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Good Foodland
What it's all about – les vaches. 'France Farms Corp.' Struts Its Stuff |
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Paris:– Saturday, 28. February:– In principle there should be nothing strenuous about going to the Salon de l'Agriculture on its opening day, because everybody is supposed to be out of town standing in lines waiting to ski down some distant, freezing Alp. Paris' turn to have winter holidays ends on Monday, but somebody overlooked the fact that not everybody can afford high–altitude winter sports – so the 'beautiful cow show' is a perfect chance to distract kids who have been watching TV all week. Or maybe it's the final treat, after dad or mom has been
shepherding their loved ones for a week, or two. Plus,
farmers But at first, on the Métro ride down to Paris–Expo at the Porte de Versailles, there are few on the train. In theory lunchtime is a good time to travel in France because everybody is supposed to be eating. If they are eating at the Salon de l'Agriculture, then they are already there. At Paris–Expo there is a separate entry for foreigners – over to the west – and entry is free if you bring a passport and say you live outside France. Everybody else has to pay 11€, except kids between seven and 12 who are charged 7€. In all, 650,000 visitors are expected to visit good foodland between now and Sunday, 7. March. Just after noon today the lines to get in are shorter than for an average cinema. The main event is in Paris–Expo's hall 1. There are 2300 animals at the salon in all. Most are present for the competitions, for example, for 'Madame Vache' of 2004. Of course, a 'Bleu du Nord' is not in direct competition with a 'Bretonne Pie Noire,' or any of the 'Blondes d'Aquitaine.' France's Président, Jacques Chirac, has already made his annual visit, so he is not in competition except in a political sense. 'France Farms Corp.' always has a 'crise' of some sort, so there are some farmers here who definitely want to tell France's boss about their problems. The price of milk is in the cellar, and 'les cochons' are in deep trouble – with the 'industrial' ones not fetching more than 1€ a kilo wholesale. There is overproduction of milk, pigs, chickens, fruits and grapes, along with a new version of the Common Agricultural Policy which will bring a reduction of subsidies, and coming difficult negotiations with the World Trade Organization. Alone, the fall of the milk price is supposed to force the elimination of 40 percent of 110,000 producers. Worse and coming soon – competition with the strong Polish milk producers. But for the mini–season of the Salon de l'Agriculture the point is to put these worries aside and show off 'France Farms Corp.' best face. On the hoof or lying down, these faces belong to the 'Amoricaine,' the 'Pie Rouge des Plaines,' the 'Bazadaise' or the 'Parthenaise' – all breeds of cows or bulls. The straw is clean, each animal has an individual water bowl and there are no fences, but signs say, 'please don't touch.' There is a little kid, between two and three, who can't read and is patting the sleek brown rump of a resting 1100–kilo cow, more gently than the nuisance of a fly. Standing in an aisle, admiring the brown eye of a 'Blonde d'Aquitaine,' there is a jostle as a Cadillac of a cow is led through the crowd, attached by a string to its handler. Some of the concrete floor is covered in red or green carpets – Paris is a high–class barnyard. As usual, the showring is in the giant hall 1, underneath the raised centre section – but nothing is happening except for the sand being smoothed for tender beefeet. The waiting beefs are parked to the west and south, within a short walk of showtime. Each year one of France's regions is the main guest and
this year Poitou– Charentes has the honor.
For In one area there is a barbershop for cows. Two barbers are hard at work with their electric shavers, with one cautiously doing the bit around the tail. Cows may not be more exciting to watch than – sleeping turtles – but at least they don't fidget much. There is just so much edible beauty one can take on a Saturday afternoon so I move on to other animals. I can say I see some porks because they look like pigs – oh, and piglets too – but when it comes to sheep, I am a bit at a loss. These belong to the 'Ovis' family of animals, which my big red dictionary describes as, 'any of various, usually horned, ruminant mammals. A sub–species is lamb, and most of the rest would be goats except they are in the 'Capra' family of animals that I mistake as mountain–going sheep. There is one animal that looks like a strong horse, but it has a big head because it is a mule. There are some donkeys too, bigger than I think they should be, and some horses are around somewhere – as I see later on TV. For example, there is a breed of racing draft–horse that looks a lot like the steam tractor that replaced it, but is faster. In short – am I ever? – you can spend a whole visit to the Salon de l'Agriculture in Paris–Expo's hall 1, especially if you like a lot of mostly big, clean animals. But the salon is more than this. There are five other
'halls,' and some of them occupy up to three floors.
Ponies, donkeys, For some reason, all of the Parisians who were staying home to have lunch, have turned up in hall 7 for an afternoon snack. On the first floor France's regions – including offshore ones – have their stands. On the floor above, exotic world food shares the floor with dogs, cat food, and hunters and sports fishermen. Do you need an 'official' duck hunter's gumboot? Regional food continues in the separate hall 4, where every second stand is handing out slices of hard sausage. Most of the food 'tastes' cost something, as do sips of wine and Champagne – so the salami bits are welcome and are good way of distinguishing one region from another even if one seems to be mainly Italy this year. Regions begin with Alsace and 17 regions later end with Rhône–Alps. I don't know how many might have been left out. One region, 'Centre,' is worried about its name because it doesn't seem to evoke much – but for all I know all the orphan regions are under its roof. All the same, if the Poitou–Charentes region is calling itself 'Vacheland,' then France should be calling itself foodland. Even Paris, located inside the Ile–de–France which is nearly 80 percent farmland, claims mushrooms and yogurt as specialites. Somewhere around the Salon de l'Agriculture there is huge contest to identify this year's food winners – all of the 'best ofs' – be they animals or varieties of foods. I don't know where they find the time to sort through the 'Label Rouge,' the 'AOCs' or the 'CCPs.' Some products carry more than one label. Around day nine of the salon, some 3300 gold, silver and
bronze medals will be awarded, after 15,000 samples
have This is all very well. For myself I am perfectly happy just to have survived a few hours of opening day. On leaving Paris–Expo there is a bus waiting right outside the main gate. I get on it without paying too much attention, and then get off about four stops later. A minor miscalculation, meaning I only have to walk from the bottom of the 14 arrondissement nearly to the top. Ah sure – it's pretty good weather, and I need some exercise before the next meal. Salon de l'Agriculture – known to regular Metropole readers since 1997 as the 'Beautiful Cow Show,' this annual food–gate event is with us until Sunday, 7. March. Open hours are 9:00 to 19:00, and until 22:00 on Friday, 5. March. At Paris–Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 49 95 37 00. |
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| Send email concerning the contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor. Metropole Midi © 2010 – unless stated otherwise. |
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No matter how good it tastes, there is no such thing as a free lunch. – Waldo Bini |