horz line

Two Picassos

photo: toussaint, montparnasse cemetery

Toussaint in the Montparnasse cemetery.

For the Price of Two

Paris:- Saturday, 1. November 2003:- In a long-planned commando-style operation I visited the Paris Tourist Office on the Champs-Elysées today, to get December's program. Not bad, considering it is the Toussaint holiday. Also 'not bad,' the amount of advance information available concerning what Paris will be doing for the coming year-end season.

Not so good, though, have been the number of changes necessary for this week's 'Scène' column. All of which means that it'll take until next week's issue to get 'Noël 2003' online. If you are impatient, all you really need to know right now is that Paris will not be 'closed' for Christmas and New Years.



Aux Origines de l'Abstraction - takes us back to the period from 1800 to 1914, to show us how art evolved to a state considered modern - shown in 150 works, from Turner to Picabia. To begin on Thursday, 6. November, continuing until 9. February 2004. From 10:00 to 18:00, until 21:45 on Thursdays and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sunday. Closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Le Chat s'Expose - at l'Ecole des Beaux Arts, is not just 'any' cat, but everything about 'Le Chat.' Continuing until Sunday, 4. January. Except Mondays, fromposter: spectacles vivants, pompidou 10:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 00

Salon du Patrimoine Culturel - is focused on theatre arts and plain art this year. Starting on Thursday, 6. November and ending on Sunday, 9. November. Hours are 10:00 to 19:00, and until 18:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal InfoTel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

François Boucher - is featured in the exhibition of his works, titled 'Yesterday and Today.' This continues until Monday, 19. January. Open from 9:00 until 17:30, and from 9:00 to 21:30 on Wednesday, but closed Tuesday. At the Musée du Louvre, principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Nicolas de Largillierre - this painter of the 'Grand Siècle' and the Regency is the star of this major exhibition which continues until Friday, 30. January. From 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Monday.. At the Musée Jacquemart-Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Zao Wou Ki - is featured in a major exhibition, which is part of the 'Year of China' inposter: expo picasso intime France. Until Sunday, 7. December. Except for Mondays and holidays, from 12:00 to 19:00, from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galeries Nationales du Jeu du Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, inside the Tuileries, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Confucius 551-479 - will be in another major 'Year of China' exhibition. This continues until Monday, 9. February 2004. Hours are 10:00 to 18:00, except on Tuesdays. At the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques / Musée Guimet - Le Panthéon Bouddhique, 19. Avenue d'Iéna, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 53 00.

Paris Photo - French and international photo galleries join together to put on this salon of photos and prints dating from the 19th century to our times. From Thursday, 13. November until Sunday, 16. November, from 11:00 to 20:00, until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Sunday. At the Carrousel du Louvre, 99. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 70.

Botero - presents the works of the past five years from the South American artist - some not so light-hearted. Beginning Friday, 7. November and continuing until Monday, 15. March 2004. Except Tuesdays, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Picasso - 'On Est Ce Que l'On Garde' is an exhibition from the deep archives of the Picasso museum. To continue until Monday, 19. January. From 9:30 to 17:30 except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, Hôtel Salé, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Picasso Intime - the works on show in this major exhibition come from the private collection of Jacqueline Picasso. To begin on Friday, 7. November and continue until Sunday, 28. March 2004. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:30 on Monday and Friday. At the Pinacothèque de Paris, 30-bis. Rue du Paradis, Paris 10. Métro: Château d'Eau or Poissonnière. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 71 41.

Plots and Attacks on Hitler - are documented in an exhibition demonstrating German resistance to Hilter and the Nazis. To begin on Saturday, 8. November andposter: expo, les archives de picasso continue until Sunday, 28. March 2004. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Gaîté. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Pierre Buraglio - is featured is an exhibition titled, 'Prolongements et Prélèvements.' This show continues until Sunday, 1. February. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Fondation Cartier - see the 'Crystal Palace' sculptures of Jean-Michel Othoniel, and the 'beat' and 'pop' photos by Daido Moriyama. Both on show until Sunday, 11. January. From 12:00 to 20:00 except on Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 42 18 56 50.

Les Italiens - are featured in a vast number of shows and exhibitions until December, according to a poster seen on a Morris column. Find details, I hope, on the Les Italiens Web site. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 57 53.

Festival d'Automne - every year, without details, except perhaps on the Web site. Until Tuesday, 23. December. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Gustave Moreau - Mythes et Chimères - an additional centennial exhibition for this ultra-productive painter of myths and antiquities, with all pieces on show on loan from theposter: semaine de beijing, vdep Musée Gustave-Moreau, including some never shown before in public. Until Sunday, 9. November. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 55 31 95 67.

Dreamspaces - features photos by Jeff Berner, who was more worried about misplaced caps on the invitation to the vernissage than telling me about the expo - which he probably thinks I've forgotten about. Continues until Friday, 14. November. At the Fous de l'Ile, 33. Rue des Deux-Ponts, Ile Saint-Louis, Paris 4. Métro: Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 76 67.

Vivre C'est Habiter - is a 'big living show' lacking details other than the dates, lasting until Saturday, 8. November. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06. ResaTel.: 08 92 68 36 22.

Musée Poupee - not certain, but there may be a coming exhibition of teddies - or 'doudous' as they are called here - for the holiday season. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Zazou - is a musical about love during the occupation, by Jérôme Savary. From Friday, 14. November until Sunday, 11. January. At 20:00 and at 15:00 on Sunday. No shows on Monday, and none on Thursday, 8. January. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Epouses et Concubines - is just one of the dances put on by the company and soloists of the Chinese National Ballet. From Friday, 21. November to Tuesday, 25. November. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 28 40.

The Cirque de Pekin Visits the Cirque Phenix - features circus stars' from China. To start on Saturday, 22. November and continue until Sunday, 4. January, with no shows on Mondays. At the Pelouse de Reuilly, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Porte de Charenton InfoTel.: 08 25 03 90 40.

Horse Show - this salon features everything about horses, and some horses too, including horses doing their tricks and winning prizes for being beautiful. Starting on Saturday, 29. November and continuing until Wednesday, 7. December. Hours are generally 10:00 to 19:00. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 08 92 69 76 87.

Jean-Honoré Fragonard - popular but not well-known, a selection of Fragonard's works are featured in an exhibition of drawings, from both ends of a long and varied career. To begin on Wednesday, 3. December and continue until Monday, 8. March 2004. Open from 9:00 to 17:30, and from 9:00 to 21:30 on Monday and Wednesday. Closed Tuesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Salon des Antiquaires - and, art galleries. These get together for a big salon lasting from Friday, 5. December until Sunday, 14. December. Open from 11:00 to 21:00 daily. To be found in the Jardin des Tuileries, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries. InfoTel.: 01 44 88 52 60.

Sale Days - is another title for 'Braderie de Paris,' where everything is 'on sale' atposter: expo, origin of abstraction, orsay one discount or another, from Friday, 6. December until Sunday, 14. December. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:00 on Tuesday and Friday. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 43 95 37 00.

Salon Nautique - is also know as the big 'boat show,' for floating-on-water fans. You can buy a boat, or buy a ticket for a cruise here. This begins on Friday, 6. December and continues until Monday, 15. December. Open from 10:00 to 18:00, and until 22:00 on Friday, 2. December. On the last day the salon closes at 17:00. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 41 90 47 10.

Vive la Maison! - is a shout for Paris' home show, where everything is 'for sale' during this 2nd edition. Beginning on Saturday, 29. November and continuing until Sunday, 7. December. Open from 10:00 to 19:00, and until 22:00 on Tuesday, 2. December. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 49 09 60 55.

Soldes d'Hiver - the Paris Tourist Office didn't know the exact date for the beginning of the coming Winter Sales in Paris. They guessed 'the first week' after New Years. My guess is that they will begin on Monday, 5. January. If I'm wrong, my fail-safe 'guess' is Monday, 12. January. The sales always last for four or five weeks, but early shoppers get the best bargains.

Beijing Culture Week - is scheduled to begin on Saturday, 10 January with a photographic exhibition, which will continue until Sunday, 18. January. The actual 'week' will be from Thursday, 22. January until Tuesday, 27. January. A parade on the Champs-Elysées is planned for Saturday, 24. January. See the Année de la Chine Web site for additional details.

Edouard Vuillard - is featured in a major exhibition, with about 300 works on view. Until Sunday, 4. January 2004. Open 10:00 to 19:15 and until 21:15 on Wednesdays. Close Tuesdays. Reservations -recommended- or required, for morning visits before 13:00. Afterwards, it's come-as-you-are. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.


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