horz line

Autumn 2OO3

photo: top of escalator, etoile, arc triomphe

For many, the first view of the Arc de Triomphe.

Some, Few Highlights

Paris:- Saturday, 6. September 2003:- This autumn's events have started to tumble in. This week there are some 'really big shows' included - some of which continue until early next year.

I hope it is needless to mention that all of the items included in this column are a fraction of the events going on or to come in Paris and the Ile-de-France region. On the city's publically accessible Web site you should be able to find 104 exhibitions, six operas, 28 salons, and no less than 83 classical or contemporary music concerts listed - for a total of 560 items.

Autour de Notre Dame - is a historic exhibition with Notre Dame as its focal point. Organized by the Action Artistique de la Ville de Paris, this continues until Saturday, 27. September. From 12:00 to 18:00, to 19:30 on Thursday, and from 14:00 to 17:00 on Saturday. In the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, 2. Place Baudoyer, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Free entry.

The Return of Métropotamie - is an exhibition of postcards, I think - by Alain 1st and Saint Sébastien de Métropotamie, who have worked in their 10 square-metre studio since 1980, producing a 'mégalomanie' with an unlimited horizon dominated by sausage-makers, or artworks. Whatever it is, or they are, there are 30 works on show until Sunday, 21. September. The café is worth a look too. At the café Au Vrai Paris, 60. Rue Didot, Paris 14. Métro: Alésia or Plaisance. InfoTel.: 06 80 60 82 28.

Tintin, Le Temple du Soleil - is the musical comedy version of the comic book and is probably a pretty big show. Starting on Friday, 19. September, regular showtimesposter: apache zazou, accordeon are 20:30, with 15:00 and 20:30 on Wednesday and Saturday, and at 15:30 on Sunday. No shows on Monday or Tuesday. At the Hippodrôme d'Auteuil, Allée des Fortifications, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.: 01 42 61 39 95.

Cirque Eloize - presents 'Nomade,' beginning on Tuesday, 16. September, and continues until Sunday, 19. October. No show Mondays, otherwise at 20:30, and at 16:00 on Sunday. At the Pelouse de Reuilly, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Charenton InfoTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Journées Européennes du Patrimonie - for this 20th version, this year's theme is 'Patrimonie Spirituel.' It means 'open doors,' especially for churches, throughout Europe - beginning on Saturday, 20. September but mostly on Sunday, 21. September. Paris, France, and Europe. InfoTel.: 08 20 56 15 61.

Soirée du Patrimonie - is linked to the above, but involves a historical tour named 'Paris du Soleil aux Lumières,' from 20;00 to midnight on Sunday, 21. September. Perhaps starting at the Place des Vosges, perhaps ending at Saint-Sulpice with emphasis on the 16th and 17th centuries. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Techno Parade - is the colorful and loud street version of 'Les Rendez-Vous Electroniques' - see in 'Last Chance' below - to roll loudly through Paris on Saturday, 13. September, from 13:00 to 20:00. Get everything you need to know from the Technopol Web site. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 03 96.

Festi-Toys - toys of legend, toys for collectors, on view for one day only, on Sunday, 14. September, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the POPB, or Bercy for short, 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 23 01.

Festival d'Ile de France - is subtitled 'Le Paradis et Ses Jardins.' This annual festival winds up on Sunday, 12. October with a sort of 'chambre' opera at the Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord, and a one act Andalusian ballet at Le Trianon - all within the 'Djazair' program. If none of this makes sense, check the Festival d'Ile de France Web site. In Paris and the Ile de France region. ResaTel.: 08 03 07 50 75.

La Vie à la Campagne - is with 'sculptée par Bouchard,' as the subtitle. Another part features 'Femmes.' Until Saturday, 13. September. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Alger - is an exhibition about urban and architectural aspects of Algiers. Continuing until Sunday, 14. September. Alsoposter: expo, la cle du champs, jeu de paume see Une Provocation Constructive for the same dates. Open from 10:00 to 17:30 except on Tuesday. At the Palais de la Porte Dorée, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Jim Dine and Sarah Moon - both have exhibitions of their photo works continuing until Sunday, 14. September. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Sous La Plage - with 'Piratages Meets Cake & Milk,' started on with the Fête de la Musique. Usually from 14:00 to 21:00. Last date is Sunday, 14. September. In the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. InfoTel.: 01 43 49 68 68.

Fernand Pouillon, Architect - is featured in an exhibition for his work on the 'new' cities of Pantin, Montrouge, Boulogne-Billancourt and Meudon-la-Fôret - which were revolutionary in their times. Also see the exhibition, '30 Years of the Périphérique,' until Sunday, 14. September. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Jazz à La Villette - keeps the beat with until ending up with concerts by the Bill Carrouthers Trio and the Michel Portal Quartet, beginning at 18:00 on Sunday, 14. September. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 08 03 07 50 75.

Les Rendez-Vous Electroniques - this 6th edition promises to be a sort of major event, musically, I think. It continues until Sunday, 14. September. Grab more info from the Technopol Web site. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 03 96.

Labyrinthes - have been added to the Bagatelle park, for you to get lost in green. Until Sunday, 14. September, from 9:00 to 19:00, and not all night long. Possibly closed on Tuesdays, unless it's summer. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry - 1.50€. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19.

Hommage aux Amis du Musée Delacroix - is an 'at home' with the painter Eugène Delacroix, in a quiet place in the Quartier Latin. Until Monday, 15. September. Open from 9:30 to 17:00 daily except Tuesday. At the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue Furstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

Janine Janet - Metamorphoses - as seen on posters, this exhibition features sculptures made of plants. Until Sunday, 21. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, Hôtel de Guénégaud, 60. Rue des Archives, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 92 40.

Russes? - Russian artists from St. Petersburg who were in Paris at the beginning of the 19th century left their marks here. This is part of 'Un Eté Russe à Montmartre.' Until Sunday, 21. September. Open from 10:00 to 12:30 and from 13:30 to 18:00, but closed on monday. At the Musée de Montmartre, 12. Rue Cortot, Paris 18. Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. InfoTel.: 01 46 06 61 11.

Vus par Zadkine - Vincent and Théo Van Gogh, as seen by sculptor Ossip Zadkine. Until Sunday, 21. September, from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Lizensheng - even if I've spelled the name wrong, the photos in this exhibition are of China'sposter: expo, voici des ailes, mus arts metiers Cultural Revolution. Continuing until Sunday, 21. September. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint -Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Stone Vines - is a photographic exhibition showing the frequent use of vines in stone as architectural decoration in Paris. This exhibition may continue beyond Sunday, 21. September, from 10:00 to 18:00 except on Monday and Tuesdays. Use this as a excuse to visit the Musée du Vin, Rue des Eaux, 5. Square Charles Dickens, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. InfoTel.: 01 45 25 63 28.

Jacques-Henry Lartigue - is on show with an important photo exhibition continuing until Monday, 22. September. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Chen Zen - is the author of 'Silence Sonore,' an exhibition to be on view beginning Wednesday, 1. October and continuing until Sunday, 18. January 2004. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from noon to midnight. Entry: 3 or 5€. Palais de Tokyo, site of contemporary art creation. At 13. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 54 01.

Fire Works - the occasion may be part of the Festival d'Automne, but these must be the fireworks of Friday, 19. September. In case of bad weather, the name changes to the fireworks of Saturday, 20. September. Either day, at sundown. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenueposter: expo mail art, mao by matt rose Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Mail-Art - decorated envelopes existed before La Poste itself, but have really inspired artists of the 20th century, and continue in the 21st. Starting off with a 'Network' in 1962, modern development stops at nothing, like postmen themselves. On exhibit, the works of six mail-artists plus the works of a large international group. From Monday, 22. September until Saturday, 1. November. At L'Espace Beauregard, 6. Rue Beauregard, Paris 2. Métro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis or Bonne-Nouvelle.

At right, Matt Rose's 'mail art' Mao. ©2003

Festival d'Automne - every year, without details, except perhaps on the Web site. From Wednesday, 24. September until Tuesday, 23. December. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Edouard Vuillard - is featured in a major exhibition this fall. From Thursday, 25. September to Sunday, 4. January 2004. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations [often] required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Cocteau - is presented in a big exhibition starting Thursday, 25. September, continuing to Monday, 5. January 2004. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesday. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Parures de Tête - no details yet, but not to be missed. From Thursday, 25. September until July of 2004. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, except Monday and Tuesday. Entry charge but free the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Fête des Jardins - instead of having a party in a garden, Paris gardens have a party from Friday, 26. September until Sunday, 28. September. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

La Route du Poisson - last held on the occasion of 'Horse Days' in 2001, the descendants of the draft-horses that used to bring fish to Paris daily from the Channel ports will be in action and on display. This weekend event, begins on Friday, 26. September in Boulogne-sur-Mer at 8:00. The draft-horses will show off on Sunday, 28. September from 10:00 to 19:00. Check out the Route du Poisson Web site. At the Vincennes racetrack, 2. Route de la Ferme, Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-Vincennes or Charenton-Ecoles. InfoTel.: 03 44 38 54 50.

Art Paris - Paris best galleries show off their artists' latest works in this commercial show and sale. From Friday, 26. September until Monday, 29. September, from 11:00 to 20:00, until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 56 26 52 00.

Paris-Versailles - the 28th edition of this marathon from the base of the Tour Eiffel to Louis' place in Versailles. From 10:00 on Sunday, 28. September. Paris 7. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 30 21 10 25.

Rowing Through Paris - I have missed mentioning this watersports event in the past because it is usually over before I wake up. Times given are 06:30 to 8:00, but I think the start may be at 8:15. Check the Web site to find out where exactly. The date for it is Sunday, 28. September. On the Seine in Paris. InfoTel.: 01 48 75 75 10.

Botticelli - subtitled, 'De Laurent Le Magnifique à Savonarole,' will be a major exhibition brought to Paris by the Sénat. Beginning on Wednesday, 1. October and continuingposter: fest european, temps d'images until 22. February 2004. Open Tuesday to Thursday, from 10:00 to 19:00, from 10:00 to 20:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Gauguin - Tahiti - will feature paintings from Gauguin's south seas atelier in this big show. To start on Thursday, 2. October and continue until Monday, 19. January. Open from 10:00 to 20:00 and until 22:00 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations (often) required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17. RésaTel.: 08 92 68 46 94.

Pyramid of Shoes - is to remind all of us about the effects of all the anti-personal mines left lurking all over the world, but mostly in the least well-off parts of it. On Saturday, 4. October, from 10:00 to 20:00. At Trocadéro, Paris 16 Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 08 11 88 87 86.

Nuit Blanche - this is not Paris' first sleepless 'Nuit Blanche,' but it is this year's new, improved version. To be more 'outside' than last year, in six parts of the city. Beginning about 19:30 on Saturday, 4. October and continuing, maybe, all day on Sunday. The Métros should be running all night as well as some RER lines. Paris' own Web site should have detailed info. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe - this is the premier flat race of the year in Paris, and it draws an international crowd of racy spectators. On Sunday, 5. October, the racing starts at 13:30, with the Prix de l'Arc race expected to run about 17:00. At the Hippodrôme de Longchamp, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Porte Maillot, then RATP bus 244. InfoTel.: 08 21 21 32 13.

Iness Mêzel - will appear in concert at the Café de la Danse to demonstrate, with energy, dynamism and charm, the colors of Berber Africa, hot with groovy music containing strong impressions of Afro Jazz, accompanied with a voice used to widen-open spaces. One date only, on Monday, 6. October at 20:00. At the Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille or Ledru-Rollin. ResaTél.: 01 47 00 57 59.

De Delacroix à Renoir - Algeria as seen by French painters of the past is the focus of this exhibition. To begin on Tuesday, 7. October and continue until Sunday, 18. January. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 19:00 on weekends. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Gina Lollobrigida - sculptures of or by, La Lollobrigida? From Friday, 10. October until Sunday, 7. December. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 17:00. At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Pont-Neuf. InfoTel.: 01 40 46 56 66.

Piaf, la Môme de Paris - follows Yves Montand's popular show in the city hall's free reception area. Friday, 10. October until Friday, 30. January. Except on Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 49 61. Free entry.

Fête des Vendanges - is the annual one on Montmartre, on the weekend of 11 and 12. October. Parade, on Sunday, starts on the Boulevard de Rochechouart at 14:00 and winds around the Butte until reaching the vineyard in the Rue Saint-Vincent about 16:30, for the ceremony of the new wine. This year's theme is 'Le temps des cerises.' Paris 18. Métro: Anvers, Pigalle, Abbesses or Lamarck-Caulincourt. InfoTel.: 01 46 06 00 32. Montmartre's own Paris 18 Net may have more details.

La Semaine du Goût - Taste Week - France shows off its talents with creative things to put in your mouth, that do more than keep you merely alive. Tastings, and instructions, everywhere for the week beginning on Monday, 13. October, until Sunday, 19. October. Find more details here.

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