It's Party Time

photo: stands, figaro, luxembourh

Stands set up for performances of Figaro in the
Luxembourg garden.

For Residents and Visitors

Paris:- Saturday, 5. July 2003:- There are two 'Scene' columns in this issue because all of the extra summer items wouldn't fit in just one. To help your planning, some special events are included below, such as the Fête Nationale - Bastille Day.

What you don't find on this page, will be on the 'Scene I page. This page should have many special and summer items, while the 'Scene I' page has the typically current 'Scene' items.

As of this moment, the issues causing strikes by performers and stagehands have not been satisfactorily settled. Some events, such as the open-air movies at the Villette park may be affected. Or, everybody may decide that the 'show must go on,' and there will be no problem. But there are other issues coming along, and the tendancy to shove today's problems into the future may not come into play this time.

If the festival season turns into a total shambles, there is always Paris Plage to fall back on. This year it will even have 'siesta' areas for this 'falling back.'

Contents of Scene I this Week
  • This Week's 'Openers'
  • Last Chances
  • Coming Events, Exhibitions, Salons
  • Major Events, Exhibitions, Salons
  • More Events, Exhibitions, Salons
  • Photo, Cinema and Multimedia
  • Dance, Music, Opera, Theatre
  • Culture, History, Science
  • Commercial Salons

90th Tour de France - this bicycle classic started in 1903 so this is its centennial year. This year's 'tour' started from Paris on Saturday, 5. July, 'Le Tour' runs around France for three weeks before returning to the finish line on the Champs-Elysées on Sunday, 27. July. Paris 8. InfoTel.: 01 41 33 15 00.

Photography at the Turn of the Century - 'Du Pictorialisme à Engènebrochure: figaro Atget,' will be a major exhibition to watch for beginning Tuesday, 15. July, continuing until Sunday, 19. October. Big names as well as unknowns are represented. From 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, entry Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Vivre C'est Habiter - is a 'big show' lacking details other than the dates, from Thursday, 17. July until Saturday, 8. November. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00, in summer possibly until 21:30, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06. ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

L'Incroyable Rallye - starts at 11:00 on Saturday, 12. July at the Mairie of the 11th, and resumes on Sunday at 10:00 at the same place. A reception follows between 17:00 and 19:30, and the awards are given out from 19:30 until 02:00 on Monday, followed by a 'Grand Bal' the same day. Check out L'Incroyable Rallye if you don't believe this. 12. Place Léon-Blum, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. InfoTel.: 01 43 57 49 85.

Les Sapeurs-Pompiers - have a tradition of opening their firehalls for celebrating the Fête de la Bastille. The 'bals' will be held on the evenings of Sunday, 13. Julyposter: paris cinema and Monday, 14. July. At various locations in Paris and throughout France. Initially held in 1937, the first 'bal' lasted until the afternoon of the next day, and everyone at it missed the Champs-Elysées parade.

Mairie de Paris - the city hall organizes its Bastille fête at the Place de la Bastille, because there's enough room for it. During the evening of Sunday, 13. July. Paris X. Métro: InfoTel.: 01

Place Maurice Chevalier - why this 'bal populaire' gets a special mention I know not. On Sunday, 13 July, from 19:00 to 23:00. Paris 20. Métro: Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 33 50 50.

Military Parade - this always takes place on the whole Champs-Elysées, from Etoile to the Place de la Concorde. The parade begins at 10:00 and will last until about 11:30. This is a rain or shine affair, so be prepared. To be on Monday, 14. July. The official viewing stand is usually set up at the Place de la Concorde. Paris 8. Métros: count on the métro stops at Etoile, George V, Franklin Roosevelt, Clemenceau and Concorde being closed - arrive by foot or from the next nearest ones.

Fireworks - fans will have their night on Monday, 14. July, beginning about 22:30. The rockets will be fired off from the Trocadéro's gardens, so the best place to be is across the Seine on the Champ de Mars, with possibly 350,000 other Fête Nationale fans. The show usually lasts about 40 minutes, and is held rain or shine. Paris 7. Métros: Alma-Marceau, Ecole Militaire, Bir Hakeim or La Motte-Picquet- Grenelle - also the RER 'C' line stops of Pont de l'Alma and Champ de Mars.

Soldes d'Eté - if there's anything left, buy your Summer 2003 gear at deep discounts, continuing with ever deeper discounts until Saturday, 2. August, probably long after nothing is left. 'First come' gets the best stuff. These dates are for Paris and may vary elsewhere in France.

Paris Plage - will be bigger and better replay of 2002's smash hit, to feature three kilometres of right-bank beach front beside the Seine especially for pedestrians, sunbathers, bikers, strollers, rollers - from Sunday, 20. July until Sunday, 17. August. There will be China palms and other plants, more sand, more striped deckchairs, more water, more entertainment and dance floors, with some pétanque players, and 'clubs' forphoto: tour de france expo, salon d'acceuil kids, as well as refreshment kiosks. Fishing and tango lessons are also in the program. In principle, most everything is free and open 24 hours daily, but most entertainments will shut down by 22:30. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75. See this week's Café column for further details.

Display from Tour de France expo in the Hôtel de Ville.

Paris Jazz Festival - cool music in the park every Saturday and Sunday from 15:00, with this year's edition continuing until the last set on Sunday, 27. July. Major artists will be on hand, so the trip out east will be worth it. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Un Eté Russe à Montmartre - could produce all sorts of surprises, but I have no details yet. Continuing until Monday, 29. September - on Montmartre. Paris 18. Métros: Abbesses or Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

Musique Côté Jardin - are a series of free concerts performed on the bandstands in Paris' parks. Continuing until Sunday, 28. September. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Fête des Tuileries - sticky food and tricky rides with lots of boom-boom sounds. From Saturday, 21. June until Sunday, 31. August. Daily from 11:00 to midnight, and to 01:00 on Friday, Saturday and the eves of holidays such as Sunday, 13. July. In the Tuileries garden.Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries InfoTel.: 01 46 27 52 29.

Fête des Loges - is the same as above, but with more food on offer, and is set in theposter: batobus forest at Saint-Germain-en-Laye. From Friday, 27. June until Sunday, 17. August. Daily from 15:00. RER: Saint-Germain-en-Laye. InfoTel.: 01 30 87 20 88.

Paris Cinéma - in 34 cinemas spread thoughout Paris' 20 arrondissements. Films from Cannes 2003 and films not shown before are on the program. With a unique entry price of 4euro 3 sign, this continues until Tuesday, 15. July. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 49 61 or 08 20 00 75 75.

Meet International Films - continues until Sunday, 13. July. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 63 24. This has been listed as a separate item, but may be related to the above 'Paris-Cinéma.'

Walk-In Outside Fresh-Air Movies - are now a roofless tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a big grassy place for you to watch movies projected on a huge inflated screen. High quality 'Monde d'Orages' films roll nightly except Mondays from Tuesday, 8. July until Sunday, 24. August; and start about 22:00, when it's dark enough. Deckchairs are also available. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

20th Chopin Festival - is for you if you feel like hearing a little music in a comfy park. Until Monday, 14. July. Times are in the afternoons and evenings. At the Orangerie de Bagatelle, Route de Reine-Marguerite, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métros: Pont de Neuilly, and bus 43 or from Porte Maillot, and bus 244. Park entry - 1.50euro 3 sign. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19, Fax.: 01 40 67 70 08.

L'Octuor de France - offers chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle with several concerts beginning on Thursday, 17. July and continuing until Sunday, 17. August. Calculate concert prices with the extra 1.50euro 3 sign for entry to the park. From Thursday, 18. July until Thursday, 15. August. I can't figure these dates out. In the Parc de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métros: Pont de Neuilly, and bus 43, or from Porte Maillot, and bus 244. InfoTel.: 01 42 29 07 83.

Quartier d'Eté - offers a huge variety of events to make up this summer's Paris program of artistic treats - from techno to opera to circuses - to be performed on streets, places and unusual locations throughout the city. This program - so far, incomplete - seems to begin on Thursday, 17. July. Some of these events are free and others are not. The Quartier d'Eté Web site should have complete details.

Moonlight Cinéma - all around Paris, as might falls there will be open-sky film projections, featuring 18 movies shot on location in the city. Starting on Wednesday, 6. August and continuing until Sunday, 24. August. 'Moulin Rouge' opens the the series, on Montmartre. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 18.

Singing In Paris - 50 years worth of chansons from the memories of France's most popular performers - Edith Piaf, Charles Trénet, Yves Montand, Charles Aznavour, in a hôtel in the Marais. From Thursday, 7. August to Saturday, 9. August, at 19:00. At the Atrium Musical Magne, 12. Rue Charlot, Paris 3. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. Tickets available at agencies.

<<B>Les Piscines, Paris Plage - here is a short list of the open-top pools topless this summer in Paris. 'Open-top' means the pool, and does not guarantee people-free sunbathing space.

- Piscine Roger-Le-Gall, 34. Boulevard Carnet, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Vincennes.
- La Butte-aux-Caillesposter: paris bibliotheques is historic and has triple-pools, at 5. Place Paul-Verlain, Paris 13. Métro: Place de l'Italie.
- The Piscine Champerret has, like the pool at Auteuil, grass to lie on, to catch sunrays without getting wet. At 36. Boulevard de Reims, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Champerret.
- The Piscine Hébert was built in 1896 and renovated in 1992, but remains a bit small. At 2. Rue des Fillettes, Paris 18. Métro: Marx-Dormoy. Closed on 28. August until 1. September.
- Piscine Georges-Hermant, 4. Rue David-Angers, Paris 19. Métro: Danube.
- The Piscine Georges-Vallerey was built in 1924 for the Olympics and is where Johnny Weissmuller won the 400 metres before becoming Tarzan. At 148. Avenue Gambetta, Paris 20. Métro: Porte des Lilas.
- The Piscine d'Auteuil, in the Bois de Boulogne - two pools and grassy sunbathing - on the Route des Lacs à Passy, Paris 16. Métro: Ranelagh.
- Dim inside, sun outside at Boulogne-Billancourt at the Parc de Billancourt pool, 165. Rue du Vieux-Pont-de-Sèvres. Métro: Billancourt.

These are not all the pools there are, but the ones where you can get some soleil as well as your feet wet. If you can hold your breath a couple of years, Paris is thinking of dropping two floating pools into the Seine.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic,poster: disney, ratp clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, continuing until Wednesday, 24. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

La Parade des Petits Soldats - is an exhibition for kid's dreams with 5000 lead soldiers that were once for play but are now only seen in collections. This exhibition also has musical accompaniment. Prolonged until Sunday, 5. October. From 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: La Tour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Trésors du Titanic - is an exhibition of objects found on the deep seabed surrounding the wreck of the Titanic. Until Sunday, 31. August. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00. Also see the exhibitions 'Images,' 'Le Cerveau Intime,' 'Jeux sur Je,' 'L'Homme et Ses Gènes,' 'Chimie Naturellement' and 'Aluminium.'

Himalaya - Tibet - or, 'Le Choc des Continents' is an important exhibition, most likely featuring very high mountains. Continuing until Monday, 4. August. Closed Tuesdays, its hoursposter: thtr, on tire bien sur les lapins are from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 22:00. At the Muséum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 36 00.

Ca C'est du Cirque - is the name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with a second Saturday show at 20:30 twice a month. Other performances on all holidays. Most likely like real circus. Find it at Rue de la Haie-Coq, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Chapelle or bus 65. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

In the Land of the Clowns - by the Cirque Phenix Junior, just right for kids 4 years old and up. Until Monday, 14. July. On Wednesday at 14:45 and at 14:30 and 16:30 on weekends and holidays. In the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 19 10.

Ice Skating - is now open to the public at the POPB, or Bercy for short. The actual name is the Sonja-Henie Patinoire. Open Wednesday, from 15:00 to 18:00, Friday from 21:30 to 00:30, Saturday from 15:00 to 18:00 and 21:30 to 00:30, and on Sunday from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 18:00. Entry on north, garden side. 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 40 02 60 60.

Balloons Away! - the tethered Eutelsat balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions and fog news call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Catacombs - note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so they are not for the wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Les Escapades d'Aligre - are for discovering the artisanal and ex-industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on bikes. On the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has bike rentals, not costing much per hour or day. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. The year-round HQ is openposter: roi des papas, fm radio from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34. Roue Libre's bike for rent on Paris Plage may be slightly cheaper.

Batobus - is the scheduled boat-bus service on the Seine that docks at many major attractions. With an all-day ticket you can hop on and off when and where you want. The service runs upstream along the left bank from the Pont d'Iéna near the Tour Eiffel, to the eastern tip of the Ile Saint-Louis before returning downstream along the right bank. Like city buses on the streets, the Batobus offers no babbling sightseeing commentary. For adults, 10euro 3 sign per day and 12.50 for two. Kids, about half price.

For the Sunday and holidays' program called 'Paris Respire,' the Seine-side speedways and other areas around Paris will be closed to motor traffic so slower folks without powered wheels can stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas. Usually until 17:00 on Sundays, except during the four weeks of Paris Plage when it is carless 24 hours a day.

Nuit Blanche - is not Paris' only sleepless 'Nuit Blanche' during the summer, but its second official one in October. Beginning about 19:30 on Saturday, 4. October and continuing until - who knows? - 8:00 on Sunday. All Paris will be be involved. This year more of the 40 events will be out in the open, rather than in closed spaces. Last year's overly successful event showed that it needs lots of elbow-room. The métro should be running all night, thanks to a sleepless RATP. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

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Need to Know More?
Here are the major Web sites, other than Metropole:-
The Tourist Office - InfoTel.: 08 92 68 31 12.
Public Transport - RATP - InfoTel.: 08 92 68 46 14.
The Ville de Paris - InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.
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contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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