event for dealers as well as collectors, scheduled to take place from Thursday, 23. May until Sunday, 26. May. From 10:00 to 19:00, and from 15:00 to 21:00 on the first day. At the Maison de la Mutualité, 24. Rue Saint-Victor, Paris 5. Métro: M aubert-Mutualité. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 46 38.

Arcavals - is the carnival in the 19th arrondissement at 16:00 on Saturday, 25. May. At Place Stalingrad. Same thing but different for the 18th, at 16:00 on Saturday, 1. June, at the Mairie. Watch for 'Attitude 18' from Tuesday, 28. May until Sunday, 9. June too. Different carnival again in the 11th arrondissementposter: enfance d'art cinema, cinemas independents at the Place Voltaire, at 17:30 on Saturday, 8. June. More, this time in the 9th, at the church Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, at 16:00, on Saturday, 15. June. InfoTel.: 01 40 09 03 34.

Mâkhi Xenakis - phantoms came to this exiled Greek who took Corsica as a substitute home, and they are featured in this posthumous exhibition, beginning on Thursday, 23. May and continuing until Friday, 5. July. From 10:00 to 18:00, Monday to Friday. At the location of the Cultural Affairs direction of the Ville de Paris in the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00. No entry charge.

Photos by Nathalie Darbellay - features photos taken during the renovations of the Opéra, the Opéra-Comique and the Châtelet theatre, all once part of Paris' 'Le Grand Opéra,' of the 19th century. Except for these, the other extravagant 'grand' locations have disappeared. To be presented in the Crypte Archéologique under the parvis of Notre Dame, from Wednesday, 29. May until Sunday, 29. September. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Crypte Archéologique, 1. Place du Parvis de Notre-Dame, on the Ile de la Cité. Métro: Cité or Saint-Michel. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 83 51.

Festival Agora 2002 - features music, dance and theatre in a big and diversified program lasting for two weeks, from Friday, 31. May until Saturday, 15. June. Last year's note - this is 'serious' music, organized by the Pompidou Centre's Ircam. The festival may take place in multiple locations. At the Ircam, 1. Place Igor-Stravinsky, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel-de-Ville. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 48 16.

Latitudes Villette / Mahgreb - is a program of music and dance from north Africa, beginning on Friday, 31. May and continuing until Sunday, 9. June. Various times. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Juarès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Le Printemps des Amandiers - is the 20th arrondissement's spring fête, beginning on Friday, 31. May at 18:30, and continuing on Saturday and Sunday with parades, bands, 'repas du quartier,' theatre, concerts and dancing. Various times. Paris 20. InfoTel.: 01 40 33 50 30.

Salon de la Bande Dessinée à Paris - for the first time Paris will have its own major salon devoted to the comics, which are not only a major story-telling form but also a major publishing business in France. From Saturday, 1. June until Wednesday, 5. June. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Fête du Vélo - not be outdone by upstart roller folk, bike fans get their own two days in Paris and throughout France on Saturday and Sunday, 1. and 2. June. Meeting place is in front of Paris' main city hall. Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. These are this year's dates, but this is last year's Web site - try Fête du Vélo, which is last year's Web site URL.

39th Foire à Photo - is a big event where you shouldn't go if your credit is limited. Antique photos and equipment, buyers and sellers, and classy photo expos. One day only, Sunday, 2. June, starting at 9:00 and continuing until 18:00 - and only a short way from Paris in Bièvre. Hit Foire à Photo. This will be at the Place de la Mairie in Bièvres, which can be reached with the RER 'C' from the Gare d'Austerlitz. There is supposed to be a train every hour. By car, leaving from the Porte de Chatillon, take the RN 309 straight ahead about nine kilometres. In Bièvres, look for the parking lot and a shuttle-bus to the Place de la Mairie.

Monum Vert - may be the green part of France's patrimony, with a big show mainly on Friday and Saturday, 1 and 2. June, but going on in some places throughout June. Paris and France. InfoTel.: 01 44 61 21 50.

Onze Bouge - is called the 'Festival de Création à Paris,' but isposter: pestacles, parc floral probably just the 11th arrondissement kicking up its heels in a big way. From Thursday, 6. June until Sunday, 16. June. Paris 11. InfoTel.: 01 53 27 13 68.

25th Foire de Saint-Germain - is the western Quartier Latin's fête for itself, lasting a full month from Thursday, 6. June until Saturday, 7. July. Paris 6. Métro: Mabillon or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 61 04.

Fêtes des Tuileries - amusement rides in the Tuileries gardens move in on Tuesday, 14. June and stay until the end of August. Hours are 11:00 to midnight, and until 01:00 on Friday, Saturday and eves of holidays. Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries. InfoTel.: 01 46 27 52 29.

Fête de la Musique - this year's edition takes place on Friday, 21. June, all day and night, everywhere in Paris and in France. Try the Web site for more details. Hope for 'no rain.'

19th Chopin Festival - is for you if you feel like a little music from the country, in a big park. From Saturday, 22. June until Sunday, 14. July. Times unknown. At the Orangerie de Bagatelle, Route de Reine-Marguerite, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry - possibly 1.50 euros. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19, ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Fêtes du Bassin le la Villette - with the slogan, 'Le 19e, Mon Village,' this party starts at 22:00 on Saturday, 22. June and goes from 14:00 to 19:00 on Sunday. Lots of loud and funky brass, lots of nautical stuff, fireworks, right beside the canal. At the Bassin de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Stalingrad or Jaurés. InfoTel.: 01 44 52 29 13.

Jazz à Montmartre - the 8th edition puts out its drum rolls from Saturday, 22. June until Sunday, 30. June. In, on Montmartre. Paris 18. InfoTel.: 01 42 54 45 21.

Fête du Cinéma - spins out for three days throughout France, from Sunday, 23. June to Tuesday, 25. June. Paris and the surrounding country, including Corsica. InfoTel.: 01 40 29 85 61.

Louis Vuitton Classic - is, I suspect, classic horse jumping, lasting two days. Friday and Saturday, 28. and 29. June, from 12:00 to 18:00 the first day and from 10:00 to 19:00 on the second, with the parade and the prize ceremony at 16:00. In the Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs. InfoTel.: 08 10 81 00 10.

Ex-Lesbian & Gaypride Parade - is now to be called 'La Marche des Fiertes Lesbienne, Gai, Bi & Trans!' - which makes a lot more sense, when we know it will still be the same old techno-rock noise-blitz with jolly costumes. Mark Saturday, 29. June in your calendars. Now add 14:00, and guess the rest. Maybe the Web site knows more. Somewhere in Paris. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 47 01.

Paris Plage - except for dates and a intermission on Sunday, 28 July for the Tour de France's tour of Paris, the beach will be open from Sunday, 21. July until Sunday, 18. August - nothing else is known about this except circulation will be reduced on weekends on the Canal Saint-Martin. We'll see.

Coming In the Fall - beginning in September and October, you will find Manet and Vélasquez at the Musée d'Orsay, Matisse and Picasso, followed by Constable, at the Grand Palais, as well as Kramer and Picasso at the Musée Picasso, and 'Rituels Tibétains' at the Guimet Museum.

Marc Chagall - important works are featured in an exhibition, 'Hadassah, de l'Esquisse au Vitrail,' until Sunday, 15. September. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, andposter: expo, photo, regards sur le jazz, sophie le roux on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Ubuntu - is an exhibition featuring the somewhat little-known cultures and arts of South Africa. More than 200 pieces from European and South African collections are on view. Until Monday, 17. June. Except Tuesday, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 84 80.

La Révolution Surréaliste - will be a major exhibition dealing with, possibly, the 'exile' of the Surrealists during WWII. See the furry cup and saucer, with the furry-spoon as an accessory. This craziness, know seen as an art form, continues until Monday, 24. June. From 11:00 to 21: daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Un Temps d'Exubérance - characterized the lesser-known arts déco at the time of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. This big show continues until Monday, 8. July. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Cleamenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Mondrian - 1892 - 1914 - is subtitled 'on the paths to abstraction' for this exhibition continuing until Sunday, 14. July. From 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, entry at 62. Rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Victor Hugo in Caricatures - 70 cartoons inspired by the person of Victor Hugo, mostly by Honoré Daumier, Gustave Doré and André Gill, await you - out of 500 caricatures that were made during Hugo's lifetime. On view until Sunday, 4. August. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80. Also see the Ministry of Culture's portal for more Victor Hugo events, such as 'Exilium Vite Est,' on show from Tuesday, 7. May until August, presented at Hugo's exile home at Hauteville House on the Ile of Guernsey.

Les Paris de Victor Hugo - this is a two-part exhibition featuring Victor Hugo's personal Paris locations and the locales detailed in 'Les Misérables' and 'Notre Dame de Paris,' which will be on show in several of the public libaries around Paris. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 80 50. Also note that Paris has a 'Bibliothèque Administrative' on the 4th floor of the Hôtel de Ville. This has works concerning law, politics and Paris' own history, and is open to researchers and the general public. At the Hôtel de Ville, entry 5, Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 48 87.


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