Only Ordinary Attractions

photo: rue emile richard

Paris' Rue Emile Richard, without one address.

With Some Extraordinary Ones

Paris:- Saturday, 2. November 2002:- Without looking back at every past year, this would have been the earliest that Metropole has ever featured the beginning of the Christmas events - but an email hiccup over the weekend has caused this to be put off until the next issue. Watch for 'Noël 2002 in Paris' in the coming issue.

The still elusive 'Mois de la Photo' is also sort of in full swing - I think - but you can really find out more about this on this week's 'Mois de la Photo' page.

This page, the one I presume you are looking at, has some of the 'ordinary' events that are playing in Paris right now, or coming fairly soon.

Monday, 11. November - the Président of France, Jacques Chirac, will take part in the memorial ceremony at the Etoile's Arc de Triomphe at 11:00. A free concert featuring Brahms will be given at 16:00, at the Saint-Eustache church, Les Halles.

Salon du Patrimonie Culturel - with the theme of industrial patrimony, this edition of the salon highlights restoration of furniture and its cultural aspects. From Thursday, 7. November until Sunday, 10. November. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

Sky Meets Space - presents everything you wanted to know about amateur astronomy, including the equipment needed and the names of places where the heavens arephoto: expo modigliani, musee luxembourg visible. On Saturday, 9. November and Sunday, 10. November, from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Monday, 11. November from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 45 89 81 44.

Monet at Marmotten - an exhibition featuring artists such as Delecroix, Boudin, Cham, Guys, Forain, Morisot, Cross, Signac, Renoir and Monet of course - all on paper, from the museum's collections. From 10:00 to 18:00 until 2. February, except on Mondays. At the Musée Marmotten - Monet, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 44 96 50 33.

Lumière du Laque - is an exhibition celebrating the centennial of the master lacquerer Pierre Bobot. Also see the exhibition 'L'Art de la Soie,' featuring the productions of Prelle done for Paris subjects like the opera.. Continuing until 23. February 2003. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Modigliani - is 'L'Ange au Visage Grave' and was an impressionist genius. This exhibition has a hundred paintings, of which a third have never been shown in France. Includes drawings and sculpture. Until 2. March 2003. Open Tuesday to Thursday, from 10:00 to 19:00, from 10:00 to 20:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Rituels Tibetains - or, the 'Visions Secrèts du Ve Dalai Lama' is an exhibition organized around 56 original pages of the 'Secrèts,' accompanied by other objects, some on view here for the first time. Beginning on Wednesday, 6. November and continuing until 24. February 2003. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques / Musée Guimet - Le Panthéon Bouddhique, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Francis Picabia - this exhibition presents about 200 items from Picabia's lifetime of works, including his Dadaist period. Starting on Wednesday, 6. November and going through to 16. March 2003. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 80.

The Cremaster Cycle - Matthew Barney's complete cycle, including films, sculpture, photos and drawings, from aposter: mazout et neutron baroque imagination that mixes Greek mythology with magic, psycho stuff and hardcore music. Sounds soothing. Until Sunday, 5. January, with same times as above item. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 80.

Bohêmes - takes place within the Festival Ile-de-France this year, which means it is not only in Paris. Something like 37 events are planned, continuing until mid-October. Some transfer buses from Paris will be available for out-of-town locations. In Paris and the Ile-de-France region. InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

Carnet d'un Voyage - an exhibition of two books, the 'Carnet d'un Voyage' by André Girard and 'Libido' by Gus Bofa. Some of the original artworks in both are on view until Friday, 3. January. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:30 to 18:30. At the Atelier An-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Méditerranée, Méditerranées II - is a musical program, mostly on weekends, mostly featuring North African artists. This continues until Saturday, 14. December, with most performances at 20:30. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Festival d'Automne - details are slight for the 31st edition of this multi-everything series of events, lasting until Sunday, 22. December. Throughout Paris. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Huit Artistes Pour La Source - the purpose is to support the arts among isolated rural kids, and this is a collective exhibition of personal works by the artists in residence at La Source, who have been helping the kids. Until Saturday, 7. December, from 10:00 to 18:00 and from 14:00 to 18:00 on Saturday. Closed on Sunday. Fondation Coffim, 48. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 60 00.

Maître d'Art - is a title accorded since 1994 to exceptional 'artisans' of the arts trades. France's Ministry of Culture has just launched a new Web site that acts as a doorway to 40 of their ateliers. The Web site is in a 'test' period until the end of November. Your comments and observations will be welcome. Check out

All this column needs is a bit of neglect to make 'last chances' disappear, plus a number of other items. Your bonus this week is two smaller 'events' pages for the price of one big one. Oh happy day!

Jacqueline Kennedy - if you missed it at the time or if you missed the time entirely, see Jackie O's costumes from her period in the White House, from 1959 to 1963. This includes 70 costumes plus 200 other documents. Do you remember the 'Pill Box' hat? Starting on Wednesday, 20. November and continuing until 16. Marchposter: doit on le dire, thtr mouffetard 2003. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 18:00, 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and on Wednesdays until 21:00. At the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Métiers d'Art - means artisans rather than artists, but more than 3000 of these essential professionals throughout France are having 'open doors' from Friday, 29. November until Sunday, 1. December. Some locations in Paris are the Maison des Metallos, Viaduc des Arts, the Musée des Arts et Métiers and ateliers in the Goutte d'Or. For the moment, more Métiers d'Art info at this Web site.

Salon du Cheval 2002 - 500 exhibitors from 12 countries will be showing off horses and everything about them - performances, material, tourism, and a 'Concours Hippique' that presents ribbons to beautiful horses. Beginning on Saturday, 30. November and continuing until Monday, 16. December. Hours are 10:00 to 19:00 and until 22:00 on Tuesday, 3. December. Check the Salon du Cheval Web site for more details. At Paris-Expo, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

Concours Hippique - is the part of the Salon du Cheval when the horses show off their tricks. On Friday, 29. November and Saturday, 30 November at 20:00 and at 13:00 on Sunday, 1. December.At Paris-Expo, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

The Parade of Horses - is part of the Salon du Cheval andposter: expo le cerveau intime, cite sciences will feature 250 horses, some pulling wagons, starting out at 10:00 from the Porte de Versailles and taking a three-hour tour around central Paris. On Sunday, 1. December. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

The Night of Horses - is part of the Salon du Cheval, with horses doing their fancy stuff on two nights, Friday, 6. December and Saturday, 7. December, with both nights at 20:30. At Paris-Expo, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

Arabian Horse World Championship - is part of the Salon du Cheval will feature 100 of the world's fanciest and most expensive horses. Starting at 10:00 on Friday, 6. december and Saturday, 7. December, and on Sunday, 8. December at 11:00.At Paris-Expo, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 65 86.

Salon Nautique - is otherwise known as the 'wet show,' and features more than you wanted to see of things that float, sail, glide, dive and half-fly - on lakes, rivers, seas and oceans. Beginning on Thursday, 7. December and continuing until Saturday, 16. December. Usually from 10:00 to 19:00, with a longer evening on Tuesday, 13. December. At Paris-Expo, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 10.

Les Nuits des Musiciens - will be three nights with a lot of musicians and singers, with each night different. Patricia Petibon's 'night' starts it off on Thursday, 12 December, followed by Bireli Lagrene's 'night' on Friday, 13 December, to finish with the 'night' of Sanseverino on Saturday, 14. December. All at 20:30. At the Trianon, 80. Boulevard de Rochechouart, Paris 18. Métro: Pigalle. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 70 73.

De Caillebotte à Picasso - features major works from the collection of Oscar Ghez, essentially a round-up of French painting from 1870 to 1950. Until 15. June 2003, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Jacquemart-Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Constable - 'Le Choix de Lucian Freud' includes 200 works with many portraits by this Englishposter: mon ile deserte, thtr de la cite painter more known for his landscapes, in this first retrospective in Paris. Until Monday, 13. January 2003. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations (often) required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Matisse - Picasso - is a big show featuring these two painters, more or less side-by-side and they have more in common than you may think. Until Monday, 6. January 2003. As usual, advance tickets are required for mornings from 10:00 to 13:00. Otherwise open from 10:00 to 19:15, and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Manet - Velázquez - in another double-header in the 'Spanish manner,' which examines art of the 19th century in this big show continuing until Sunday, 6. January 2003. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays, and 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays, but it's all closed on Monday. At the Musée d'Orsay, entry at 62. Rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Max Beckmann - is a ' Peinture dans l'Histoire,' who is worth an ultra major exhibition and your gazes until Monday, 6. January 2003. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Le Geste Kôngo - or 'Les Bois Sacrés d'Hélénon,' is a new exhibition of 'Nikisi' and 'Minkisi' - which are statuettes, singular or plural, done by the Kongo and their immediate neighbors in Africa. To be seen until Sunday, 19. January 2003. Open daily from Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Free entry on the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

'Fleurs du Mal' by Constantin Guys - Guys painted Paris ladies who were sometimes over-painted themselves, from 1860 to 1880, and this bi-centennial exhibition shows about 100 of his works. Guys was championed by Baudelaire as a 'peinture de la vie moderne' in 1863, but slighted by contemporary critics. Until Sunday, 5. January 2003, from 10:00 to 18:00 daily, except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Bohemia Magica - the Czech Republic has had its own special relations with Paris and these are celebratedposter: les folles nuits berberes, cabaret sauvage this year, at the Musée d'Orsay, the Montparnasse Museum and elsewhere until the end of the year. Besides featuring 20th century Czech artists in Paris, the 'Bohemia Magica' program also offers a showcase for contemporary Czech artists, film makers and writers.

Lanterna Magika - beginning in the 1920s Czech artists were mixing art with technology, and with a hop into 'Europe' in 1989 this multi-discipline was accelerated. The 'magic' part of the lantern was its technology, more ancient than the 19th century, now riding into the 21st. Here you will see neon, projections, video, interactive installations - from the past to the future. Until Sunday, 19. January, from 12:00 to 19:00, except Mondays and holidays. Free entry. At the EDF's Espace Electra, 6. Recamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. InfoTel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Electric Body - is 'backstage with Jimi Hendrix' in this 60th anniversary exhibition with unpublished photos, some on loan from the Hendrix family, and maybe a bit of guitar music too. Until Sunday, 12. January 2003, from 12:00 to 18:00 and from 10:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Monday. At the Musée de la Musique, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Questions d'Etiquettes - is an exhibition featuring commercial labels, from the 18th century to our time. Continuing until Saturday, 28. December. From Tuesday to Saturday; from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Aubes - or, 'Rêveries au Bord de Victor Hugo' seems to involve a guest list starting with Antonin Artaud and ending with Zhou Xiaohu, with Franz Kafka somewhere in the middle. Credit goes to Harald Szeemann for this. Until Sunday, 19. January 2003, from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Les Maîtres de la Lumière - fresh air painting from the Irvine Museum in California, features 60 landscapes from the collection. Until Saturday, 14. December. Except Sunday and Monday, from 10:30 to 18:30. Atposter: expo atelier an girard the Mona Bismarck Foundation, 34. Avenue de New York, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 38 88.

Maquis - is a word connected to the Resistance, and so is this modern art exhibition by six artists whose works are in perpetual movement. Until Sunday, 24. November. Open Saturday from 14:00 to 19:00 and Sunday from 11:00 to 19:00. Free entry. Le Plateau, at the corner of the Rue des Alouettes and the Rue Carducci, Paris 19. Métro: Buttes-Chaumont. InfoTel.: 01 53 19 84 10.

Lieux Communs au Féminin Pluriel - Balzac's literary ladies were hardly models - they tended to be monsters, but with good souls. Shown here in this exhibition of caricatures, by Monnier and Gavarni, until Sunday, 17. November. From 10:00 to 17:40 except on Mondays. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Walking Around the Luxembourg - with an exhibition titled 'Victor Hugo Promeneur du Luxembourg,' continuing until Friday, 6. December. Quite a long walk. Entry by the Rue de Médicis, to the Jardin Du Luxembourg. Paris 6. Métro: RER Luxembourg. No other info about this as yet.

Dance Posters - this little poster gallery is at it again with a collection of high quality 'Affiches de Danse.' This expo-sale of posters continues until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops worth your while too.

Paris' bi-annual and elusive 'Mois de la Photo' begins late in October, has mostposter: expo lanterna magika, espace electra of its exhibitions in November, and continues into December. Some exhibitions such as the one for Henry Clarke continue until early 2003. See the more complete program elsewhere in this issue.

Minä Sinä Me - is an exhibition featuring works by the Finnish photographers Marjaana Kella, Pekka Turunen and Heli Rekula. This exhibition continues until Wednesday, 22. December. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 18:30. To be at the Centre Photographique d'Ile-de-France, 107. Avenue de la République, in Pontault Combault. By SNCF train for 30 minutes from Gare de l'Est, in the direction of Tournan or Coulommiers and get off at Emerainville or Pontault-Combault. InfoTel.: 01 70 05 49 80.

Forum des Images - has a many multi-film cycles, from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française - the official film museum operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

C'etait Bonaparte - is another one of a seemingly endless series of Big Shows produced and directed by Robert Hossein. The historian Alain Decaux has had some influence on this story, but other historians are not so sure. But it's a 'show' after all, not history. Usually at 20:30 with an additional performance at 15:00 on Saturdays, and only at 15:00 on Sundays. Except on Mondays, playing ceaselessly at the dome-shaped Palais des Sports at the Porte de Versailles. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 18 02

Opera I - Juliette or La Clé des Songes will be performed on seven dates in November at the Opéra Garnier, 1. Place de l'Opéra, Paris 9. Métro: Opéra. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 78 68. There will be several ballet performances here as well.

Operas II - Verdi's Simon Boccanegra and Puccini's Turnadot have performances on six dates in November, with Turnadot continuing in December. At the Opéra Bastille, 2-bis, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 78 68.

Sur la Corde Rêve - as performed by the versatile Quatuor, until 5. January 2003. Except on Mondays, times are 20:30 and at 16:00 on Sundays. At the Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: Quatre-Septembre. InfoTel.: 01 42 96 92 42.

Rare Rocks - are always on show at the little-known museum attached to the Ecole des Mines. From Tuesday to Friday, from 13:30 to 18:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 17:00. At the Musée de Minéralogie, 60. Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 5. Line 'B' RER: Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 91 39.

Balloons Away! - the tethered Eutelsat balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Also see the exhibition 'Les Métiers du Monde Souterrain,' featuring underground jobs in photos by Jean-Yves Le Roy, to continue until March 2003. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, fromphoto: expo prague, tuileries in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so they are not for the wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has bike rentals, costing from 3.10euro 3 sign per hour. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34, or email

The Sunday and holiday program called 'Paris Respire' calls for shutting the Seine-side speedway and other areas around Paris so folks without cars can stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas. Usually until 17:00 on Sundays - all winter.

The Circus!

Circus listings are dropped this week, in anticipation of them being included on the 'Noël 2002' page in next week's issue.

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