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Two Picassos

photo: toussaint, montparnasse cemetery

Toussaint in the Montparnasse cemetery.

For the Price of Two

Paris:- Saturday, 1. November 2003:- In a long-planned commando-style operation I visited the Paris Tourist Office on the Champs-Elysées today, to get December's program. Not bad, considering it is the Toussaint holiday. Also 'not bad,' the amount of advance information available concerning what Paris will be doing for the coming year-end season.

Not so good, though, have been the number of changes necessary for this week's 'Scène' column. All of which means that it'll take until next week's issue to get 'Noël 2003' online. If you are impatient, all you really need to know right now is that Paris will not be 'closed' for Christmas and New Years.



Aux Origines de l'Abstraction - takes us back to the period from 1800 to 1914, to show us how art evolved to a state considered modern - shown in 150 works, from Turner to Picabia. To begin on Thursday, 6. November, continuing until 9. February 2004. From 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Le Chat s'Expose - at l'Ecole des Beaux Arts, is not just 'any' cat, but everything about 'Le Chat.' Continuing until Sunday, 4. January. Except Mondays, fromposter: spectacles vivants, pompidou 10:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 00

Salon du Patrimoine Culturel - is focused on theatre arts and plain art this year. Starting on Thursday, 6. November and ending on Sunday, 9. November. Hours are 10:00 to 19:00, and until 18:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal InfoTel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

François Boucher - is featured in the exhibition of his works, titled 'Yesterday and Today.' This continues until Monday, 19. January. Open from 9:00 until 17:30, and from 9:00 to 21:30 on Wednesday, but closed Tuesday. At the Musée du Louvre, principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Nicolas de Largillierre - this painter of the 'Grand Siècle' and the Regency is the star of this major exhibition which continues until Friday, 30. January. From 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Monday.. At the Musée Jacquemart-Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Zao Wou Ki - is featured in a major exhibition, which is part of the 'Year of China' inposter: expo picasso intime France. Until Sunday, 7. December. Except for Mondays and holidays, from 12:00 to 19:00, from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galeries Nationales du Jeu du Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, inside the Tuileries, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Confucius 551-479 - will be in another major 'Year of China' exhibition. This continues until Monday, 9. February 2004. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques / Musée Guimet - Le Panthéon Bouddhique, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Paris Photo - French and international photo galleries join together to put on this salon of photos and prints dating from the 19th century to our times. From Thursday, 13. November until Sunday, 16. November, from 11:00 to 20:00, until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 70.

Botero - presents the works of the past five years from the South American artist - some not so light-hearted. Beginning Friday, 7. November and continuing until Monday, 15. March 2004. Except Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Picasso - 'On Est Ce Que l'On Garde' is an exhibition from the deep archives of the Picasso museum. To continue until Monday, 19. January. From 9:30 to 17:30 except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, Hôtel Salé, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Picasso Intime - the works on show in this major exhibition come from the private collection of Jacqueline Picasso. To begin on Friday, 7. November and continue until Sunday, 28. March 2004. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Pinacothèque de Paris, 30-bis. Rue du Paradis, Paris 10. Métro: Château d'Eau or Poissonnière. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 71 41.

Plots and Attacks on Hitler - are documented in an exhibition demonstrating German resistance to Hilter and the Nazis. To begin on Saturday, 8. November andposter: expo, les archives de picasso continue until Sunday, 28. March 2004. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Gaîté. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Pierre Buraglio - is featured is an exhibition titled, 'Prolongements et Prélèvements.' This show continues until Sunday, 1. February. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Fondation Cartier - see the 'Crystal Palace' sculptures of Jean-Michel Othoniel, and the 'beat' and 'pop' photos by Daido Moriyama. Both on show until Sunday, 11. January. From 12:00 to 20:00 except on Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 42 18 56 50.

Les Italiens - are featured in a vast number of shows and exhibitions until December, according to a poster seen on a Morris column. Find details, I hope, on the Les Italiens Web site. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 57 53.

Festival d'Automne - every year, without details, except perhaps on the Web site. Until Tuesday, 23. December. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Gustave Moreau - Mythes et Chimères - an additional centennial exhibition for this ultra-productive painter of myths and antiquities, with all pieces on show on loan from theposter: semaine de beijing, vdep Musée Gustave-Moreau, including some never shown before in public. Until Sunday, 9. November. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 55 31 95 67.

Dreamspaces - features photos by Jeff Berner, who was more worried about misplaced caps on the invitation to the vernissage than telling me about the expo - which he probably thinks I've forgotten about. Continues until Friday, 14. November. At the Fous de l'Ile, 33. Rue des Deux-Ponts, Ile Saint-Louis, Paris 4. Métro: Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 76 67.

Vivre C'est Habiter - is a 'big living show' lacking details other than the dates, lasting until Saturday, 8. November. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06. ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Musée Poupee - not certain, but there may be a coming exhibition of teddies - or 'doudous' as they are called here - for the holiday season. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Zazou - is a musical about love during the occupation, by Jérôme Savary. From Friday, 14. November until Sunday, 11. January. At 20:00 and at 15:00 on Sunday. No shows on Monday, and none on Thursday, 8. January. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Epouses et Concubines - is just one of the dances put on by the company and soloists of the Chinese National Ballet. From Friday, 21. November to Tuesday, 25. November. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 28 40.

The Cirque de Pekin Visits the Cirque Phenix - features circus stars' from China. To start on Saturday, 22. November and continue until Sunday, 4. January, with no shows on Mondays. At the Pelouse de Reuilly, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Charenton InfoTel.: 08 25 03 90 40.

Horse Show - this salon features everything about horses, and some horses too, including horses doing their tricks and winning prizes for being beautiful. Starting on Saturday, 29. November and continuing until Wednesday, 7. December. Hours are generally 10:00 to 19:00. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 76 87.

Jean-Honoré Fragonard - popular but not well-known, a selection of Fragonard's works are featured in an exhibition of drawings, from both ends of a long and varied career. To begin on Wednesday, 3. December and continue until Monday, 8. March 2004. Open from 9:00 to 17:30, and from 9:00 to 21:30 on Monday and Wednesday. Closed Tuesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Salon des Antiquaires - and, art galleries. These get together for a big salon lasting from Friday, 5. December until Sunday, 14. December. Open from 11:00 to 21:00 daily. To be found in the Jardin des Tuileries, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries. InfoTel.: 01 44 88 52 60.

Sale Days - is another title for 'Braderie de Paris,' where everything is 'on sale' atposter: expo, origin of abstraction, orsay one discount or another, from Friday, 6. December until Sunday, 14. December. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:00 on Tuesday and Friday. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 43 95 37 00.

Salon Nautique - is also know as the big 'boat show,' for floating-on-water fans. You can buy a boat, or buy a ticket for a cruise here. This begins on Friday, 6. December and continues until Monday, 15. December. Open from 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Friday, 2. December. On the last day the salon closes at 17:00. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 10.

Vive la Maison! - is a shout for Paris' home show, where everything is 'for sale' during this 2nd edition. Beginning on Saturday, 29. November and continuing until Sunday, 7. December. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:00 on Tuesday, 2. December. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 49 09 60 55.

Soldes d'Hiver - the Paris Tourist Office didn't know the exact date for the beginning of the coming Winter Sales in Paris. They guessed 'the first week' after New Years. My guess is that they will begin on Monday, 5. January. If I'm wrong, my fail-safe 'guess' is Monday, 12. January. The sales always last for four or five weeks, but early shoppers get the best bargains.

Beijing Culture Week - is scheduled to begin on Saturday, 10 January with a photographic exhibition, which will continue until Sunday, 18. January. The actual 'week' will be from Thursday, 22. January until Tuesday, 27. January. A parade on the Champs-Elysées is planned for Saturday, 24. January. See the Année de la Chine Web site for additional details.

Edouard Vuillard - is featured in a major exhibition, with about 300 works on view. Until Sunday, 4. January 2004. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations -recommended- or required, for morning visits before 13:00. Afterwards, it's come-as-you-are. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Jean Cocteau - 'Sur le Fil du Siècle,' is presented in a big exhibition continuing until Monday, 5. January 2004. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesday. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Botticelli - subtitled, 'De Laurent Le Magnifique à Savonarole,' is a major exhibitionposter: festival d'art scare, vdep brought to Paris by the Sénat. About 30 other contemporary artists are featured, including Leonardo. This continues until 22. February 2004. Open Tuesday to Thursday, from 10:00 to 19:00, from 10:00 to 20:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint Sulpice. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Gauguin - Tahiti - will feature paintings from Gauguin's tropical south seas atelier in this major show. Continuing until Monday, 19. January. Open from 10:00 to 20:00 and until 22:00 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations -often- required for morning visits before 13:00. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17. RésaTel.: 08 92 68 46 94.

De Delacroix à Renoir - Algeria as seen by French painters of the past is the focus of this exhibition., which continues until Sunday, 18. January. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 19:00 on weekends. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Parures de Tête - no details yet, but not to be missed, with plenty of time to go until July of 2004. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, except Monday and Tuesday. Entry charge but free the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Marlene Dietrich - in an exhibition subtitled 'creation of a myth,' which will be on view until Sunday, 14. December. Daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 86 00.

Queen Mary II - 'birth of a legend' may be a bit premature for the world's hugest ocean linerposter: maison des metallos when it hasn't even been launched yet. But I can personally vouch for the Queen Mary I, so this show is worth seeing because the new ship will be made of good stuff too. Until Monday, 2. February 2004. Also, see 'Les Génies de la Mer,' which shows off navel sculpture, until the same date. From 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. At the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

100 Years for the Musée Gustave Moreau - inaugurated in January of 1903, Moreau's reception room has remained closed for 100 years until its recent reopening. Restored to its original condition in every detail for this occasion, resulting in an extraordinary museum within the museum with its exceptional collection. Open from 10:00 to 12:45 and from 14:00 to 17:15 except on Tuesday. At the Musée Gustave-Moreau, 14. Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité or Saint-Georges. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 38 50.

Piaf, la Môme de Paris - follows Yves Montand's popular exhibition in the city hall's reception area. Until Saturday, 31. January. For this occasion, EMI Music has produced an album containing Edith Piaf's Paris songs. Except on Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 49 61. Free entry.

Gina Lollobrigida - sculptures of or by, La Lollobrigida? Continuing until Sunday, 7. December. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 17:00. At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Pont-Neuf. InfoTel.: 01 40 46 56 66.

Chen Zhen - is the author of 'Silence Sonore,' an exhibition to be on view until Sunday, 18. January 2004. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from noon to midnight. See also Pierre Joseph, Michael Lin, Daniel Pflumm and Mathieu Briand. Entry: 3 or 5€. Palais de Tokyo, site of contemporary art creation. At 13. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 54 01.

Auguste-Hippolyte Collard - this is an exhibition of the 19th century photographs by Auguste-Hippolyte Collard. On view until Sunday, 30. November. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 58 58 58.

René Moreu - is featured at this exhibition site usually reserved for 'primitive' art, until Monday, 5. January. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Affiches Mode - this busy poster gallery returns with a collection of high quality fashion posters. This expo-sale continues until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops worth your while.

L'Ile de la Cité - 2000 years of history is the theme of the next exhibition at the Crypte Archéologique, organized by the Musée Carnavalet - scheduled to continue until next May. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Crypte Archéologique, 1. Place du Parvis de Notre-Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 83 51.

François Arago - and his professional relations with the 'Observatoire de Paris,' continues until Sunday, 6. December. On Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Observatoire de Paris, 6. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Porte-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 23 01.

'J'Aime Pas la Culture' - for this I have no details other than it is a major 'Euroculture' event. This 'I Hate Culture' show continues until the end of the year, with open hours of 10:00 to 18:00 and until 22:00 on Fridays. At 68. Quai de la Seine, Paris 19. Métro: Crimée. InfoTel.: 01 40 38 09 31.

Forum des Images - most if not all movies shown here have a bit of Paris in them. From Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française - the official film museum operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Pink Floyd Interstellar - rock sounds and an exhibition about this famous group, grouped together for an extended stay, until Sunday, 25. January. Organized around the idea of the 'Dark Side of the Moon.' Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. On concert evenings, the temporary exhibitionsposter: les amantes, thtr ouvert are open until 20:00. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Opéras - included this fall are 'La Bohême,' 'Les Troyens' by Hector Berlioz, and Verdi's 'Il Trovatore' at the Opéra in the Place de la Bastille. Expect 'Lulu' and Ariadne auf Naxos' in late November and early December. For both opera and ballet names and dates, check the Web site, or call Toll number InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Ballet - included in this fall's program are performances by the Ballet de l'Opéra de Paris, including 'Clavigo,' at the Palais Garnier. For both opera and ballet names and dates, check the Web site, or call Toll number InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Lucinda Childs - by the Ballet de l'Opéra National du Rhin, is included in this fall's program are performances. Within the Festival d'Automne à Paris program, at the Théâtre de la Ville, 2. Place de la Châtelet, Paris 4. Métro: Châtelet. ResaTel.: 01 42 74 22 77.

Tassili at the Musée de l'Homme - presents an exhibition showing off the 'lost' art and civilization of the Tassili. This is part of the 'Year of Algeria' program. Closed Tuesdays, its hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 22:00. At the Muséum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 36 00.

Tintin, Le Temple du Soleil - is the musical comedy version of the comic book and is probably a pretty big show. Starting on Saturday, 8. November. Regular showtimes are 20:30, with 15:00 and 20:30 on Wednesday and Saturday, and at 15:30 on Sunday. No shows on Monday or Tuesday. At the Hippodrôme d'Auteuil, Allée des Fortifications, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.: 01 42 61 39 95.

Voltige - at the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione. On Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 14:00 and 17:00, and at 14:00 every day during school holidays. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris 11. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 48 70.

Ca C'est du Cirque - is the name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with a second Saturday show at 20:30 twice a month. Other performances on all holidays. Most likely like real circus. Find it at Rue de la Haie-Coq, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Chapelle or bus 65. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

Ice Skating - is open to the public at the POPB, or 'Bercy' for short. The actual name is the Sonja-Henie Patinoire. Open Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from 15:00 to 18:00. On Saturday evening also open from 21:30 to 00:30, with a DJ for skaters who like music. Entry on north, garden side, at 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 40 02 60 60.

Balloons Away! - the tethered Eutelsat balloon flights at the Parc André Citroën take place, weather permitting, from 9:00 until 30 minutes before the park closes. At the Parc André Citroën, Rue Cauchy, Paris 15. Métro: Javel or Balard. For flight conditions and fog news call InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Catacombs - note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks - the free Friday night 'roller rando' aroundposter: forum social european Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours - so they are not for the slow, wobbly or faint-hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks - the free Sunday afternoon 'roller rando for slower folks' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Les Escapades d'Aligre - are for discovering the artisanal and ex-industrial patrimony of eastern Paris, on bikes. On the 1st Saturday of every month. Starts at 10:00 from the Place d'Aligre. Paris 12. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 53 17 03 18.

Roue Libre - this RATP partner rents bike and guided tours are offered too. A day's rental is 12€ for ten hours, or 110€ for 365 days. Complete accessories and insurance are available. The year-round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 10 44 15 34. Roue Libre also has a Marne branch at the RER 'A' station Neuilly-Plaisance. Open from 06:30 to 20:30 during the week and from 9:30 to 19:30 on weekends. InfoTel.: 01 48 15 28 88.

'Paris Respire' - is the Sunday and holidays' program allowing slower folks unpowered by motors to stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas on the Seine-side speedways and other areas around Paris, which are closed to motor traffic until 17:00 on Sundays.

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