Paris' Long Summer

photo: art marche, edgar quinet, sunday

Every Sunday - the art market at Edgar Quinet in Montparnasse.

Has More than the Short One

Paris:- Saturday, 13. July 2002:- It may be my imagination, but there seems to be more in the way of exhibitions this summer. This week sees the addition of several items that have already begun, and continue for the rest of Paris' long summer, until October.

In addition, there are a lot of extra summer-only events listed in their own suntanned ghetto on the 'Scene d'Eté' page in this issue. These include the Paris form of drive-ins, which are walk-in outside movies. Just as well, because even in July there's no free parking.

Some items may be listed on both pages - on the grounds that some readers may look at one page and not the other. For the people who will read neither, they won't read this helpful hint either.

This year's Summer Sales in Paris - 'Les Soldes d'Eté' - continue with their bargains until Tuesday 6. August in Paris. Some truly great deals may run out of stock too.



Un Maïtre du Portrait - means Arnold Newman's photographs, to be admired until Sunday, 22. September. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 30 60.

Georges Mathieu - this abstract artist's works from the '50s and '60s are on splendidposter: expo, mathieu, jeu de paume view in this retrospective. Until Sunday, 6. October. Except for Mondays and holidays, from 12:00 to 19:00, from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galeries Nationales du Jeu du Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, inside the Tuileries, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Robert Raushenberg - is featured in a major exhibition last until Monday, 14. October. Except Tuesday, daily from 11:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Hernani - Victor Hugo's piece blew an air of youth into the theatre of his day, and this is being recreated this summer in the open air, beneath the Maison de Victor Hugo. Until Sunday, 28. July. In the Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. Try the Paris Web site for more details - which may say this event takes place at the Bibliothèque Historique in the Rue Mahler instead.

Ingres - 'Les Cartons de Vitraux,' 25 of them from the Louvre's collection, are on view continuing until Monday, 23. September. Open from 9:00 to 17:30 and until 21:30 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. The Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Rare Rocks - are always on show at the little-known museum attached to the Ecole des Mines. From Tuesday to Friday, from 13:30 to 18:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 17:00. At the Musée de Minéralogie, 60. Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 5. Line 'B' RER: Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 91 39.

Le Diaphane et l'Obscur - is an historical look back at the beginnings of the artistic uses of diapositives and projections. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday, until Sunday; 8. September. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

For the Carless - the Seine-side speedways will be liberated from car-crazies for the use of strollers, bikers and rollers on Sundays and holidays from 9:00 to 17:00, until next fall. On the right bank - from the Tuileries to Bercy and on the left bank - from the Quai Anatole France to the Quai Branly.

Going on step further, during the summer the right bank's expressway will be completely closed to traffic from Sunday, 21 July until Sunday, 18. August. This even has a name - it's called 'Paris Plage.' One exception - see below.

Tour de France - after riding around, up and down, in France for three weeks this year's one and only All-France bike race wheels off its final laps in Paris. The finishing line is on the Champs-Elysées and the day to see it will be Sunday, 28. July.

Afrique Secrète - is an exhibition drawn from this museum's own collection, meant to shed light on death rites of equatorial Africa and the initiation ceremonies practiced in west Africa. Also see the sculptures of Ndary Lo from Senegal. Both expos run until Sunday, 21. July, daily from 11:00 to 19:00. Entry charge but free on the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

The Louvre - 'The Pharaoh's Artists' are featured in a special exhibition based on the artisans of Deir- el-Medina lasting until Monday, 22. July. Open from 9:00 to 18:00 andposter: victor hugo, i'integral, thtr nord ouest until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. The Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 57 60.

OEil Pour OEil - is one exhibition in this location known for 'primitive' artworks that have picked up the name 'art brut.' The other exhibition features Jehan de Villiers, with both running side-by-side until Sunday, 28. July. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

'Voir des Etoiles' With Victor Hugo - for his bicentennial the focus is on Hugo's theatre efforts, in cooperation with the Comédie Française and the Bibliothèque Nationale. With 200 years to look back on, Hugo's works stand the test of modernism. The exhibition and performances continue until Sunday, 28. July. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Bohêmes - also takes place within the Festival Ile-de-France this year, which means it is not only in Paris. Something like 37 events are planned, beginning in late August and continuing until mid-October. Some transfer buses from Paris will be available. In Paris and the Ile-de-France region. InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

Coming In the Fall - beginning in September and October, you will find Manet and Vélasquez at the Musée d'Orsay, Matisse and Picasso, followed byposter: expo, queen mary 2, mus marine Constable, at the Grand Palais, as well as Kramer and Picasso at the Musée Picasso, and 'Rituels Tibétains' at the Guimet Museum.

Mondial de l'Automobile 2002 - it is Paris' turn to hold the biannual 'World' Motor Show, which features the world's latest wheeled creations. If you like shiny, clean cars with no milage that you may have not seen before, this is the place to see them if you don't mind huge crowds, all kicking the tires. This year, beginning on Saturday, 28. September, until Sunday, 13. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

La Geste Kongo - is a new exhibition of 'Nikisi' and 'Minkisi' - which are statuettes, singular or plural, done by the Kongo and their immediate neighbors in Africa. On view from Wednesday, 18. September, until January. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Daniel Buren - is featured in a major and extraordinary exhibition starting as a limited engagement stretching out to Monday, 23. September. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33. On view for free, see Buren's columns in the courtyard of the Palais-Royal.

Bohemia Magica - the Czech Republic has had its own special relations with Paris and these are celebrated this year, at the Musée d'Orsay and the Montparnasse Museum. Besides featuring 20th century Czech artists in Paris, the 'Bohemia Magica' program also offers a showcase for contemporary Czech artists, film makers and writers. Until the end of the year.

Marc Chagall - important works are featured in an exhibition, 'Hadassah, de l'Esquisse au Vitrail,' until Sunday, 15. September. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Bertrand Lavier - covers some area between painting and sculpture, while Philippeposter: le premier, thtr lucernaire Parreno is more multiplex, using everything he gets his hands on. Both until Sunday, 22. September. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 80.

Victor Hugo in Caricatures - 70 cartoons inspired by the person of Victor Hugo, mostly by Honoré Daumier, Gustave Doré and André Gill, await you - out of 500 caricatures that were made during Hugo's lifetime. On view until Sunday, 4. August. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80. Also see the Ministry of Culture's portal for more Victor Hugo events, such as 'Exilium Vite Est' and 'Notre Dame de Paris'' on show until August, presented at Hugo's exile home at Hauteville House on the Ile of Guernsey. InfoTel.: 01 42 27 17 89.

L'Azulejo au Portugal - is about fancy tiles, their Arabian influences, and their applications in Portugal. Much more interesting than wallpaper, as well as honoring Paris' Portuguese community. Until Saturday, 31. August. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. No entry charge. In the Salle Saint-Jean, in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

Finin - Etoffes du Mail - features designed textiles from this African country, from the 11th century to the present. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. Pavillonposter: theatre 13 des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, 101. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Poupées Folkloriques - are 500 dolls from the 30s to the 70s, in their 'traditional' dress, both French and international. On view until Sunday, 1. September, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Exile-Exile - with the 2nd 'Exile' being backwards, featuring Raoul Marek and his 'La Salle du Monde,' in three dimensions. Until Sunday, 13. October, from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Objets de Réflexion - is the name of the current exhibition in this new art space, continuing until Sunday, 18. August. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00, on weekends from 11:00 to 19:00. At Le Plateau, at the corner of the Rue des Alouettes and the Rue Carducci, Paris 19. Métro: Buttes-Chaumont. InfoTel.: 01 53 19 88 10.

Les Chemins de l'Encre - is about 20th century Chinese paintings by T'Ang Haywen. Until Monday, 9. September. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. Musée National des Arts Asiatique - Guimet, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Paris Chante Montand - is, I guess, a musical expo or an expo featuring the musical Yves Montand that continues until October. Yves Montand lived in the Place Dauphine for years, and many of the photos were taken nearby. Free entry. Except on Sundays, from 9:30 to 18:30. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 43 43.

Art ou Nature? - the outdoor part of this exhibition in the Luxembourg garden near the Orangerie continues until Saturday, 21 September. At the garden entry at 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 33 99.

Himalaya, Carrefour des Mondes - may be part of an earlier exhibition of photos hung on the fence of the Luxembourg - which still seems to be in place - but the location for this title is given as the Orangerie. To continue until Wednesday, 14 August. At the garden entry at 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 08 20 82 09 39.

Elles de Montparnasse - models and artists added up to inspiration, which is the theme of this exhibition which continues until mid- September. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Le Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Affiches de Théâtre - this expo-sale presents theatre performance posters for collectors, until September. See them in the afternoons at the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30.

Le Train Se Découvre - contains everything you ever wanted to know about trains in this exhibition lasting until Sunday, 1. September. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

i ka nyè tan - is a photographic exhibition featuring works by Seydou Keïta, Philippeposter: visite guidees paris jardins Houdjina, Zwelethu Mthethwa and Malick Sidibé. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 25. August. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 18:30. To be at the Centre Photographique d'Ile-de-France, 107. Avenue de la République, in Pontault Combault. By SNCF train for 30 minutes from Gare de l'Est, in the direction of Tournan or Coulommiers and get off at Emerainville or Pontault-Combault. InfoTel.: 01 70 05 49 80.

William Klein's Paris - after living in Paris for the past 50 years, the 'MEP' asked William Klein to photograph his hometown in 1997. Or more exactly, put together an exhibit of photos he had already taken here. Continues until Sunday, 1. September. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Photos by Nathalie Darbellay - features photos taken during the renovations of the Opéra, the Opéra-Comique and the Châtelet theatre, all once part of Paris' 'Le Grand Opéra,' of the 19th century. Except for these, the other extravagant 'grand' locations have disappeared. Being presented in the Crypte Archéologique under the parvis of Notre Dame, until Sunday, 29. September. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Crypte Archéologique, 1. Place du Parvis de Notre-Dame, on the Ile de la Cité. Métro: Cité or Saint-Michel. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 83 51.

Martine Franck - this Magnum photographer presents landscapes, portraits of artists and scenes from the 'Théâtre du Soleil,' in this exhibition of 90 photos. Until Sunday, 29. September, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays and public holidays. See the expo, then give yourself a tea in this museum's secluded garden. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Underground Jobs - in addition to the métro, other areas of underground jobs in Paris concern the Catacombs and the quarries. 'Les Métiers du Monde Souterrain' features these jobs in photos by Jean-Yves Le Roy, to continue until next March. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Portraits de Buenos Aires - is a cycle of films portraying this important and somewhat mythical South America city. Until Sunday, 28. July, but check the Web site for more details. To be followed by a cycle with the title, 'Intolérance,' until 13. October; Many other concurrent 'cycles' as well, from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française - the film museum Cinémathèque operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Hugo au Jardin - the 'Man of the Year' in Paris is on a green stage with performances until the end of September. See 'Lucrèce Borgia' in Augustposter: le travail, seine st denis and 'Le Roi s'Amuse' during September. In or at the Théâtre de Verdure du Jardin Shakespeare, in the Jardin Pré-Catalan, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Port Maillot and then bus 244, direction Reuil-Malmaison InfoTel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Opéras - are still playing in Paris at their locations in the Palais Garnier and at the Place de la Bastille. Current productions, some with July dates, include Rossini's 'Barber of Seville,' Mozart's 'Die Zauberflöte' and 'Rusalka' by Dvorak. For both opera and ballet, check the Web site, or call Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Destinations Auschwitz - an exposition of the Nazi's 'final solution' and the role played the Vichy government in France. Focussed on one particular convoy of captured members of the Resistance, on 27. April 1944. Until Sunday, 13. October. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse, Gaîté or Edgar Quinet. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Video At Arsenal - five video cabinets have been installed on this architecture museum's 2nd floor, giving a concentrated view of the current exhibit - which is named 'Identification d'un Ville. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Les Défis du Vivant - a wide-ranging cascade of exhibitions, debates and conferences inspired by the scientific musings of Joël de Rosnay - on the nature of man and his future in the 21st century. In three parts, until the end of 2003. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 19:00 on Sundays, closed on Mondays. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Poussières d'Etoiles - could also be called 'stardust,' which is something that unites you and me to the cosmos - here presented as an ultrasensory voyage with lots of special effects. Continuing until 2004, at 21:00 in winter, and at 22:00 in summer, except for Monday and Tuesday. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 70 72.

Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel - is also known as how western gardens looked at the end of the middle ages. Continues until Monday, 16. September, from 9:15 to 12:30 and from 14:00 to 17:45, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée de Moyen Age, 6. Place Paul Painlevé, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne. InfoTel.: 01 53 73 78 16.

Jardin Botanique - is Paris' 'show' garden, featuring its ordinary, its rare and its exceptional plant-life, such as a rare tree from Easter Island. This exhibition also has features for kids. Until Sunday, 30 September; daily from 9:30 to 19:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 43 28 47 63.

Balloons Away! - Eutelsat is now the sponsor of the tethered balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën. These take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

'Sprague' Métro Train - the RATP will be running its antique 'Sprague' métro wagons between the stations Kléber and Raspail on Sundays. The trip takes 45 minutes and is accompanied by a commentary, most likely in French. Also, there are only 160 places available. Coming dates are 21. July, plus 4. and 18. August, and 1. and 8. September. Métro: line 6. Reservations are very necessary. ResaTel.: 01 40 02 38 33.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - the Catacombs are open again. Note - the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from the front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so not they are for the wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Balade à Vélo - is to discover on bikes the artisanal and ex-industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has added enriched oxygen 'green' tours to its program, as well asposter: gilles hoyer Paris-by-night tours. Bike rentals are from 3.10euro 3 sign per hour. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. There are special long-term rates for bike rentals too. Tours are from 22euro 3 sign for adults. These require reservations. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34, or email rouelibre@wanadoo.fr.

Mike's Bullfrog Bike Tours - if you need guiding in English, then Mike's may be right for you. Meet at the south leg - 'Pilier Sud' - of the Tour Eiffel for low-effort, wide-ranging tours of Paris. There are two daytime tours, at 11:00 and 15:30, and a night tour at 19:00. Exceptions this year are on Sunday, 28. July and on Sunday, 14 July. Rates are 22euro 3 sign for days, 26euro 3 sign for nights, or 44euro 3 sign for both. Also, lots of service and Paris info at Mike's HQ. This is at 24. Rue Edgar-Faure Paris 15. Métro: Dupleix. InfoTel.: 01 56 58 10 54.

Final note - Roue Libre's bike tours for English speakers are conducted by Mike's Bullfrog Bike Tours in Paris. Café Metropole Club members have recommended the evening tour which shows off Paris from another viewpoint. Final final note - Paris' other carless bike routes will be open on Sundays and holidays, from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Extra, summer-only events are listed on the 'Scenes d'Eté' page in this issue.

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contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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