Constable and Jimi Hendrix

photo: top of the arc de triomphe

People's-eye view of birds on the Arc de Triomphe.

In Paris Together? Yes!

Paris:- Saturday, 12. October 2002:- Despite a couple of weeks away from this column, it has still been whittled down a bit from its former colossal size and may load in less than 14 minutes.

This is partly because I have put the exhibitions and events surrounding the semi-annual 'Mois de la Photo' on a separate page in this issue. If you intend to print either page, it won't require a half-tree's worth of paper. Print both and you are not being very 'bio-conscious.'



De Caillebotte à Picasso - features major works from the collection of Oscar Ghez, essentially a round-up of French painting from 1870 to 1950. Until 15. June 2003, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Jacquemart-Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Constable - 'Le Choix de Lucian Freud' includes 200 works with many portraits by this English painter more knownposter: modigliani, musee du luxembourg for his landscapes, in this first retrospective in Paris. Until Monday, 13. January 2003. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations (often) required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Cleamenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Electric Body - is 'backstage with Jimi Hendrix' in this anniversary exhibition with unpublished photos, and maybe a bit of guitar music too. Until Sunday, 12. January 2003, from 12:00 to 18:00 and from 10:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Monday. At the Musée de la Musique, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Aubes - or, 'Rêveries au Bord de Victor Hugo' seems to involve a guest list starting with Antonin Artaud and ending with Zhou Xiaohu, with Franz Kafka somewhere in the middle. Credit goes to Harald Szeemann for this. Until Sunday, 19. January 2003, from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Les Maîtres de la Lumière - fresh air painting from the Irvine Museum in California, features 60 landscapes from the collection. Until Saturday, 14. December. Except Sunday and Monday, from 10:30 to 18:30. At the Mona Bismarck Foundation, 34. Avenue de New York, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 38 88.

Olivier de Serres - is an art school for 'métiers d'art.' Students propose ideas and if they are selected, then they produce them. This exhibition has a selection of recent works. Until Wednesday, 23. October, from Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:30 to 18:30. At the Atelier An-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Dance Posters - this little poster gallery is at it again with a collection of high quality 'Affiches de Danse,' and this expo-sale of posters continues until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops worth your while too.

Questions d'Etiquettes - is an exhibition featuring commercial labels, from the 18th century to our time. Continuing until Saturday, 28. December. From Tuesday to Saturday; from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

'Fleurs du Mal' by Constantin Guys - Guys painted Paris ladies who were sometimes over-painted themselves, from 1860 to 1880, and this bi-centennial exhibition shows about 100 of his works. Guys was championed by Baudelaire as a 'peinture de la vie moderne' in 1863, but slighted by contemporary critics. Until Sunday, 5. January 2003, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily, except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Lire en Fête - is the annual book party for readers. This takes place in public libraries, atposter: lumiere du laque, musee carnavalet the Hôtel de Ville, at the Cité Universitaire, at the Espace des Blancs-Manteaux and at the Rue des Libraires in the 19th arrondissement. The dates are Friday, 18. October until Sunday, 20. October, and you'll find the complete program here.

Bohêmes - takes place within the Festival Ile-de-France this year, which means it is not only in Paris. Something like 37 events are planned, continuing until mid-October. Some transfer buses from Paris will be available for out-of-town locations. In Paris and the Ile-de-France region. InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

Festival d'Automne - details are slight for the 31st edition of this multi-everything series of events, lasting until Sunday, 22. December. Throughout Paris. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Festival Art Outsiders - what is assumed to be a photographic exhibition, may be something like a 'voyage to the heart of the virtual.' It continues until Sunday, 20. October. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:30. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Dancer - is the title of an exhibition of photographs by Irving Penn, on view until Sunday, 20. October. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except holidays, and Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Paris With a View - is a paraphrase of the photographic exhibition 'Paris au Plus Haut des Cieux,' which shows Philippe Muraro's affection for high places in the city. The series, begun in 1999, is not yet finished. Until Thursday, 31. October, from 10:00 to 18:00, Monday to Friday. At the location of the Cultural Affairs direction of the Ville de Paris in the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00. No entry charge.

Lumière du Laque - is an exhibition celebrating the centennial of the master lacquerer Pierre Bobot. Beginning on Wednesday, 23. October and continuing until 23. February 2003. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Modigliani - is 'L'Ange au Visage Grave' and was an impressionist genius. This exhibition has a hundred paintings, of which a third have never been shown in France. Includes drawings and sculpture. Beginning on Wednesday, 23. October and continuing until 2. March 2003. Open Tuesday to Thursday, from 10:00 to 19:00, from 10:00 to 20:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

FIAC No 29 - is the annual contemporary art fair, this year hosted by 165 galleries from 19 countries, divided into five sectors, including video. From Thursday, 24. October until Monday, 28. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Henry Clarke - Fashion Photographer - Clarke started as a 'gofer' at Vogue's New York studio, but began his real career in Paris with an exclusive contract withposter: constantin guy, mus vie romantique Condé-Nast in 1951. Working at the top until 1991, he left his works to the Musée Galliera. This year's 'Mois de la Photo' sees 200 of Clarke's works being exhibited for the first time. From Friday, 25. October until 2. March 2003 from 10:00 to 18:00, except Mondays. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 86 00.

Salon du Chocolat - is a European event, with at least 150 chocolate makers from all over. This salon includes dancers from chocolate countries - Brazil! - and an exhibition named '500 Years of Chocolate.' Beginning on Thursday, 31. October and going on until Sunday, 3. November. Hours begin at 10:00 and go as late as 22:00 on Friday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 45 03 21 26.

Rituels Tibetains - or, the 'Visions Secrèts du Ve Dalai Lama' is an exhibition organized around 56 original pages of the 'Secrèts,' accompanied by other objects, some on view here for the first time. Beginning on Wednesday, 6. November and continuing until 24. February 2003. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques / Musée Guimet - Le Panthéon Bouddhique, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Francis Picabia - this exhibition presents a huge collection from Picabia's lifetime of works, including his Dadaist period. Starting on Wednesday, 6. November and going through to 16. March 2003. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 80.

Jacqueline Kennedy - if you missed it at the time or if you missed the time entirely, see Jackie O's costumes from her period in the White House, from 1959 to 1963. This includes 70 costumes plus 200 other documents. Do you remember the 'Pill Box' hat? Starting on Wednesday, 20. November and continuing until 16/ March 2003. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 18:00, 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and on Wednesdays until 21:00. At the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Métiers d'Art - means artisans rather than artists, but more than 3000 of these essential professionals throughout France are having 'open doors' from Friday, 29. November until Sunday, 1. December. Some locations in Paris are the Maison des Metallos, Viaduc des Arts, the Musée des Arts et Métiers and ateliers in the Goutte d'Or. For the moment, more Métiers d'Art info at this Web site.

Matisse - Picasso - is a big show featuring these two painters, more or less side-by-side and they have more in common than you may think. Until Monday, 6. January 2003. Asposter: manet et velazquez usual, advance tickets are required for mornings from 10:00 to 13:00. Otherwise open from 10:00 to 19:15, and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Manet - Velasquez - in another double-header in the 'Spanish manner,' which examines art of the 19th century in this big show continuing until Sunday, 6. January 2003. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays, and 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays, but it's all closed on Monday. At the Musée d'Orsay, entry at 62. Rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Max Beckmann - is a ' Peinture dans l'Histoire,' who is worth an ultra major exhibition and your gazes until Monday, 6. January 2003. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Le Geste Kôngo - or 'Les Bois Sacrés d'Hélénon,' is a new exhibition of 'Nikisi' and 'Minkisi' - which are statuettes, singular or plural, done by the Kongo and their immediate neighbors in Africa. To be seen until Sunday, 19. January 2003. Open daily from Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Free entry on the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Bohemia Magica - the Czech Republic has had its own special relations with Paris and these are celebrated this year, at the Musée d'Orsay and the Montparnasse Museum. Besides featuring 20th century Czech artists in Paris, the 'Bohemia Magica' program also offers a showcase for contemporary Czech artists, film makers and writers. Until the end of the year.

Maquis - is a word connected to theposter: paris pekin, espace cardin Resistance, and so is this modern art exhibition by six artists whose works are in perpetual movement. Until Sunday, 24. November. Open Saturday from 14:00 to 19:00 and Sunday from 11:00 to 19:00. Free entry. Le Plateau, at the corner of the Rue des Alouettes and the Rue Carducci, Paris 19. Métro: Buttes-Chaumont. InfoTel.: 01 53 19 84 10.

Paris Chante Montand - is, I guess, a musical expo or an expo featuring the musical Yves Montand that continues until Wednesday, 30. October. Yves Montand lived in the Place Dauphine for years, and many of the photos were taken nearby. Free entry. Except on Sundays, from 9:30 to 18:30. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 43 43.

Lieux Communs au Féminin Pluriel - Balzac's literary ladies were hardly models - they tended to be monsters, but with good souls. Shown here in this exhibition of caricatures, by Monnier and Gavarni, until Sunday, 17. November. From 10:00 to 17:40 except on Mondays. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Walking Around the Luxembourg - with an exhibition titled 'Victor Hugo Promeneur du Luxembourg,' continuing until Friday, 6. December. Quite a long walk. Entry by the Rue de Médicis, to the Jardin Du Luxembourg. Paris 6. Métro: RER Luxembourg. No other info about this as yet.

poster: 2 concerts, woody allen Paris' bi-annual 'Mois de la Photo' begins late in October, has most of its exhibitions in November, and continues into December. Some exhibitions such as the one for Henry Clarke continue until early 2003. See the more complete program elsewhere in this issue soon.

Minä Sinä Me - is an exhibition featuring works by the Finnish photographers Marjaana Kella, Pekka Turunen and Heli Rekula. This exhibition continues until Wednesday, 22. December. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 18:30. To be at the Centre Photographique d'Ile-de-France, 107. Avenue de la République, in Pontault Combault. By SNCF train for 30 minutes from Gare de l'Est, in the direction of Tournan or Coulommiers and get off at Emerainville or Pontault-Combault. InfoTel.: 01 70 05 49 80.

Forum des Images - has a many multi-film cycles, from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française - the official film museum operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Les Contes d'Hoffman - by Jacques Offenbach have their times too and the last of these is at 19:30 on Thursday, 17. October. At the Opéra Bastille,poster: metamorphoses kafka, musee montparnasse 2-bis, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 78 68.

Opera I - Juliette or La Clé des Songes will be performed on dates in November at the Opéra Garnier, 1. Place de l'Opéra, Paris 9. Métro: Opéra. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 78 68. There will be several ballet performances here as well.

Operas II - Verdi's Simon Boccanegra and Puccini's Turnadot have performances dates in November, with Turnadot continuing in December. At the Opéra Bastille, 2-bis, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 78 68.

Sur la Corde Rêve - as performed by the versatile Quatuor, until 5. January 2003. Except on Mondays, times are 20:30 and at 16:00 on Sundays. At the Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: Quatre-Septembre. InfoTel.: 01 42 96 92 42.

Theatre Season Openers - include Sarah by John Murell, L'Homme en Question by Félicien Marceau, Speaking In Tongues - 'Les Couleurs de la Vie' - by Andrew Bovell, Savannah Bay by Marguerite Duras, Le Dearroi de Monsieur Peters by Arthur Miller, Une Nuit Arabe by Roland Schimmelpfennig, Le Regard by Murry Schisgal, Nuit d'Ivresse by Josiane Balasko, Hysteria by Terry Johnson, Le Limier by Anthony Shaffer and Minetti by Thomas Bernhard. Some of these pieces continue until early next year.

Rare Rocks - are always on show at the little-known museum attached to the Ecole des Mines. From Tuesday to Friday, from 13:30 to 18:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 17:00. At the Musée de Minéralogie, 60. Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 5. Line 'B' RER: Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 91 39.

Tous à la Plage - is an exhibition recalling the 'good old days' and their weekends, spent at the guinguettesposter: short film festival, 15-22 oct and bathing spots along the Marne. Closed on Monday and Friday, this exhibition continues until Thursday, 31. October. The free-entry Musée Municipal is at 36. Boulevard Gallieni, in Nogent-sur-Marne. Take the RER 'A' line to Nogent, or the RER 'E,' or the métro line 1 to Château de Vincennes and then the 114 bus. InfoTel.: 01 48 75 51 25.

Balloons Away! - the tethered Eutelsat balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Also see the exhibition 'Les Métiers du Monde Souterrain,' featuring underground jobs in photos by Jean-Yves Le Roy, to continue until March 2003. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so they are not for the wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' aroundposter: le jardin natruel, ville de paris Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has bike rentals, costing from 3.10euro 3 sign per hour. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34, or email rouelibre@wanadoo.fr.

The Sunday and holiday program called 'Paris Respire' calls for shutting the Seine-side speedway and other areas around Paris so folks without cars can stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas. Usually until 17:00 on Sundays - all winter.

Kayassine - after its world tour, Kayassine puts on its elaborate aerial ballet, until Sunday, 20. October. Thursday to Saturday at 20:30, and at 17:00 on Sunday. On the Pelouse de Reuilly in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 48 91 81 71.

Cirque Dessaccorde - does 'Les Oiseaux - Le Bord de la Monde' from Wednesday, 25. Septemberposter: fete du gout, sur les marches until Sunday, 20. October. At 16:00 on Sundays, the rest of the time except Mondays and Tuesdays at 20:30. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Année du Cirque - The 'Year of the Circus' taking place in 150 locations around France. See the Année du Cirque Web site for complete details. Also see specific items below.

Circus Cruel - brings you a paradise of 'bad-taste' every week from Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 in an old cinema reconverted into a circus-cabaret, until the end of September. Look for Le Zèbre, at 61-63. Boulevard de Belleville, Paris 11. Métro: Belleville or Coronnes. InfoTel.: 01 47 99 40 40.

Le Tradition est Notre Culture - is a bulky name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with an additional Saturday show at 20:30. Sounds like real circus. Find it at 9. Boulevard du Bois le Hêtre, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Saint-Ouen. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

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