The Summer 'Scene'

photo: gay parade, rue de rennes, saturday

The ex-Gay Pride parade launches down the Rue de
Rennes on Saturday.

And Some of It Is Free

Paris:- Saturday, 29. June 2002:- As explained a bit last week, Paris has two parallel programs - one for regular events that continue through the summer, and another for summer events that don't continue during the winter.

This is not to say that all of the regular monuments and major museums toss their keys under the door and take off for eight weeks - these are open too. The programs of these are not included here, but you will be able to find occasional Web URLs to give you hints of what else is currently playing.

This 'summer' in Paris will be longer too - until it ends with an all-invited, all-night 'Nuit Blanche,' to be held on Saturday-Sunday, 5-6. October, which might be 'Indian-summer' time. For this, the city intends to keep its cultural doors open all night.



LoveParade Berlin - this is where it started and this is where it keeps on street dancing, if you can't afford to go to Brazil. For this year, on Friday, 12. and Saturday, 13. July. Not in Paris, but in Berlin. Métro/U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Zoo. Try the LoveParade Web site for more information.

Solidays - but if you can't wait, Paris has its own two-day festival this coming weekend, on 6. and 7. July, featuring 40 concerts with a lot of big names. With a 'Solidays' pass, the SNCF is offering fareposter: fete solidays, 6, 7 july reductions. Camping places available - reservations are advised. A 'pass' for the entire weekend is 31euro 3 sign or 34euro 3 sign. Mostly happening at the Longchamp racetrack. Paris 16. Métro: Porte Maillot, Porte d'Auteuil or Boulogne-Jean-Jaurès. Free buses leave from in front of the Palais des Congrés at Porte Maillot. Tickets available at Fnac, Carrefour and France Billet.

Don Giovanni - will be opera under the stars, playing in the Luxembourg from Sunday to Tuesday, 18, 19 and 20. July. Thereafter, on three evenings in September, at the château of Vaux Le Vicomte. The Luxembourg is Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 08 92 70 11 22. Vaux Le Vicomte is 55 kilometres southeast of Paris near Maincy, just a bit east of Melun. InfoTel.: 01 64 14 41 90.

Fêtes des Tuileries - exciting amusement rides and cotton-candy vendors have moved into the Tuileries gardens and will be staying until the end of August or September. Hours are 11:00 to midnight, and until 01:00 on Friday, Saturday and eves of holidays. Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries. InfoTel.: 01 46 27 52 29.

Festival Soirs d'Ete - continues at 21:30 until Sunday, 14. July, except for Sundays and Mondays. At the Mairie of the 3rd arrondissement, 2. Rue Eugène-Spuller, Paris 3. Métro: Temple. No InfoTel.

19th Chopin Festival - is for you if you feel like a little music from the country, in a big park. Until Sunday, 14. July. Times are in afternoons and evenings. At the Orangerie de Bagatelle, Route de Reine-Marguerite, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or busposter: la goutte d'or en fete, to 7 july 43. Park entry - possibly 1.50 euros. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19, ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

For the Carless - the Seine-side speedways will be liberate from car-crazies for the use of strollers, bikers and rollers on Sundays and holidays from 9:00 to 17:00, until next fall. On the right bank - from the Tuileries to Bercy and on the left bank - from the Quai Anatole France to the Quai Branly.

During the summer, the right bank's expressway will be completely closed to traffic from Sunday, 21 July until Sunday, 18. August. One exception - see below.

Tour de France - after riding around, up and down, in France for three weeks followed by a huge supporting circus including many motorcycled TVs, this year's bike race wheels off its final laps in Paris. The finishing line is on the Champs-Elysées and the day to see it will be Sunday, 28. July.

Fête the Eve of the Fête de la Bastille - at the firemen's balls scattered around Paris. Montmartre started it in 1937 and the good-natured brave lads party on - all these are on Saturday, 13 and Sunday, 14. July, mostly with live music. Saturday's edition of Le Parisien should have the fête locations listed. The first fête lasted until the afternoon of the next day, and everyone at it missed the Champs-Elysées parade.

Two Big 'Bals' - one is usually at the Place de la Bastille, beginning at 22:00 and continuing until 02:00, with lots music and lots of party-people. Paris 4, 11 and 12. Métros: Saint-Paul, Sully- Morland, Chemin-Vert, Bréguet-Sabin or Ledru-Rollin.

The Parvis de la Hôtel de Ville - might be the scene of the other grand 'Bal,' also beginning at 22:00 and continuing until 01:00 or 02:00. Both of these 'Bals' will be held on Saturday, 13. July. Paris 4. Possible métro stops for the Hôtel de Ville will be Châtelet, Cité, Pont-Marie and the RER 'C' line's Saint-Michel stop.

Military Parade - this always takes place on the whole Champs-Elysées, from Etoile to the Place de la Concorde. The parade begins at 10:00 and will last until about 11:30. This is a rain or shine affair, so be prepared. On Sunday, 14. July. The official viewing stand is usually set up at the Place de la Concorde. Paris 8. Métros: count on the métro stops at Etoile, George V, Franklin Roosevelt, Clemenceau and Concorde being closed - arrive by way of the next nearest ones.

Fireworks - should have their night on Sunday, 14. July, beginning about 22:30. The dazzlers will be fired off from the Trocadéro's gardens, so the best place to be is across the Seine on the Champ de Mars, with possibly 350,000 other Fête Nationale fans. The show will last about 40 minutes, and is usually held rain or shine. Paris 7. Métros: Alma-Marceau, Ecole Militaire, Bir Hakeim or La Motte-Picquet- Grenelle - also the RER 'C' line stops of Pont de l'Alma and Champ de Mars.

Musique En l'Ile - is having its 16th season, to musically wend its way around the islands and through the summer until Sunday, 1. September. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 44 62 00 55.

L'Octuor de France - offers chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. With Brahms, Ravel, Bach; Bitsch, Haydn, Debussy and other stars - in several concerts - with twoposter: octuor de france, bagatelle entry prices, 20euro 3 sign for afternoons and 25euro 3 sign for candlelight - plus 1.50euro 3 sign for entry to the park. From Thursday, 18. July until Thursday, 15. August. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.:01 42 29 07 83.

Paris Plage, Part 1 - after the 'Canal En Fête' the beach opens, except for an intermission on Sunday, 28 July for the Tour de France's tour of Paris, from Sunday, 21. July until Sunday, 18. August - nothing else is known about this except traffic circulation will be reduced on weekends beside the Canal Saint-Martin. We'll see. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Quartier d'Eté - a vastly greater variety of events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic treats - from techno to opera to circuses - to be performed on streets, places and unusual locations throughout the city. This program goes on more or less non-stop from Sunday, 14. July until Saturday, 17. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. The Quartier d'Eté Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Fêtes de Bohème et de Moravie - will be five days of modern, classical and jazz from the Czech Republic, each evening at 20:30, from Tuesday, 27. August to Saturday, 31. August. At the Cabaret Sauvage, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

Les Grands Eaux Musicales - is the Château de Versailles' annual H2O and baroque musical fountain show. Every Sunday, at the 'Grande Perspective' from 11:00 to 12:00; and at 15:30 at all of the Bassins and Bosquets, with the finale at the 'Bassin de Neptune' around 17:20. Also on Saturdays, until 6. October including the 15. August. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.

Fêtes de Nuit - Versailles - is a sound and light spectacular which includes the fountains of the château, plus fireworks and dancers, in a show lasting nearly two hours. Dates are all on Saturdays - 24 and 31. August, followed by Saturdays on the 7, 14. and 21. September. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.

Bohemia Magica - the Czech Republic has had its own special relations with Paris and these are celebrated this year, at the Musée d'Orsay and the Montparnasse Museum. Besidesposter: boheme, festival ile de france featuring 20th century Czech artists in Paris, the 'Bohemia Magica' program also offers a showcase for contemporary Czech artists, film makers and writers. Until the end of the year.

Paris Chante Montand - is, I guess, a musical expo or an expo featuring the musical Yves Montand that continues until October. Free entry. Except on Sundays, from 9:30 to 18:30. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 43 43.

Mâkhi Xenakis - phantoms came to this exiled Greek who took Corsica as a substitute home, and they are featured in this posthumous exhibition, which continues until Friday, 5. July. From 10:00 to 18:00, Monday to Friday. At the location of the Cultural Affairs direction of the Ville de Paris in the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00. No entry charge.

Art ou Nature? - the outdoor part of this exhibition in the Luxembourg garden near the Orangerie continues until Saturday, 21 September. At the garden entry at 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 33 99.

Portraits de Victor Hugo - are by Auguste Rodin, and can be found at his house, except on Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00, from 10:00 to 21:45 on Thursdays, and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. Until Friday, 14. July, at the Musée Rodin, 77. Rue de Varennes, Paris 7. Métro: Varennes. InfoTel.: 01 44 18 61 24.

Elles de Montparnasse - models and artists added up to inspiration, which is the theme of this exhibition which continues until mid- September. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Le Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

C'est l'Eté - and Paris goes to the movies, which translates into a couple of good deals for film fans. The first concerns all who are 26 or younger. From Monday, 15. July until Saturday, 15 August, at 150 independent cinemas the entry price will be 3euro 3 sign. This is a reduction from last year, and the age limit has been raised by a year.

3euro 3 sign for Everybody - same deal as above, but for everybody, at 86 Paris cinemas with 372 screens. But three days only - from Sunday, 25. August until Tuesday, 27. August. Get ready for popcorn!

Moonlight Movies - 18 major films will be shown after sundown in parks, places and gardens throughout Paris, with no entry price. Except Mondays, from Tuesday, 6. August until Sunday, 25. August, usually starting about 21:30. See the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque Web site for details. Rome's 'Cittàdi Cinema' has been doing this for nine years, and has proposed two major Italian movies filmed in Paris for this cycle. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 18. In case of rain, no show.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a fresh-air tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a big grassy place for you to watch movies projected on a huge inflated screen. High quality films roll from Tuesday, 16. July until Sunday, 25. August; and start about 22:00, when it's dark enough. Deckchairs are also available. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Paris From the Sky - is proposed for a limited time by the Institut Géographique National in the form of a new aerial-photo montage, 11 metres by 15, which is not so tiny but is very detailed. If you've ever wanted to dance on Paris, this is the place to do it. On view in the Parc André Citroën, entry at the corner of the rues Saint-Charles and Balard. Paris 15. Métro: Balard InfoTel.: 01 43 98 83 06.

The Himalayas - are featured in large photos fixed to the Luxembourg garden's fence near the Place Edmond Rostand. A related film will also being shown, starting at 23:00, from Monday, 24. June until Saturday, 29. June and on Thursday and Friday, 11 and 12. July. Jardin du Luxembourg, near the Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 6. Métro: 'RER' Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 08 20 82 09 39.

Paris Jazz Festival - this year's edition continues until Tuesday, 28. July. Music in the park from 15:30 weekdays and from 16:30 on weekends. Major artists will be on hand, so the trip will be worth it. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Jazz à l'Hôtel d'Albret - seven groups fill up the courtyard of the city's cultural direction headquarters, from Monday, 29. July until Sunday, 4. August. Performancesposter: fest classique au vert, parc floral begin at 21:00 and the entry costs 15euro 3 sign. Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 45 08 55 25.

Hugo au Jardin - the 'Man of the Year' in Paris is on a green stage with performances until the end of September, in or at the Théâtre de Verdure du Jardin Shakespeare, in the Jardin Pré-Catalan, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Port Maillot and then bus 244, direction Reuil-Malmaison InfoTel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

'Voir des Etoiles' With Victor Hugo - for his bicentennial the focus is on Hugo's theatre efforts, in cooperation with the Comédie Française and the Bibliothèque Nationale. With 200 years to look back on, Hugo's works stand the test of modernism. The exhibition and performances continue until Sunday, 28. July. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Regard Sur le Cirque - is constituted by more than 400 original photos of the circus in Paris, taken from 1880 to 1960. Except Mondays, until Sunday, 15. September. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 29 40.

Année du Cirque - The 'Year of the Circus' taking place in 150 locations around France with the 2nd third of the yearlong program lasting until the end of June. The final part takes place during the summer and early fall. See the Année du Cirque Web site for complete details. Also see specific items below.

Paris Aime le Cirque - in Paris this is the all-over name given to the 'Year of Circus Arts.' In addition to the circuses noted below, there will be five circuses in residence in July and four will be performing throughout August this year.

Au XIXème Siècle - at the time, two centuries ago now, Parisposter: arts de cirque, paris bibliotheques was the world's circus capital. This show has been put together by the Bibliothèque Nationale, as an exhibit within the annual Foire de Saint-Germain. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, until Sunday, 7. July. In the Mairie's Salle du Vieux Colombier, 78. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 61 04.

Circus Cruel - brings you a paradise of 'bad-taste' every week from Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 in an old cinema reconverted into a circus-cabaret, until the end of June. Look for Le Zèbre, at 61-63. Boulevard de Belleville, Paris 11. Métro: Belleville or Coronnes. InfoTel.: 01 47 99 40 40.

Le Tradition est Notre Culture - is a bulky name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with an additional Saturday show at 20:30. Sounds like real circus. Find it at 9. Boulevard du Bois le Hêtre, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Saint-Ouen. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

Cirque Alexandra Franconi - is another traditional circus with clowns, jugglers, aerial acts, magic, and - circus! Until the beginning of October, in the Parc de Saint-Cloud near the Musée Ceramique de Sèvres. Métro: Pont de Sèvres, hike across the bridge and turn right. InfoTel.: 01 43 24 33 18.

En Route Pour la Cirque - an exhibition of yesterday's and today's circus, for both little kids and big adults - in this 'Year of the Circus.' Daily from 10:00 to 18:00; on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

<<B>Les Piscines, Paris Plage - here is a short list of the open-top pools topless this summer in Paris. 'Open-top' means the pool, and does not guarantee people-free sunbathing space.

- Piscine Roger-Le-Gall, 34. Boulevard Carnet, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Vincennes.
- La Butte-aux-Cailles is historic and has triple-pools, at 5. Place Paul-Verlain, Paris 13. Métro: Place de l'Italie.
- The Piscine Champerret has, like the pool at Auteuil, grass to lie on, to catch sunrays without getting wet. At 36. Boulevard de Reims, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Champerret.
- The Piscine Hébert was built in 1896 and renovated in 1992, but remains a bit small. At 2. Rue des Fillettes, Paris 18. Métro: Marx-Dormoy. Closed on 28. August until 1. September.
- Piscine Georges-Hermant, 4. Rue David-Angers, Paris 19. Métro: Danube.
- The Piscine Georges-Vallerey was built in 1924 for the Olympics and is where Johnny Weissmuller won the 400 metres before becoming Tarzan. At 148. Avenue Gambetta, Paris 20. Métro: Porte des Lilas.
- The Piscine d'Auteuil, in the Bois de Boulogne - two pools and grassy sunbathing - on the Route des Lacs à Passy, Paris 16. Métro: Ranelagh.
- Dim inside, sun outside at Boulogne-Billancourt at the Parc de Billancourt pool, 165. Rue du Vieux-Pont-de-Sèvres. Métro: Billancourt.

These are not all the pools there are, but the ones where you can get some soleil as well as your feet wet. If you can hold your breath a couple of years, Paris is thinking of dropping two floating pools into the Seine.

Lectures d'Eté - Paris' public libraries come outside to deliver reading material to avid readers lounging around in parks without anything to read. Operating in nine outdoor locations, don't be surprised to see shopping carts full of books, which can be borrowed with a library card.

Out of Town - the SNCF has teamed up with amusement parks just outside Paris toposter: poussieres d'etoiles, cite science offer all-in-one prices for transport and entries to France Miniature at Elancourt, the 'Mer de Sable' - Sea of Sand - plus the Parc Asterix, Auvers-sur-Oise, Versailles and Fontainbleau. Access to some of these requires bus transfers, so the inclusive prices are handy as well as a way to save money. Tickets available at most major train stations in Paris. Also try the SNCF's Web site or call InfoTel.: 01 53 90 20 20.

Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel - is also known as how western gardens looked at the end of the middle ages. Continues until Monday, 16. September, from 9:15 to 12:30 and from 14:00 to 17:45, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée de Moyen Age, 6. Place Paul Painlevé, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne. InfoTel.: 01 53 73 78 16.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic, clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, until Wednesday, 25. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Balloons Away! - Eutelsat is now the sponsor of the tethered balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën. These take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Pirates! - where else but in the Marine museum? Illustrated, cartooned and filmed, the 'myth' of pirates belongs to the sea and is ably presented here, assembled from various collections. Prolonged until 14. October, from 10:00 to 18:00, except Tuesdays. At the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69. There is also a combo deal that includes a Seine cruise, starting from the Porte de la Bordonnais, at the base of the Tour Eiffel. InfoTel.: 01 44 11 33 44.

'Sprague' Métro Train - the RATP will be running its antique 'Sprague' métro wagons between the stations Kléber and Raspail on Sundays. The tripposter: expo, pirates, musee marine takes 45 minutes and is accompanied by a commentary, most likely in French. Also, there are only 160 places available. Coming dates are 23 and 30. June, 21. July, 4. and 18. August, and 1. and 8. September. Métro: line 6. Reservations are very necessary. ResaTel.: 01 40 02 38 33.

Tous à la Plage - is an exhibition recalling the 'good old days' and their weekends spent at the guinguettes and bathing spots along the Marne. Closed on Monday and Friday, this exhibition continues until 31. October. The free-entry Musée Municipal is at 36. Boulevard Gallieni, in Nogent-sur-Marne. Take the RER 'A' line to Nogent, or the RER 'E,' or the métro line 1 to Château de Vincennes and then the 114 bus. InfoTel.: 01 48 75 51 25.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from the front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so not they are for the wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Balade à Vélo - is to discover on bikes the artisanal and ex-industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has added enriched oxygen 'green' tours to its program, as well as Paris-by-night tours. Bike rentals are from 3.10euro 3 sign per hour. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. There are special long-term rates for bike rentals too. Tours are from 22euro 3 sign for adults. These require reservations. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34, or email rouelibre@wanadoo.fr.

Mike's Bullfrog Bike Tours - if you need guiding in English, then Mike's may be right for you. Meet at the south leg - 'Pilier Sud' - of the Tour Eiffel for low-effort, wide-ranging tours of Paris. There are two daytime tours, at 11:00 and 15:30, and a night tour at 19:00. Exceptions this year are on Sunday, 28. July and on Sunday, 14 July. Rates are 22euro 3 sign for days, 26euro 3 sign for nights, or 44euro 3 sign for both. Also, lots of service and Paris info at Mike's HQ. This is at 24. Rue Edgar-Faure Paris 15. Métro: Dupleix. InfoTel.: 01 56 58 10 54.

Final note - Roue Libre's bike tours for English speakers are conducted by Mike's Bullfrog Bike Tours in Paris. Café Metropole Club members have recommended the evening tour which shows off Paris from another viewpoint. Final final note - Paris' other carless bike routes will be open on Sundays and holidays, from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

More usual events are listed on the regular 'Scene' page in this issue.

Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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