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Washing of Montmartre

photo: le consulat, montmartre

Artist's Montmartre on Friday.

Luckliy It Was Raining

by Ric Erickson

Paris:– Monday, 5. July 2004:– I am a bit dubious about passing on today's forecast. It is not a good forecast because my two sources for it agree which they do not do every day, or even once a week. On top of it, both sources have reduced their forecasting capacity, by adding visuals to make readers and viewers think it is summer holiday weather.

In fact, since the summer began the weather has been anything but holiday–like, so that it's at least possible to say the weather is 'normal' for a change. And this is what bothers me about the weather in the next few days – it looks like it will be even more depressingly 'normal' than usual.

At least tomorrow may be uncharacteristically semi–sunny and semi–warm, with a highphoto: mr lapin temperature of 24. It might be the 'high of the week,' so enjoy it if it turns out to be true. Tonight's TV–weather news showed a thin screen of wispy cloud edging slant–wise from the Atlantic, sort of from southwest to northeast. It didn't look ugly enough to cause our 'normal' weather.

All the same it is supposed to start off with semi–crummy on Wednesday, gradually deteriorating to semi–rainy. But maybe humid too, with a high of 23. Thursday is foreseen as plain all–round crummy with rain in the north, in the middle and in the south – except for the Côte d'Azur, where none of this forecast happens. The high for Paris might be 21 on Thursday.

But, on Thursday, there is supposed to be a dubious finger of good weather poking at France, from the southwest to the northeast. Not that crummy weather in July isn't 'normal,' but it is just possible that this 'finger' will be fatter and longer when it arrives. In which case, Thursday may be something else entirely.

Café Life

Washing Montmartre, Part 2004

Some weeks ago I was doing an update for the events columns and one item really annoyed me. I couldn't find out anything about the 'Lavage du Sacre Cœur.' The Web site for the event was 'in construction.' Frankly, I thought it was a trick to make me put something silly in the column. Why would anybody want to wash Sacre Cœur?

But anything is possible so I wasn't too surprised to see in Saturday's Le Parisien that Sacre Cœur would be,photo: brazilians wash montmartre in fact, 'washed' on Sunday. Since I hadn't added the dubious event to the coming events I felt it my duty to cross town and walk up some hills, to bring you this eyewitness account.

According to the paper, some Brazilians in Paris have made a habit of washing some of the steps going up to Sacre Cœur. Apparently it is a local version of some weird fête for chasing away bad spirits. It is news to me that Brazilians think Montmartre's steps are infested with bad spirits. But, you know, anything is possible.

To get in the mood, I left the Métro at Barbés and walked through the rain to the Halle Saint–Pierre, which is usually earmarked for primitive arts exhibitions. 'Art naive' I think it is. Behind the hall, I could hear some pretty heavy drumming. It seemed to be all over, but coming from up on the flank of the steep hill.

I climbed the stairs of the Rue Paul Albert to the café, then followed the path around the side that leads to the front. This put me on the slope, down a couple of levels from the top, but with a view of a procession climbing up the steps. Everybody was dressed in white, and they were carrying a blue and silver banner on a pole. It was a bit dim on account of the rain, but the drumming never slackened.

Where the stairs split to left and right, the procession took the right and I went up the left. This first balcony was the destination, and already had a drum troop numbering about 20, also all dressed in white. Boom boom boom, bomabomaboma, boom boom boom, bomabomaboma, and the head dude arrives.

The ones carrying the banner climbed a few more stairs, then stopped. A crowd was hanging over the railings above, crowded on the stairs and filling the balcony where I was with the bulk of the drummers. It was too packed to see much clearly, but the Brazilians on the stairs might have carried out some ceremony like 'washing' the stairs. If so, it was over quickly, leaving about 99 percent of the stairs as they were – dirty.

There was some other equally brief chanting, mumbo–jumbo, and then the whole thing began to dissolve. Drummers lifted their big drums over their heads to act as umbrellas, and started down the stairs. It was dark and dim, and they looked a bit like they were coming down a jungle path.

I missed the part where they paraded through the lower part of Montmartre from the Boulevard Clichy at Martyrs, up Lepic, along Abbesses and Orsel. About three hours was allowed for this. Upon reaching the bottomphoto: drums, brazilians at the Rue de Steinkerke, they were supposed to go to the Halle Saint–Pierre, or the Gymnase Ronsard. But they looked like they were going away, using drums as umbrellas.

So I left early, before the after–'washing' ball, which was supposed to go on until midnight, with the Orchestra de Fuba, with samba and Pagodage, Ary Dias, Monica Millet, Deco Rangel, and Ser Souto, direct from Bahia. At the Boulevard de Rochechouart it was raining more than ever, and by the time I reached Barbés, it was pouring.

But the Web site works now, and there's more photos of this rare – and annual! – fête imported from Brazil that 'washes' Sacre Cœur. Check out the 7ème lavage du Sacre Cœur, and be sure not to miss it next year. Four days of drum lessons are offered before the event for only 50€.

Soldes d'Eté

The only official date for the summer sales – 'les soldes d'été' – that concerns anybody now is the last day of discount shopping on Saturday, 24. July. If you are still empty handed, you'll to settle for the 'soldes d'hiver' next January.

Headline of the Week

"Partir Tranquille" was the advice of Friday's Le Parisien, announcing as it was the beginning of the annual summer exodus of residents. The SNCF expected to be hauling two million passengers, and the paper asked five racing drivers for holiday driving tips. Elsewhere the paper published a map showing the locations of the radar speed detectors.

While lauding the safety of autoroutes compared to other roads, one Formula One veteran suggested that many of the radars are misplaced by being located on fast, straight stretches where the greatest danger is getting a speeding ticket. Each of the five professional drivers had a specific complaint to make about various rules, but the main thing to remember is 'tolerance' which is common sense.

The Latest Café Metropole Club 'Report'

If your life seems hectic at the moment take a peek at the latest 'Quietest Meeting of the Week' report. It was so low–key that the companion weather report is more likely to leave you sleepless.photo: fiat 500 of the week

The next meeting of the Café Metropole Club will be on Thursday, 8. July. The Saint's Day of the Week will be Saint–Thibaut. This is an unknown – to me – saint overshadowed by several of last week's kings named Thierry. None of the usual sources are more enlightening. The only reference I can find was featured in Metropole article about Châtelet, published in 1997. It says 'Thibaut–aux–Dés, from the name of one–time resident, Thibault Odet, who was treasurer of the Auvergne in 1242.'

Some minor and unimportant details about the club can be found on the 'About the Club' page. The virtual club membership card on this page remains as free as clean fresh air and continues to be easily worth as much. Do not expect any 50 percent–off sale price.

This Was Metropole One Year Ago

Issue 8.28 – 7. July 2003 – the Café Metropole column's headline was, 'More Better Paris Plage.' The 'Au Bistro' column's headline was, 'Yet Another Six–Word 'News' Report.' This issue's feature was titled 'Gone To the Dogs, for Lovers Only.' Laurel Avery contributed 'How Did Van Gogh' Do It?' There were links to the two current Scène columns. The Café Metropole Club update for 10. July was titled, the 'Osaka City of the Week' report. There were four new 'Posters of the Week' and Ric's cartoonphoto: sign, rue du mont cenis of the week was captioned, "Not Going to Norway!" Nothing against Norway, but nobody went there.

This Was Metropole Two Years Ago

Issue 7.27/28 – 1/8. July 2002 – This issue's Café Metropole column was headlined, 'Leftover Confetti and Empty Ping–Pong Balls.' The 'Au Bistro' column fell 'Victim to Flat–Hunting Sports.' The issue's single feature was titled 'Taking a Long View On a Clear Day.' The Café Metropole Club update on 4. July was headlined as a 'Martinique's One Season' report and was followed on 11. July with 'A Bungle of a 'First' report. The two Scènes were titled 'Two Scènes for the Price of One' and 'And Some of It Is Free.' There were four summer–type 'Posters of the Week' and Ric's Cartoon of the Week was captioned, "HEY! It's France! Right on the nose!"

'Countdowns' – Suspension Continues

You can find the exciting 'countdowns,' if you really miss them, in a recent issue by clicking here. Do not, I remind you yet again, forget to subtract 21 days from all count–down dates. All other 'countdowns' that expired weeks ago should be ignored.

Thursday, 5. July 1810

Although I've neglected to have a countdown to the date of the birth of Phineas T. Barnum, it is still a date to remember unless you prefer necrophilia. Should you actually lean this way, the date to remember is 7. April 1891 when Barnum died peacefully atphoto: sign, navettes bus, ver plc italie home in Bridgeport, Connecticut. This second date will not become a countdown item until 87 years from now.

Between the two dates Phineas Taylor Barnum had a life so interesting that his complete biography was too large to fit in the New York Times, so it was cut to 6200 'fit–to–print' words. His obit includes the Tom Thumb story, the Jumbo story, the Jenny Lind story, and a long appreciation of his business skills, which were so formidable that we are still at their mercy. As showmen go, Barnum had no peer, then or now.

This Year Becomes Much Better, Even Shorter

Throughout today there are still 179 days left of this year. This is exactly the same number of 'days left' as at this time in 1789. We could have had the best 187 days of any year in our lives so far if we were paying enough attention. Whichever year you are in, if not in this one, make sure its 5. July has weather better than it is here.
signature, regards, ric

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