horz line

Autumn 2OO3

photo: top of escalator, etoile, arc triomphe

For many, the first view of the Arc de Triomphe.

Some, Few Highlights

Paris:- Saturday, 6. September 2003:- This autumn's events have started to tumble in. This week there are some 'really big shows' included - some of which continue until early next year.

I hope it is needless to mention that all of the items included in this column are a fraction of the events going on or to come in Paris and the Ile-de-France region. On the city's publically accessible Web site you should be able to find 104 exhibitions, six operas, 28 salons, and no less than 83 classical or contemporary music concerts listed - for a total of 560 items.



Autour de Notre Dame - is a historic exhibition with Notre Dame as its focal point. Organized by the Action Artistique de la Ville de Paris, this continues until Saturday, 27. September. From 12:00 to 18:00, to 19:30 on Thursday, and from 14:00 to 17:00 on Saturday. In the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, 2. Place Baudoyer, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Free entry.

The Return of Métropotamie - is an exhibition of postcards, I think - by Alain 1st and Saint Sébastien de Métropotamie, who have worked in their 10 square-metre studio since 1980, producing a 'mégalomanie' with an unlimited horizon dominated by sausage-makers, or artworks. Whatever it is, or they are, there are 30 works on show until Sunday, 21. September. The café is worth a look too. At the café Au Vrai Paris, 60. Rue Didot, Paris 14. Métro: Alésia or Plaisance. InfoTel.: 06 80 60 82 28.

Tintin, Le Temple du Soleil - is the musical comedy version of the comic book and is probably a pretty big show. Starting on Friday, 19. September, regular showtimesposter: apache zazou, accordeon are 20:30, with 15:00 and 20:30 on Wednesday and Saturday, and at 15:30 on Sunday. No shows on Monday or Tuesday. At the Hippodrôme d'Auteuil, Allée des Fortifications, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.: 01 42 61 39 95.

Cirque Eloize - presents 'Nomade,' beginning on Tuesday, 16. September, and continues until Sunday, 19. October. No show Mondays, otherwise at 20:30, and at 16:00 on Sunday. At the Pelouse de Reuilly, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Charenton InfoTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Journées Européennes du Patrimonie - for this 20th version, this year's theme is 'Patrimonie Spirituel.' It means 'open doors,' especially for churches, throughout Europe - beginning on Saturday, 20. September but mostly on Sunday, 21. September. Paris, France, and Europe. InfoTel.: 08 20 56 15 61.

Soirée du Patrimonie - is linked to the above, but involves a historical tour named 'Paris du Soleil aux Lumières,' from 20;00 to midnight on Sunday, 21. September. Perhaps starting at the Place des Vosges, perhaps ending at Saint-Sulpice with emphasis on the 16th and 17th centuries. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Techno Parade - is the colorful and loud street version of 'Les Rendez-Vous Electroniques' - see in 'Last Chance' below - to roll loudly through Paris on Saturday, 13. September, from 13:00 to 20:00. Get everything you need to know from the Technopol Web site. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 03 96.

Festi-Toys - toys of legend, toys for collectors, on view for one day only, on Sunday, 14. September, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the POPB, or Bercy for short, 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 23 01.

Festival d'Ile de France - is subtitled 'Le Paradis et Ses Jardins.' This annual festival winds up on Sunday, 12. October with a sort of 'chambre' opera at the Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord, and a one act Andalusian ballet at Le Trianon - all within the 'Djazair' program. If none of this makes sense, check the Festival d'Ile de France Web site. In Paris and the Ile de France region. ResaTel.: 08 03 07 50 75.

La Vie à la Campagne - is with 'sculptée par Bouchard,' as the subtitle. Another part features 'Femmes.' Until Saturday, 13. September. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Alger - is an exhibition about urban and architectural aspects of Algiers. Continuing until Sunday, 14. September. Alsoposter: expo, la cle du champs, jeu de paume see Une Provocation Constructive for the same dates. Open from 10:00 to 17:30 except on Tuesday. At the Palais de la Porte Dorée, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Jim Dine and Sarah Moon - both have exhibitions of their photo works continuing until Sunday, 14. September. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Sous La Plage - with 'Piratages Meets Cake & Milk,' started on with the Fête de la Musique. Usually from 14:00 to 21:00. Last date is Sunday, 14. September. In the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. InfoTel.: 01 43 49 68 68.

Fernand Pouillon, Architect - is featured in an exhibition for his work on the 'new' cities of Pantin, Montrouge, Boulogne-Billancourt and Meudon-la-Fôret - which were revolutionary in their times. Also see the exhibition, '30 Years of the Périphérique,' until Sunday, 14. September. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Jazz à La Villette - keeps the beat with until ending up with concerts by the Bill Carrouthers Trio and the Michel Portal Quartet, beginning at 18:00 on Sunday, 14. September. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 08 03 07 50 75.

Les Rendez-Vous Electroniques - this 6th edition promises to be a sort of major event, musically, I think. It continues until Sunday, 14. September. Grab more info from the Technopol Web site. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 03 96.

Labyrinthes - have been added to the Bagatelle park, for you to get lost in green. Until Sunday, 14. September, from 9:00 to 19:00, and not all night long. Possibly closed on Tuesdays, unless it's summer. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry - 1.50€. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19.

Hommage aux Amis du Musée Delacroix - is an 'at home' with the painter Eugène Delacroix, in a quiet place in the Quartier Latin. Until Monday, 15. September. Open from 9:30 to 17:00 daily except Tuesday. At the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue Furstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

Janine Janet - Metamorphoses - as seen on posters, this exhibition features sculptures made of plants. Until Sunday, 21. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, Hôtel de Guénégaud, 60. Rue des Archives, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 92 40.

Russes? - Russian artists from St. Petersburg who were in Paris at the beginning of the 19th century left their marks here. This is part of 'Un Eté Russe à Montmartre.' Until Sunday, 21. September. Open from 10:00 to 12:30 and from 13:30 to 18:00, but closed on monday. At the Musée de Montmartre, 12. Rue Cortot, Paris 18. Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. InfoTel.: 01 46 06 61 11.

Vus par Zadkine - Vincent and Théo Van Gogh, as seen by sculptor Ossip Zadkine. Until Sunday, 21. September, from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Lizensheng - even if I've spelled the name wrong, the photos in this exhibition are of China'sposter: expo, voici des ailes, mus arts metiers Cultural Revolution. Continuing until Sunday, 21. September. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint -Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Stone Vines - is a photographic exhibition showing the frequent use of vines in stone as architectural decoration in Paris. This exhibition may continue beyond Sunday, 21. September, from 10:00 to 18:00 except on Monday and Tuesdays. Use this as a excuse to visit the Musée du Vin, Rue des Eaux, 5. Square Charles Dickens, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. InfoTel.: 01 45 25 63 28.

Jacques-Henry Lartigue - is on show with an important photo exhibition continuing until Monday, 22. September. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Chen Zen - is the author of 'Silence Sonore,' an exhibition to be on view beginning Wednesday, 1. October and continuing until Sunday, 18. January 2004. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from noon to midnight. Entry: 3 or 5€. Palais de Tokyo, site of contemporary art creation. At 13. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 54 01.

Fire Works - the occasion may be part of the Festival d'Automne, but these must be the fireworks of Friday, 19. September. In case of bad weather, the name changes to the fireworks of Saturday, 20. September. Either day, at sundown. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenueposter: expo mail art, mao by matt rose Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Mail-Art - decorated envelopes existed before La Poste itself, but have really inspired artists of the 20th century, and continue in the 21st. Starting off with a 'Network' in 1962, modern development stops at nothing, like postmen themselves. On exhibit, the works of six mail-artists plus the works of a large international group. From Monday, 22. September until Saturday, 1. November. At L'Espace Beauregard, 6. Rue Beauregard, Paris 2. Métro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis or Bonne-Nouvelle.

At right, Matt Rose's 'mail art' Mao. ©2003

Festival d'Automne - every year, without details, except perhaps on the Web site. From Wednesday, 24. September until Tuesday, 23. December. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Edouard Vuillard - is featured in a major exhibition this fall. From Thursday, 25. September to Sunday, 4. January 2004. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations [often] required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Cocteau - is presented in a big exhibition starting Thursday, 25. September, continuing to Monday, 5. January 2004. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesday. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Parures de Tête - no details yet, but not to be missed. From Thursday, 25. September until July of 2004. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, except Monday and Tuesday. Entry charge but free the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Fête des Jardins - instead of having a party in a garden, Paris gardens have a party from Friday, 26. September until Sunday, 28. September. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

La Route du Poisson - last held on the occasion of 'Horse Days' in 2001, the descendants of the draft-horses that used to bring fish to Paris daily from the Channel ports will be in action and on display. This weekend event, begins on Friday, 26. September in Boulogne-sur-Mer at 8:00. The draft-horses will show off on Sunday, 28. September from 10:00 to 19:00. Check out the Route du Poisson Web site. At the Vincennes racetrack, 2. Route de la Ferme, Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-Vincennes or Charenton-Ecoles. InfoTel.: 03 44 38 54 50.

Art Paris - Paris best galleries show off their artists' latest works in this commercial show and sale. From Friday, 26. September until Monday, 29. September, from 11:00 to 20:00, until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 56 26 52 00.

Paris-Versailles - the 28th edition of this marathon from the base of the Tour Eiffel to Louis' place in Versailles. From 10:00 on Sunday, 28. September. Paris 7. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 30 21 10 25.

Rowing Through Paris - I have missed mentioning this watersports event in the past because it is usually over before I wake up. Times given are 06:30 to 8:00, but I think the start may be at 8:15. Check the Web site to find out where exactly. The date for it is Sunday, 28. September. On the Seine in Paris. InfoTel.: 01 48 75 75 10.

Botticelli - subtitled, 'De Laurent Le Magnifique à Savonarole,' will be a major exhibition brought to Paris by the Sénat. Beginning on Wednesday, 1. October and continuingposter: fest european, temps d'images until 22. February 2004. Open Tuesday to Thursday, from 10:00 to 19:00, from 10:00 to 20:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Gauguin - Tahiti - will feature paintings from Gauguin's south seas atelier in this big show. To start on Thursday, 2. October and continue until Monday, 19. January. Open from 10:00 to 20:00 and until 22:00 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations (often) required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17. RésaTel.: 08 92 68 46 94.

Pyramid of Shoes - is to remind all of us about the effects of all the anti-personal mines left lurking all over the world, but mostly in the least well-off parts of it. On Saturday, 4. October, from 10:00 to 20:00. At Trocadéro, Paris 16 Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 08 11 88 87 86.

Nuit Blanche - this is not Paris' first sleepless 'Nuit Blanche,' but it is this year's new, improved version. To be more 'outside' than last year, in six parts of the city. Beginning about 19:30 on Saturday, 4. October and continuing, maybe, all day on Sunday. The Métros should be running all night as well as some RER lines. Paris' own Web site should have detailed info. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe - this is the premier flat race of the year in Paris, and it draws an international crowd of racy spectators. On Sunday, 5. October, the racing starts at 13:30, with the Prix de l'Arc race expected to run about 17:00. At the Hippodrôme de Longchamp, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Porte Maillot, then RATP bus 244. InfoTel.: 08 21 21 32 13.

Iness Mêzel - will appear in concert at the Café de la Danse to demonstrate, with energy, dynamism and charm, the colors of Berber Africa, hot with groovy music containing strong impressions of Afro Jazz, accompanied with a voice used to widen-open spaces. One date only, on Monday, 6. October at 20:00. At the Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille or Ledru-Rollin. ResaTél.: 01 47 00 57 59.

De Delacroix à Renoir - Algeria as seen by French painters of the past is the focus of this exhibition. To begin on Tuesday, 7. October and continue until Sunday, 18. January. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 19:00 on weekends. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Gina Lollobrigida - sculptures of or by, La Lollobrigida? From Friday, 10. October until Sunday, 7. December. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 17:00. At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Pont-Neuf. InfoTel.: 01 40 46 56 66.

Piaf, la Môme de Paris - follows Yves Montand's popular show in the city hall's free reception area. Friday, 10. October until Friday, 30. January. Except on Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 49 61. Free entry.

Fête des Vendanges - is the annual one on Montmartre, on the weekend of 11 and 12. October. Parade, on Sunday, starts on the Boulevard de Rochechouart at 14:00 and winds around the Butte until reaching the vineyard in the Rue Saint-Vincent about 16:30, for the ceremony of the new wine. This year's theme is 'Le temps des cerises.' Paris 18. Métro: Anvers, Pigalle, Abbesses or Lamarck-Caulincourt. InfoTel.: 01 46 06 00 32. Montmartre's own Paris 18 Net may have more details.

La Semaine du Goût - Taste Week - France shows off its talents with creative things to put in your mouth, that do more than keep you merely alive. Tastings, and instructions, everywhere for the week beginning on Monday, 13. October, until Sunday, 19. October. Find more details here.

JVC Jazz Festival - this annual event takes place from Monday, 13. October until Tuesday, 21. October. Concerts are in several locations, so your best bet is to check the Web site, where reservations can also be made. InfoTel.: 01 46 21 08 37.

Nicolas de Largillierre - a painter of the 'Grand Siècle' and the Regency is the star of this major exhibition. From Tuesday, 14. October until Friday, 30. January. From 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Monday.. At the Musée Jacquemart-Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Zao Wou Ki - is featured in a major exhibition, which is part of the 'Year of China' in France. From Tuesday, 14. October until Sunday, 7. December. Except for Mondays and holidays, from 12:00 to 19:00, from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galeries Nationales du Jeu du Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, inside the Tuileries, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Rainbow Attitude - this is the first European Gay and 'Gay-Friendly' salon, so it is a bit of a first-timeposter: le villette en famille exclusive as well as a mystery. Date for this is the 18-19. October weekend. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 02 70.

Confucius 551-479 - will be in another major 'Year of China' exhibition. From Wednesday, 29. October until 9. February 2004. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques / Musée Guimet - Le Panthéon Bouddhique, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

9th Salon Européen du Chocolat - for a chocolate-loving public, 150 international stars of chocolate show off their creations, which can also be tasted. From Wednesday, 29. October until Sunday, 2. November. From 10:00 to 20:00, and until 22:00 on Friday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 72 51 62

Paris Photo - French and international photo galleries join together to put on this salon of photos, works prints dating from the 19th century to our times. From Thursday, 13. November until Sunday, 16. November, from 11:00 to 20:00, until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 80.

Plantu - before this cartoonist hit the front page of Le Monde, there was nothing on it to see except text. An exhibition of drawings and sculptures. Until Sunday, 26. October. Also see Lucien Jones and his building murals from the '30s. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Gustave Moreau - Mythes et Chimères - an additional centennial exhibition for this ultra-productive painter of myths and antiquities, with all pieces on show on loan from the Musée Gustave-Moreau, including some never shown before in public. Until Sunday, 9. November. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 55 31 95 67.

100 Years for the Musée Gustave Moreau - inaugurated in January reception room has remained closed for 100 years until its recent reopening. Restoredposter: la puissance et la gloire, orch nat ile de france of 1903, Moreau's to its original condition in every detail for this occasion, resulting in an extraordinary museum within the museum with its exceptional collection. Open from 10:00 to 12:45 and from 14:00 to 17:15 except on Tuesday. At the Musée Gustave-Moreau, 14. Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité or Saint-Georges. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 38 50.

Four Exhibitions - include La Dation Brancusi and Oliver Debre, both until Sunday, 14. September. Signes des Ecoles d'Art continues until Monday, 22. September. Alors la Chine?, will be on show until 13. October. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

La Clé du Champs et Arthu Bispo do Rosario - the location says painting but maybe it's sculpture, fields, or the keys to Rosario. Continuing until Tuesday, 28. September. Except for Mondays and holidays, from 12:00 to 19:00, from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galeries Nationales du Jeu du Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, inside the Tuileries, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Marlene Dietrich - in an exhibition subtitled 'creation of a myth,' which will be on view until December. Daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 86 00.

Queen Mary II - 'birth of a legend' may be a bit premature for the world's hugest ocean liner when it hasn't even been launched yet. But I can personally vouch for the Queen Mary I, so this show is worth seeing because the new ship will be made of good stuff too. Until 2. February 2004. Also, see 'Les Génies de la Mer,' which shows off navel sculpture, until the same date. The painterly 38th Salon de la Marine continues until Monday, 29. September. From 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. At the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

Paris-Marseille - or, 'From Montparnasse to the Canebière,' is an exhibit about old-time artists, to continue until Sunday, 12. October. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. At Le Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Jean-Michel Basquiat, 'Peintures' - the history of a body of work is on exhibit here, continuing until Thursday, 23. October. Except Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Personnages de Contes pour Enfants - pays homage to contemporary dolls. Until Wednesday, 2. November. Also see the permanent collection containing 500 dolls. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Saharas d'Algerie - is a show about a lot of sand, or, an 'unexpected paradise.' It continues until Tuesday, 21. October. The garden is open from 7:30 to 19:45. If the expo is in the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution it is closed on Tuesdays, but otherwise open from 10:00 to 18:00, and on Thursdays until 22:00. In the Jardin des Plantes, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu or Austerlitz. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 30 00.

L'Esprit fe la Forêt - features Yanomani and other artists in this show continuing until Sunday, 12. October. From 12:00 to 20:00 except on Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 42 18 56 50.

Susanna Fritscher - is presented in a sculpture exhibition continuing until Sunday, 5. October, from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

René Moreu - is featured in this exhibition site usually reserved for 'primitive' art, until Monday, 5. January 2004. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

'J'Aime Pas la Culture' - for this I have no details other than it is a major 'Euroculture' event. This 'I Hate Culture' show continues until the end of the year, with open hours of 10:00 to 18:00 and until 22:00 on Fridays. At 68. Quai de la Seine, Paris 19. Métro: Crimée. InfoTel.: 01 40 38 09 31.

Balzac S'Affiche - is an exhibition of theatre and movie posters done for Balzac's works during most of the 20th century, along with the names of the star actors who performed in them, with accompanying newspaper articles that often 'made' various productions. Until Sunday, 28. September. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Photography at the Turn of the Century - 'Du Pictorialisme à Engène Atget,' is a majorposter: show, ole carmen, stade de france exhibition continuing until Sunday, 19. October. Big names as well as unknowns are represented. From 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, entry Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Marc Riboud - is featured with photos of jolies Parisiennes, continuing until Sunday, 12. October. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Crypte Archéologique, 1. Place du Parvis de Notre-Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 83 51.

Destins Croisés - are the works by Iranian photo-reporter Reza, taken of the children of the world's less peaceful places. The outside photos hung on the fence around the Luxembourg garden are visible all the time, until Tuesday, 30. September. From the Place Edmond Rostand to the Rue de Médicis. Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. No InfoTel necessary.

Forum des Images - most if not all movies shown here have a bit of Paris in them. Sixty of them are featured from Tuesday, 15. July to Sunday, 27. July and from Wednesday, 20. August to Tuesday, 9. September. From Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française - the official film museum operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Les Grandes Eaux Musicales - is the Château de Versailles' annual H2O and baroque musical fountain show, continuing until Sunday, 5. October. Three shows every Sunday - at the 'Grande Perspective' from 11:00 to 12:00, and from 15:30 to 17:00 in the Petit Parc, with the closing spectacle at the Bassin de Neptune at 17:20, lasting for 10 minutes. Same hours on Saturdays, until 27. September. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C' line. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.

Opéras - included this fall are Puccini's Tosca and Les Indes Galantes by Rameau at their locations in the Palais Garnier or at the Place de la Bastille. For both opera and ballet names and dates, check the Web site, or call Toll number InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Shadowing Maigret - on the 100th anniversary of the birth of Georges Simenon, follow his famous detective's footsteps through the Paris of 1920-1950. Start at the BILIPO, the public library specializing in crime literature. There is a published guide to go with this, with seven itineraries. Until Saturday, 4. October. BILIPO, 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lémoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lémoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Vivre C'est Habiter - is a 'big living show' lacking details other than the dates, lasting until Saturday, 8. November. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06. ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Sur les Pas de Jean Moulin - follow this Résistance hero, not quite like the Gestapo. Until Sunday, 19. October. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Gaîté. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Carrières Parisiennes - a photographic exhibition showing Paris' recent past as one big quarry. Until Sunday, 12. October. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00, and otherwise from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs de Paris, 1. Place Denfert Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Himalaya - Tibet - or, 'Le Choc des Continents' is an important exhibition, most likely featuring very high mountains. Continuing until Monday, 3. November. Closed Tuesdays, its hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 22:00. At the Muséum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 36 00.

Théâtre de Guignol - shows at 15:00 and 16:00 on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. 'Guignol' continues until Sunday, 28. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 49 23 94 37.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic, clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, continuing until Wednesday, 24. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

La Parade des Petits Soldats - is an exhibition for kid's dreams with 5000 lead soldiers that were once for play but are now only seen in collections. This exhibition also has musical accompaniment. Continues until Sunday, 5. October. From 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: La Tour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Ca C'est du Cirque - is the name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with a second Saturday show at 20:30 twice a month. Other performances on all holidays. Most likely like real circus. Find it at Rue de la Haie-Coq, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Chapelle or bus 65. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

Ice Skating - is open to the public at the POPB, or Bercy for short. The actual name is the Sonja-Henie Patinoire.ad: fete de l'huma, 12, 14 sept Open Wednesday, from 15:00 to 18:00, Friday from 21:30 to 00:30, Saturday from 15:00 to 18:00 and 21:30 to 00:30, and on Sunday from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 18:00. Entry on north, garden side. 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 40 02 60 60.

Balloons Away! - the tethered Eutelsat balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions and fog news call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Catacombs - note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so they are not for the slow, wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'roller rando for slower folks' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Les Escapades d'Aligre - are for discovering the artisanal and ex-industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on bikes. On the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner has bike rentals and guided tours are offered too. A day's rental is 12€ for ten hours, or 110 euros for 365 days. Complete accessories and insurance are available. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 10 44 15 34. Roue Libre also has a Marne branch at the RER 'A' station Neuilly-Plaisance. Open from 06:30 to 20:30 during the week and from 9:30 to 19:30 on weekends. InfoTel.: 01 48 15 28 88.

Batobus - is the scheduled boat-bus service on the Seine that stops near many major attractions. With an all-day ticket you can hop on and off when and where you want. The service runs upstream along the left bank from the Pont d'Iéna near the Tour Eiffel, to the eastern tip of the Ile Saint-Louis before returning downstream along the right bank. Like city buses on the streets, the Batobus offers no babbling sightseeing commentary. For adults, 10 euros per day and 12.50 for two days. Kids, about half price.

'Paris Respire' - is the Sunday and holidays' program allowing slower folks unpowered by motors to stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas on the Seine-side speedways and other areas around Paris, which are closed to motor traffic until 17:00 on Sundays.

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