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A Passport for Fun

photo, opera, palais garnier, traffic

The Opéra, captured between sunshine and automobiles.

And Lots To See

Paris:– Saturday, 5. February 2005:– The city is getting in the swing for having the Olympics here in 2012, even though it has not sewed up its candidature yet. One sign of increased visitor friendliness is the early return of the Batobus shuttle service on the Seine, mentioned at the end of this column.

I am not sure if the new 'Paris City Passport' for 5€ is a wonderful deal, but it's new andposter, paris city passport seems to offer a lot. You get a brochure that is a city guide and it includes '300€–worth' of reductions, good for discounts at some museums and monuments, for some excursions, for shopping, services, and some high–life locations.

For an extra 5€ you can have a one–day two–zone transport ticket. This sounds identical to the RATP's 'Mobilis' ticket, but is 30 cents cheaper. This ticket is good for one day only, but the 'Passport' is good for a year, and you can pass it along to friends to use up. You can buy the 'Passport' online or pick one up at any of the city's tourist information locations.

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Richard Linder – Adults Only – celebrate the reopening of this museum with an exhibition of the works of this Euro–American artist, having his firstposter, expo jean gourmelin, atelier an girard show since his retrospective in 1974. To begin on Tuesday, 15. February, to last until 12. June. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique – Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint–Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 55 31 95 67.

Mario Giacomelli, Photographer – the néo–réalist of the 20th century, in the photographer's unmistakable style. This continues until Sunday, 24. April. Except Monday, from 10:00 to 19:00, and from 12:00 to 19:00 on Sunday. At the Richelieu branch of the Bibliothèque Nationale, 58. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 59 59.poster, expo irene benavente, galerie arcade colette

Irene Benavente, Art Photographer – does award–winning photos of flowers so real that they look like paintings, as you will see in her first exhibition in Paris. Beginning on Tuesday, 1. March, until Tuesday, 15. March. Except Sunday and Monday, from 14:30 to 19:00. At the Galerie Arcade Colette, in the Jardins du Palais Royal, 155. Galerie de Valois and 17. Rue de Valois, Paris 1. Métro: Palais–Royal. InfoTel.: 01 42 86 05 38.

Pierre Choumoff – born in Russia, Pierre Choumoff set up his photo atelier in Paris in 1911, and photographed Prokofiev, Foujita, Bourdelle, Kessel, Léger as well as Rodin. Until Sunday, 3. April. Open in winter from 9:30 to 16:45, but closed on Monday. Open to 17:45 after 1. April. At the Musée Rodin, 77. Rue de Varenne, Paris 7. Métro: Varennes. InfoTel.: 01 44 18 61 10.

Claude Rutault – takes over from Luciano Fabro to show a contemporary exhibit of works, around the theme of 'definition.' On view until Sunday, 15. May. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine–Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Like Dreams, Drawing – an exhibition that confronts modern and contemporary drawings with the 16th and 17th century works of the Italian school, therefore divided between the Louvre's Arts Graphics and the Centre Pompidou's Galerie d'Art Graphique. Set to start on Wednesday, 16. February and continue until Monday, 16. May. From 11:00 to 21:00 daily except on Tuesdays, and on Thursdays until 23:00. At the Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Les Juifs dans la Grande Guerre – a historical look back at the Jewish presence in World War 1. This begins on Wednesday, 16. February and continues until Sunday, 29. May. Except Saturdays, from 11:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Closed 1. May. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint–Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Trésors de Ferveur – beginning in the 17th century nuns began creating elaborate papers for decorating shrines. Largely ignored, these rare treasures are on view in this exhibition. This continues until Saturday, 16. April. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:20 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont–Marie InfoTel.:01 42 78 14 60.

Affiches de Festivals – this interesting poster gallery starts the new year with a collection of high quality festival posters. This expo–sale continues untilposter, expo richard linder, mus vie romantique the end of March. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops worth a glance.

Jean Gourmelin – is always seeking the perfect pencil, a super–pencil. This expo shows what he found to use. From now until Monday, 28. February. From Tuesday to Friday, from 13:00 to 19:00. On Saturday, per request. At the Atelier An–Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Yann Lestrat – an exhibition of paintings with installations, inviting you to plunge in. Until Sunday, 13. March. Open from Tuesday to Friday from 12:00 to 19:00, and on weekends from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Criée, Place Honoré Commeurec, Halles Centrales, in Rennes. InfoTel.: 02 99 78 18 20.

30 Masterpieces – on exceptional loan from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this exhibition of Islamic arts should not be missed. Continuing until Monday,poster, 50 films coreens, cinematique 25. April. Open from 9:00 to 17:30, and until 21:30 on Monday and Wednesday. Closed Tuesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais–Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Psy(k)é – is an exhibition of 200 psychedelic posters, dating from the '60s and '70s that sum up a generation jolted by rock and individual liberty. This continues until Sunday, 27. March. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00 weekdays, from 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and from 10:00 to 21:00 on Wednesdays. At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais–Royal–Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Pharaoh – is an exhibition about who the Pharaohs were, with material from the Palazzo Grassi in Venice, and from the Louvre's collections. On view until Sunday, 10. April 2005. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés–Saint–Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Trésors de la Fondation Napoléon – classic art from Napoleon's private collection at the Imperial court. Continuing until Sunday, 3. April 2005. From 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Jacquemart – Andre, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 45 62 11 59.

Napoléon – of Propaganda and Legend – this is about Napoléonposter, thtr marionettes arranging his own legend, for his time and ours. To continue until Monday, 6. June 2005. Except Tuesdays, open Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 12:30 and from 14:00 to 17:30, and from 14:00 to 17:35 on Saturday and Sunday. At the Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Rohan, 87. Rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau, Hôtel de Ville or Saint–Paul. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Bartholdi, and the Builders of Liberty – for the centennial of Bartholdi's death, an exhibition about the building of the Statue of Liberty, placed in New York's harbor in October of 1886. Continuing until Sunday, 6. March. Open daily except Mondays and holidays, from 10:00 to 18:00, on Thursdays until 21:30. At the Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 00.

Signes du Corps – signs of 'body art' from Asia, Africa, the Pacific and the Americas, some as signals of a renaissance of identifying with ancestors. Until Sunday, 3. April 2005. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00, except Tuesday. Entry charge but free on the last Wednesday of the month. At the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul–Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile, Victor Hugo or Kléber. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Le Ciel Dans un Tapis – shows 56 carpets from the 15th to 18th centuries, from Egypt, Turkey and Persia, from the collections of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, Berlin's Museum für Islamische Kunst and the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation in Lisbon. On view until Thursday, 31. March. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés–Saint–Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Imari – an exhibition of porcelain objects created for the Shoguns and for European aristocracy in the 17th century shows different tastes and styles. Until Saturday, 2. April. Open from 10:00 to 18:00, and until 21:30 on Thursdays. Closed Sunday and Monday. At the Maison de la Culture du Japon, 101 bis, Quai Branly, Paris 15. Métro: Bir–Hakeim. InfoTel.: 01 44 37 95 01.

Le Monde de Franquin – if you think comics are silly, here are some full of inventions, featured in 250 original comics pages shown here in a science museum notposter, affiches festivals, gal grand monde just for kids. On view until 30. August 2005.. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin–Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Stagecoaches and Robbers – from the times of the Louis,' the old days of the Poste in France, as told in stamps and other objects. For stamp fans until Saturday, 16. April. From 10:00 to 18:00, except Sundays and holidays. At the Musée de la Poste, 34. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 42 79 24 24.

Alberto Giacometti–Henri Cartier Bresson. – together in a photo exhibit, continuing until Sunday, 27. March. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 18:30, until 20:30 on Wednesdays, and from 11:00 to 18:45 on Saturdays. Evenings free. At the Fondation Henri Cartier–Bresson, 2. Impasse Lebouis, Paris 14. Métro: Gaïté. InfoTel.: 01 56 80 27 00.<</P>

Stephen Shore – The Biographical Landscape – to be seen in Paris for the first time, showing influences of Warhol's '60s, Pop Art, Kerouac's writing and 'Easy Rider,' as well as photos by Bernd and Hilla Becher. To continue until Sunday, 20. March. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Jeu de Paume's Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint–Paul. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Photographies du Louvre – by Patrick Faigenbaum and his atelier team consisting of Gabriel Costes, Antonin Etard, Elisabeth Gerl, Elin Jakobsdottir, Anne–Laureposter, spectacles vivants, centre pompidou Perrin, Claire Soton, Julia Staniszewska and Lise Terdjman. Part one, until March, features the museum, and part two, until May, exhibits three aspects of Patrick Faigenbaum's own works. Until Tuesday, 31. May. Open from 9:00 to 17:30, and until 21:30 on Monday and Wednesday. Closed Tuesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Aile Sully–Salle de la Maquette. Principal entry from the Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais–Royal. InfoTel.:01 44 78 75 26.

Les Ateliers de Bouchard – an exhibition of photos of Bouchard at work at the Villa Médicis in Rome, in Montparnasse and at Auteuil. Exhibition continues until Friday, 27. May 2005. Open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00, including 1. January. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Crad'Expo – subtitled as the 'Impolite Science of the Body,' this is a fantastic show about the real us, with smells and sound effects, designed to be appreciated more by kids than their parents. Continuing until Sunday, 8. May. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin–Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Paris Insurgé, Paris Libéré – is an exhibition featuring many items concerning the Libération never displayed before. Continues until Sunday,10. April. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris– Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Gaîté. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Historical Arms – are presented in a temporary exhibition of the collection of the Musée de l'Armée, which is otherwise closed until later this spring. All the best are on view until the end of this year. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00. Closed on Mondays except in July and August. At the Hôtel National des Invalides – Musée de l'Armée, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Latour–Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 38 77.

There were three skating rinks this year. The new one was on the first floor of the Tour Eiffel. Not big but it's high. The skate rental is 5€, which is all it costs at the Hôtel de Ville and the rink in front of the Gare de Montparnasse, both of which are otherwise free. Weekdays usually from 12:00, and weekends from 9:00. Night skating to midnight or to 22:00 on Sunday. The rinks continue until 13. March.

Circus Alexis Gruss – brand new old–fashioned circus, with all the trimmings. Continuing until Sunday, 27. February. On Wednesday at 14:00, Saturday at 14:00 and 20:30, and Sunday at 14:00 and 17:15. Daily at 14:00 during school holidays. Every Friday in December at 20:30, including 24. December. At the Pelouse de Saint–Cloud, Porte de Auteuil, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.:01 40 36 08 00.

Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione – see the new show 'Bravo,' which celebrates the 70th anniversary of this traditional but modern, real circus. Has everything except Barnum. Shows are at 14:00 and 17:00 on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday and at 20:30 on Tuesday and Friday, and at 14:00 on all school holidays. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris 11. Métro: Filles du Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 28 81.

Arcimboldo et les Cinq Sens – kids will be able to distinguish their five senses after seeing some of this Italian painter's now–you–see–it, now–you–don't works. Also visit Il Etait une Fois Léonard. Arcimboldo continues until May. The park is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, but on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Batobus – has resumed its transport service on the Seine, following its usual loop from the Tour Eiffel to the upstream end of the Ile Saint–Louis, makingposter, monsieur chasse, thtr athenee eight stops. Until 17. March, from 10:30 to 16:30. Then from 10:00 to 19:00 until 21. April when the full season starts. Until the end of September, the Batobus cruises its loops until 22:00, with 15 to 30 minutes between boats.

Catacombes – are closed for renovations until the sometime in the late spring. Catacombes de Paris, 1. Place Denfert Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert–Rochereau InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

For Roller Folks – the free Friday night 'roller rando' around Paris goes on all year, starting at 22:00 on Fridays, from in front of the Gare Montparnasse. Each complete tour takes about three hours – and they are not for the wobbly or faint–hearted. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 43 36 89 81.

More For Roller Folks – the free Sunday afternoon 'other roller rando' around Paris goes on all year too, but starts at 14:30 on Sundays from the Place de la Bastille. Complete tours take about three hours, but are not so taxing as the night tours. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 44 54 07 44.

Paris Rando Vélo – is another Friday night bike rendez–vous that meets at the Hôtel de Ville at 21:30. This group also has a 10:30 session on the third Sunday of every month. Check the Web site for 'yet another rolling rando,' always in sunny weather of course. At the Hôtel de Ville, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville InfoTel.: 06 10 87 05 87.

Roue Libre – this RATP partner has bike rentals, costing not much per hour or day. Both complete accessories and insurance are available. The year–round HQ is open from 9:00 to 19:00 daily, at 1. Passage Mondétour in Les Halles. Métro: Les Halles or Etienne–Marcel. InfoTel.: 08 00 44 15 34.

'Paris Respire' – is the Sunday and holidays' program allowing slower folks unpowered by motors to stroll and roll around without worrying about the automobilistas on the Seine–side speedways and other areas around Paris, which are closed to motor traffic until 18:00 on Sundays. This is now a year–round perk for strollers.

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