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Salon du Chocolat – features more chocolate than you can... well, eat. Parisian, French and European add up to make this the chocolate show of the year. From Thursday, 28. October until Monday, 1. November. Until 22:00 on Friday and until 19:00 on Monday, and otherwise from 10:00 to 20:00. At Paris–Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 45 03 21 26.

Mois de la Photo 2004 – Paris' bi–annual and somewhat elusive 'Mois de la Photo' begins in October, poster: stand up comics, thtr hotel du nordhas most of its exhibitions in November, and continues into December. This year's edition is devoted to history, starting with 1839 to 1914. Two other sections handle the 20th century and a bit beyond. This year's edition is associated with Berlin and Vienna. The official dates are Friday, 29. October to Monday, 29. November. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5–7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint–Paul or Pont–Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Shooting the Chase – is an exhibition of 19th century photos of hunting, some by the well–known photographers Charles Nègre, Adolphe Braun and Horatio Ross, plus some rare daguerréotypes and other remarkable images. This begins on Tuesday, 2. November and continues until Sunday, 19. December. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, Hôtel de Guénégaud, 60. Rue des Archives, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.:01 53 01 92 40.

Three Other Dates To Note:–

Festival d'Automne – from Monday, 13. September until Sunday, 19. December.

Foreign Culture Week – in 35 centres and cultural institutes – from Monday, 27. September to Sunday, 3. October.

Nuit Blanche 2004 – one long night only, Saturday, 2. to Sunday, 3. October. This year expect sound paintings associated with dance. Some organizational thought has been given to locales that can be easily reached on foot, on rollers or on bikes, with three main centres.

Foucault, 24 Hours – starting at noon on Saturday, 2. October and continuing until noon on Sunday, everything about Michel Foucault. Everything! A 'Nuit Blanche' event. Palais de Tokyo, site of contemporary art creation. At 13. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna. InfoTel.: 01 47 23 54 01.

George Sand, une Nature d'Artiste – this exhibition presents a reunion of the writer's friends, Liszt, Marie d'Agoult, Chopin, Musset and Flaubert, plus glimpses of the avant–garde she championed. The exhibition continues until Monday, 29. November. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique – Hôtel Scheffer–Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint–Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 55 31 95 67.

Pain Couture by Jean–Paul Gaultier – this 'enfant terrible' of textiles transforms the iron, steel and glass exhibition space into – bread dough? Whatever, it's a true 'first.' Continuing until Sunday, 10. October. From 12:00 to 20:00, except on Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert–Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 42 18 56 67.

Théâtre d'Ombres, Christian Boltanski – beginning in 1984, Boltanski was inspired by shadows, antiquity, the Middle Ages, photographic impressions, all on show here until Tuesday, 4. January. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint–Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

le Chemin des Warnod – takes you on a voyage to the heart of the Ecole de Paris through over 100 works by Chagall, Foujita, Pascin, Picasso, Soutine, Utrillo, Valadon, Vanposter: il etait une fois l'italie Dongen – all known to the art critic and painter, André Warnod. Until Sunday, 3. October. Except Monday, open daily from 12:30 to 19:00. At Le Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 00.

Signes du Corps – signs of 'body art' from Asia, Africa, the Pacific and the Americas, some as signals of a renaissance of identifying with ancestors. Continuing until next April. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, except Tuesday. Entry charge but free on the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul – Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Kojiro Akagi – painted and drew Paris for 40 years, represented here by 25 paintings and 40 designs. This expo continues until Sunday, 28. November. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Crypte Archéologique, 1. Place du Parvis de Notre–Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 55 42 50 10.

Mosaïculture – is a walking tour of the entirely renovated Serres d'Auteuil, which is a city nursery and palm plantation. Whatever 'Mosaïculture' might be, eight personalities associated with it are on display until Sunday, 10. October. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Serres d'Auteuil, 1–bis, Avenue de la Porte–d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Métro: Porte–d'Auteuil.

Cabanes – are the theme of a walking exhibition in the Parc de Bagatelle until Sunday, 10. October. Find live music of the chamber type with the Octuor de France at the park's Orangerie. Closed on Tuesdays, open from 11:30 to 18:00. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 22 19.

Livres d'Artistes Américains en Europe – 1960–2000. On view until Sunday, 31. October. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art Américain Giverny, 99. Rue Claude Monet, in Giverny. InfoTel.: 02 32 51 94 65.

Glorious! Advertising! Years! – were from 1950 to 1970 in France, in case you didn't notice. The antique ads until Sunday, 14. November. Hours are from 11:00 to 18:00 Tuesday to Friday and from 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends. At the Musée de la Publicité, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais–Royal–Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

'Souvenirs, Souvenirs' – is the title of this visual and audio exhibition celebrating 100 years of popular French songs and music, along with the last century's 'Top 100.' Until Friday, 31. December. From 10:00 to 19:00, and 12:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Closed Mondays. At the François Mitterrand site of the Bibliothèque Nationale, – Tour des Nombres, at the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare or Bibliothèque François Mitterrand. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 49 49.

Premiers Hommes de Chine – see an odyssey of a million years brought to light after a century of discoveries in this 'Year of China' exhibition continuing until Monday, 3. January. Except for Tuesdays and holidays, from 9:45 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 44 05 72 72.

Henri Cartier–Bresson – the 20th century's photographer died recently at the age of 95. The Bibliothèque Nationale has placed hundreds of its collection of HCB photos on view. From 10:00 to 19:00, and 12:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Closed Mondays. At the François Mitterrand site of the Bibliothèque Nationale, at the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare or Bibliothèque François Mitterrand. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 49 49.

50 Ans de Photographie – features Marc Riboud as a witness of the century, withposter: nuit blanche, 2 octobre 100 new prints and 30 other prints from the past. This show continues until Sunday, 17. October. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5 –7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint – Paul or Pont–Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Photographers – continuing until Sunday, 17. October are photo exhibitions by Anne de Vandière, Ernestine Ruben and Philippe Bordas. From 11:00 to 20:00 daily except Monday and Tuesday. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5 – 7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint–Paul or Pont–Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Forum des Images – 6500 movies on view here have a bit of Paris in them. From Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images – Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint–Eustache. Paris 1. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 63 00.

Cinemathèque Française – the official film museum operates in two locations – at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry – and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program, InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Paris Insurgé, Paris Libéré – is an exhibition featuring many items concerning the Libération never displayed before. Continues until 10. April 2005. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris–Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Gaîté. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Détectives Privés Français, Réels et de Fiction – from Vidocq to Nestor Burna. Private dicks, French style. This continues until Saturday, 16. October. From Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the 'BILIPO' – Bibliothèque de Littérature Policière, 48–50. Rue du Cardinal–Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal–Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Mammoth Times – is a big show about very old ancestors of elephants, continuing for a long time, until Monday, 10. January. Closed Tuesdays, the hours are from 10:00 to 18:00, and on Saturdays until 19:00. At the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, at the Muséum National d'Historie Naturelle, 36. rue Geoffroy Saint–Hilaire, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 36 00.

Historical Arms – are presented in a temporary exhibition of the collection of the Musée de l'Armée, which is otherwise closed until the spring of 2005. All the best are on view now and until the end of this year. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00. Closed on Mondays except in July and August. At the Hôtel National des Invalides – Musée de l'Armée, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Latour–Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 38 77.

Histoire des Catacombs – is an exhibition continuing until Sunday, 14. November. Note that the standard 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert – Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert–Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Arcimboldo et les Cinq Sens – kids will be able to distinguish their five senses after seeing some of this Italian painter's now–you–see–it, now–you–don't works. Also visit Il Etait une Fois Léonard. Both on show until the last day of the year. The park is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, but on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Ca C'est du Cirque – is the name for the Cirque Diana Moreno Bormann, which performs all year long on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:00 with a second Saturday show at 20:30 twice a month. Other performances on all holidays. Most likely like real circus. Find it at Rue de la Haie – Coq, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Chapelle or bus 65. InfoTel.: 01 64 05 36 25.

Barbie Tells All – which is merely 5000 years of the history of costumes, which is not bad for a 45 year –old doll. Until Tuesday, 26. October, and from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Ice Skating – Indoors – is open to the public at the POPB, or 'Bercy' for short. The actual name is the Sonja–Henie Patinoire. Open Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from 15:00 to 18:00. On Saturday evening also open from 21:30 to 00:30, with a DJ for skaters who like music. Entry on north, garden side, at 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. InfoTel.: 01 40 02 60 60.

For Roller Folks – the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours – and they are not for the wobbly or faint–hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks – the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Paris Rando Vélo – is another Friday night bike rendez–vous that meetsposter: baku paris, senat, luxembourg at the Hôtel de Ville at 21:30. This group also has a 10:30 session on the third Sunday of every month. Check the Web site for 'yet another rolling rando,' always in sunny weather of course. At the Hôtel de Ville, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville InfoTel.: 06 10 87 05 87.

Roue Libre – this RATP partner has bike rentals, costing not much per hour or day. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. The year–round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne–Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34.

'Paris Respire' – is the Sunday and holidays' program allowing slower folks unpowered by motors to stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas on the Seine–side speedways and other areas around Paris, which are closed to motor traffic until 17:00 on Sundays. This is now a year–round occasion.

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